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Intake Manifold Is Off! - Now to fix the hard pipes

9K views 110 replies 20 participants last post by  fanatichuman 
#1 ·
Finally got the manifold off and mostly followed the ShopLife video on how to do it. Now I can start replacing the coolant and heater hard plastic pipes.

Lessons learned with taking off the intake manifold:
1) Have instructions so you can remember how to put it all back together
2) The last manifold nut in the back was hard to take off because I didn't remove the fuel rail
3) Even after vacuuming the areas near the intake ports I found debris near the holes so I covered them up as soon as I removed the manifold but not fully removed
4) The intake manifold gasket is hard to get out and it is breaking while I try to pull it out.

What is the best way to clean the intake manifold and block? I'm going to put aluminum foil over the CCV pipe and fuel hose to make sure nothing gets in them.
 

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#2 ·
With all the wires, starter and alternator there, near the block., I would not go crazy with a a lot of water and/or a pressure washer.

After you remove both coolant pipes, I would use some diluted simple green on the engine block and maybe a garden sprayer to carefully rinse off. Do a section at a time.

I would not clean the inside of the intake. Wipe down the outside if you want to.
 
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#5 ·
With all the wires, starter and alternator there, near the block., I would not go crazy with a a lot of water and/or a pressure washer.

After you remove both coolant pipes, I would use some diluted simple green on the engine block and maybe a garden sprayer to carefully rinse off. Do a section at a time.

I would not clean the inside of the intake. Wipe down the outside if you want to.
Sounds like a plan! :)
 
#6 ·
I just kept the fuel rail attached and remove the fuel line once I got the IM off the block a little.
 
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#7 ·
I did use compressed air and vacuumed and dug a little with my screw driver. There was some debris when I changed out the CCV system a few years ago but vacuumed most of it up.
 
#8 ·
I'm not understanding why you didn't remove the fuel rail and disconnect the fuel line before you removed the intake manifold. IMHO, you've made your life much more difficult when you did that. If you're worried about putting the last nut back (in your other thread), remove the fuel rail so you have access. Problem solved.

Stick a shop vac with a crevice tool into the intake runners on the block side when you reinstall the intake manifold just in case something fell in.
I think 10 posts ago it was recommended that you change the upper and lower o-rings to the injectors. If you decide to do that, my personal preference is the label the injectors so they go back in the same sequence or better yet, do them one-at-a-time so they don't get mixed up. Having said that, I'm sure others will say it doesn't matter where they go back in :)
I tried P21 per MrMCar's recommendation to clean the engine. Holy crap I was impressed.
Don't forget the missing vacuum hose to your vacuum canister. It goes from the canister to a port on your firewall. 3.5mm ID vacuum hose.
 
#9 ·
I'm not understanding why you didn't remove the fuel rail and disconnect the fuel line before you removed the intake manifold. IMHO, you've made your life much more difficult when you did that. If you're worried about putting the last nut back (in your other thread), remove the fuel rail so you have access. Problem solved.

Stick a shop vac with a crevice tool into the intake runners on the block side when you reinstall the intake manifold just in case something fell in.
I think 10 posts ago it was recommended that you change the upper and lower o-rings to the injectors. If you decide to do that, my personal preference is the label the injectors so they go back in the same sequence or better yet, do them one-at-a-time so they don't get mixed up. Having said that, I'm sure others will say it doesn't matter where they go back in :)
I tried P21 per MrMCar's recommendation to clean the engine. Holy crap I was impressed.
Don't forget the missing vacuum hose to your vacuum canister. It goes from the canister to a port on your firewall. 3.5mm ID vacuum hose.
I didn't remove the fuel rail to save time and not to mess with the injectors. I was following the ShopLife video. I may have to take the fuel rail off because of that last nut on the intake manifold.

Good idea to shop vac the intake runners before reinstalling.

I wasn't planning on changing the o-rings on the injectors since I wasn't taking them out but now I may have to.
Is this a good kit with Using Viton Fluoropolymer O-rings? $16.99 with Two Day Prime Shipping

Or should I just get the ones at FCP Euro?
$10.14 for 6 BMW Fuel Injector O-Ring (9.2 x 2.8mm) - Elring 13641437486
$5.36 for 6 Audi BMW Mini Porsche Fuel Injector O-Ring - Elring 893.889

Never heard of P21. Is the one you got?
$26.29 P21S 13001R Auto Wash Refill, 1000 ml

What missing vacuum hose to the vacuum canister? Do you have a picture or diagram?
 
#17 ·
I didn't remove the fuel rail to save time and not to mess with the injectors. I was following the ShopLife video. I may have to take the fuel rail off because of that last nut on the intake manifold.

Good idea to shop vac the intake runners before reinstalling.

I wasn't planning on changing the o-rings on the injectors since I wasn't taking them out but now I may have to.
Is this a good kit with Using Viton Fluoropolymer O-rings? $16.99 with Two Day Prime Shipping

Or should I just get the ones at FCP Euro?
$10.14 for 6 BMW Fuel Injector O-Ring (9.2 x 2.8mm) - Elring 13641437486
$5.36 for 6 Audi BMW Mini Porsche Fuel Injector O-Ring - Elring 893.889

Never heard of P21. Is the one you got?
$26.29 P21S 13001R Auto Wash Refill, 1000 ml

What missing vacuum hose to the vacuum canister? Do you have a picture or diagram?
I bought my injector o-rings from FCP Euro. I know nothing about the ones you linked from Amazon. It's really up to you to decide what you want to do.

Yes, that's the P21 that I bought. Worked well for me. You can of course use any of the 1000's of engine degreaser that you can buy :) and I'm sure they would work just fine.

This is the vacuum canister that I was referring to. Note the vacuum hose that's broken off on the left side of the picture? This vacuum canister takes vacuum from the back of the intake manifold and sends it to a connection on the firewall that is to the left and maybe 10 inches down from the brake booster. This vacuum is used to open/close the exhaust flap. You may of course simply not use this and plug the vacuum connection on the back of the intake manifold.

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#13 ·
That's the plan! :)
 
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#19 ·
I don't see this come up enough but i is worth mentioning that the old plastic coolant hoses are brittle and will likely crumble when you pull them out, possibly to the point that an o-ring stays behind. You'll want to inspect your old pipe ends to make sure they're intact and that you got the o-ring out. If not you'll need a pick to fish out the o-ring and any remaining pieces of coolant pipe that were left behind.
 
#21 ·
I'm ready to pick away! I'm cleaning everything before taking it all out.
 
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#28 ·
Not looking forward to putting everything together! lol
 
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#30 ·
Decided to clean the engine a little before I start taking off the hard pipes. It looks better but not prefect.

Is the ports section clean enough to put the intake manifold back on? There shouldn't be an oily residue but there are stains on it.

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#32 ·
I did remove the bottom banjo bolt to get access to the pipe. It still broke inside the hole! lol
 
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#35 ·
Just removed the hard pipes! Of course the part inside the block were broken and corroded. I had trouble with the bottom pipe and the hose connector. I pulled up on the clip and it wouldn't pull or twist off. Luckily I bought new hoses.

Tomorrow I start digging out the pieces of the of the old pipe in the block. Should I use a pick with a 90 degree angle to pull the stuff out? Once I get all the stuff out, I'll put a ball of masking tape inside and sand it smooth.
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#64 · (Edited)
Should I use a pick with a 90 degree angle to pull the stuff out?
Should not. Use a straight pick instead, and stab the rotten pipe lengthwise, then tilt the pick to pull the pipe into its center, and this will break a good piece off without damaging the aluminum hole. Keep stab and tilt until they all gone, then use the sharp edge of a broken hard plastic rod (or chopstick) to rub out the hole smooth and be safe.
 
#36 ·
You can use either a 90 degree pick or a hooked pick tool...the hooked tool might be less risky in terms of scratching the bore.

sink the pick tool into a beefy chunk of plastic and pull. It will likely come out in pieces.

I clean it out with a scotchbriite pad on a dremel...but emery cloth works well. I might also LIGHTLY use a plumbers copper pipe brush (used to prep copper pipes for soldering).

BTW - after Installing my pipes but before I reinstall intake, I connect all of the cooling system parts and install a gutted thermostat. I then fill with distilled water - don't worry about bleeding - and add 20 psi (no more) of compressed air thru the bleed screw. Then I look for leaks at all water pipe connections. This has saved me a few times. You don't want to re-do this job because of a rolled o-ring.
 
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#37 ·
Not sure I have a hooked pick tool. I have the green scotchbrite pad but I was planning on using some sand paper.

I was planning on pressure testing the system once I got my hard pipes and new hoses on with 15 psi. :)
 
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#38 ·
Think how much cash you are saving doing this yourself...Go buy a good set of pick tools including a hooked pick...The scotchbrite wheel I was referring to is Dremel attachment 512E fine grit buffing pads. If you already have a dremel, these might be a big help.
 
#39 ·
The pick tool works. However many get somewhat aggressive when trying to pull the broken off bits in any blind hole.
The trick is NOT to gouge/scratch the outer perimeter of the round hole (It's aluminum folks! and the tool is steel.) so that a scribe mark remains behind.

If it's deep enough, could be well the source of a future leak as a small amount of pressurized coolant follows past the O Rings down the scratch you placed in there in your zeal to remove the broken pipe.

O Rings work very well inside a clean round hole. They do NOT work well in filling a small scratch inside that hole.
So be careful and check prior so buttoning it all up.
FYI.
 
#52 ·
Red RTV?
 
#42 ·
I would say no...Mine are always quite a bit cleaner than that. I think I see old pipe residue in your photos...Is it smooth to the touch? It doesn't look it. I might have a little staining on mine, but a lot less than I see here.

I uses brake cleaner, a pipe cleaner (round wire brush on a handle) , emery cloth, and a scotch brite buffing wheel on a dremel.
 
#49 ·
#57 ·
There are loose parts in the runners that are held in place by the intake gasket. Don't lose one... couldn't find a part number for a replacement. Also, watch Chris Fix video on detailing. All you need are wet wipes, a few brushes, and soapy water in a spray bottle to clean that block. I've thrown up a photo of mine. Think about changing your starter while you're there. Also the black and white valve in the rear of the intake is a one-way valve. Make sure you keep the orientation correct. I took the time to use zip ties to color code the wire connections. Helps for the next install.
 

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#58 ·
I noticed this plastic pieces where the bolt goes through can fall out. I didn't notice it until I had taken my old gasket out and one fell out when I was moving the intake manifold around.

This Chris Fix Video? You block looks like new!

I thought about changing my starter until I saw the price and how much work it was. I'll change it when it starts to give me trouble.

I kept the orientation correct because I did one hose at a time. lol

What exactly did you do with the zip ties?
 
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#59 ·
I just recently did this on my car. Also replaced the water pump and thermostat, so had those out when I did the hard lines. I put a rag in behind the hard line holes to help catch any small bits. Glad I did because as careful as I was there were still small bits of plastic that fell into the rags. Hopefully I minimized anything getting into the system. This is a grand 'ol job that I wouldn't look forward to doing again. Also had the oil filter housing and power steering reservoir out for better access.
 
#70 ·
I'm trying to decide if I'm going to use red RTV after reading this thread. Some people used it without issues and others don't recommend it since it could fall apart and clog up the system. Thoughts?

They also recommend taking the water pump and flushing with distilled water to see if any pieces were left behind, I don't think so but I'm not absolutely sure. Did anyone do this?
 
#71 ·
I'm trying to decide if I'm going to use red RTV after reading this thread. Some people used it without issues and others don't recommend it since it could fall apart and clog up the system. Thoughts?
Any sealant or RTV is fine. The trick is have a thin coating on the bore (as the pipe is inserted into the bore, the O-ring will push the excess glue into the head, so just use a thin layer put more between the two O-rings, and insert the pipe immediately when the sealant still wet).
 
#76 ·
As far as putting RTV in the bore, do I pu a thin coat on the entire length of the bore?
 
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#77 · (Edited)
A thin coat on the bore to cover up to where the inner O-ring will reach. There will be just a thin bead stuck to the inner side of the inner O-ring.
Just think about what if it leak after the intake manifold installed back and driving couple days later? I won't take the risk of not using RTV in this case.
Also, after coating the RTV then immediately install the pipe and not wait for it to set.
 
#82 ·
Pipes are now installed with some red RTV just in case!

I'll pressure test the cooling system at noon tomorrow after the RTV has had 24 hours to cure.

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#83 ·
Pressured tested the system and it looks like it went down a little after 26 minutes.

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#85 ·
Looks like it lost 1.5 psi after two hours. I believe that is pretty normal. :)

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