Is it really necessary to remove the DISA valve, Throttle Body, ICV, etc stuff under the intake manifold just to remove the manifold? Seems to me just removing the stuff on the top of the manifold such as the fuel rail etc to access the manifold bolts and then remove the lower manifold bolt that the manifold should be easily removed. From there the coolant lines could be removed and CCV replaced if necessary.
DRE97
I don't think it's necessary to remove the DISA valve or idle air valve. The manifold lifts up, so you don't need much clearance on the side.
Removing the throttle body might give easier access to the bottom bolt. But if you can work around it, you should be fine.
Also note, you can leave the CCV attached to the intake. Just disconnect the hoses to the cam cover and dipstick tube.
Removing the throttle body might give easier access to the bottom bolt. But if you can work around it, you should be fine.
Also note, you can leave the CCV attached to the intake. Just disconnect the hoses to the cam cover and dipstick tube.
You could leave the IAC and DISA, but I would just remove it all:
1. It is really hard to get your hands back to detach the clip that holds the fuel line and the plugs for the SAP solenoid. For the cost of four screws and 3 minutes, why torture yourself?
2. Testing the DISA seal and vacuum as well as cleaning the IAC are integral tasks for the intake refresh. If they are original, you really should do these.
3. You need to detach the harness junction box to get access to the intake bottom bolt (if I remember correctly) and it is hard to do without clearing the area.
Take a look at the intake guide in my signature. It has a list of tasks and torque values for intake removal and refresh.
1. It is really hard to get your hands back to detach the clip that holds the fuel line and the plugs for the SAP solenoid. For the cost of four screws and 3 minutes, why torture yourself?
2. Testing the DISA seal and vacuum as well as cleaning the IAC are integral tasks for the intake refresh. If they are original, you really should do these.
3. You need to detach the harness junction box to get access to the intake bottom bolt (if I remember correctly) and it is hard to do without clearing the area.
Take a look at the intake guide in my signature. It has a list of tasks and torque values for intake removal and refresh.
Archbid and others, I think what I am really asking is:
Would it be easier to remove the intake manifold first then access the other items under the manifold for a refresh. Watching the videos it appears a lot of time and effort is made trying to access items under the manifold before actually removing the manifold. With the manifold out of the way access would be significantly easier.
I am planning on doing this job within the next few weeks that is why I am sooo interested.
Would it be easier to remove the intake manifold first then access the other items under the manifold for a refresh. Watching the videos it appears a lot of time and effort is made trying to access items under the manifold before actually removing the manifold. With the manifold out of the way access would be significantly easier.
I am planning on doing this job within the next few weeks that is why I am sooo interested.
You really should just take it all off. It is very hard to get to the bottom bolt that holds the intake down without removing the throttle body, and honestly removing the IAC/disa/throttle body are not hard at all. You will be more frustrated by all the crap that the intake catches on when you are pulling it out like the zip tie on the back that holds the wires.
Removing the DISA helps you gain access to other fasteners needed for the end result, I found it unnecessary to remove the IVC but, necessary to remove the throttle body. Best thing to do is look at what you are about to remove first to see if it will give you better access to something else or not. Good Luck
Well, you can remove the intake manifold with everything still attached on it, if you could remove these few parts first:
1)The bottom 16mm not by reaching up from under the car.
2) The fuel rail quick disconnect near the firewall.
3) The coolant temperature sensor connector on the head near #6 cylinder
4) oil pressure, temperature, alternator signal connectors
5) The big fat cable loom from junction box to the DME box, as the junction box is bolted to the intake.
6) all the intake port nuts (injectors harness needs to be removed for access to the nuts).
7) fuel evaporators valve hose
8) fuel regulator vacuum pipe
9) brake booster hose end at the booster can
10) SAP vac pipe off the short rubber hose.
Give it a try and let us know.
1)The bottom 16mm not by reaching up from under the car.
2) The fuel rail quick disconnect near the firewall.
3) The coolant temperature sensor connector on the head near #6 cylinder
4) oil pressure, temperature, alternator signal connectors
5) The big fat cable loom from junction box to the DME box, as the junction box is bolted to the intake.
6) all the intake port nuts (injectors harness needs to be removed for access to the nuts).
7) fuel evaporators valve hose
8) fuel regulator vacuum pipe
9) brake booster hose end at the booster can
10) SAP vac pipe off the short rubber hose.
Give it a try and let us know.
FWIW, there’s a good 50skid video on youtube about removing the intake manifold to replace the CCV system. It’s titled something like CCV replacement long version. I think it helps a lot to see it done and see everything there is to disconnect before you do it yourself - there’s a couple small connectors and things that need to be removed that you can’t get your eyes on.
I would leave the ICV attached, as you have to fight to get it off the very tight rubber grommet and I don't want to disturb for fear of vac leaking, and the ICV doesn't block anything to getting to the 16mm nut on the manifold lower leg. If if you torn the 20 yrs old ICV rubber grommet?
The TB is easy to remove after removing four 10mm bolts.
No need to unplug the coolant temperature, just swing the injectors harness over #6 cylinder and rest it there. 4 yrs older and getting smarter.
My new version of how to:
Now just lift the whole manifold out working on side of left fender.
This should not take more than 2 hrs.
Important: before reconnecting the fuel hose to the rail, put the hose end in a bottle and turn the key on to prime the pump, two times minimum, this flushes out the debris that fell inside the hose which will cause the leaking at the connector, or clog up the injectors.
- disconnect the fat black cable off the front jumper post
- remove fresh air filter tray
- remove beauty cover over the fuel rail, not the one over the VC
- remove injectors harness: use small pick, lift up and push the small wire clip down on only one side of the injector connectors. You choose which side to of the clip to push (don't try the side close to the injector bracket as you can't do). unplug the vanos intake solenoid and the intake air temp sensor connectors. Swing the harness over #6 cylinder with the coolant temp sensor attached.
- loosen and blow off the debris around the intake ports to avoid debris falling inside engine during removal
- remove 11mm nuts around the intake ports, total 9 nuts
- remove air box, upper boot, DISA (held by two bolts) to get access to the lower boot two hose clamps, remove 13mm bolt holding the dipstick, then push it away for room, loosen the boot clamps and reach down to bottom lip of boot and with fingers pull the lip off the TB. It's tight but this is the way. Pry the boot off the ICV. Don't remove ICV but unplug the cable off it. Remove the hoses off the F connector but don't pull F off the boot to avoid damaging the boot.
- remove TB (4 10mm bolts), unplug the cable off.
- Pry the suction jet pump hose off the brake booster big can so you don't need to disconnect at the jet pump. remove the panel that cover the brake DSC by twisting the 2 plastic quick disconnect things.
- reach down and remove the 16mm nut holding manifold lower leg. You might need to remove the fat cable going from starter to alt if it's blocking the manifold lower leg from being lifted up. I re-routed this cable below the coolant return pipe so it's out of the way for future works.
- reach in and by feel, remove the SAP control valve connector, unplug the SAP vac pipe, disconnect the fuel hose Quick Disconnect to the fuel rail.
- unplug Evap valve cable, unplug its hose off the connector on the left fender.
- unplug the CCV drain hose
Now just lift the whole manifold out working on side of left fender.
This should not take more than 2 hrs.
Important: before reconnecting the fuel hose to the rail, put the hose end in a bottle and turn the key on to prime the pump, two times minimum, this flushes out the debris that fell inside the hose which will cause the leaking at the connector, or clog up the injectors.
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