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Intake Manifold Is Off! - Now to fix the hard pipes

7751 Views 110 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  fanatichuman
10
Finally got the manifold off and mostly followed the ShopLife video on how to do it. Now I can start replacing the coolant and heater hard plastic pipes.

Lessons learned with taking off the intake manifold:
1) Have instructions so you can remember how to put it all back together
2) The last manifold nut in the back was hard to take off because I didn't remove the fuel rail
3) Even after vacuuming the areas near the intake ports I found debris near the holes so I covered them up as soon as I removed the manifold but not fully removed
4) The intake manifold gasket is hard to get out and it is breaking while I try to pull it out.

What is the best way to clean the intake manifold and block? I'm going to put aluminum foil over the CCV pipe and fuel hose to make sure nothing gets in them.

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The nipple on the vacuum canister is fine. It just has crusty bits from the old hose. Either run a short length of new hose from the manifold to that nipple or cap the nipple on the manifold. If you do that you may as well just remove the vacuum canister as it will no longer function.

I would consider replacing your crankshaft sensor if it is original. It is probably fine, but they do fail and it is so much easier with everything out of the way.

If you still need a small vacuum cap and can wait a few days let me know. I have a few silicon ones that will not rot like the bmw ones.
I'm capping both the vacuum canister and the back of the intake manifold. I will have to pass on the crankshaft sensor since I'm running out of time.
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Pipes are now installed with some red RTV just in case!

I'll pressure test the cooling system at noon tomorrow after the RTV has had 24 hours to cure.

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Pressured tested the system and it looks like it went down a little after 26 minutes.

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I'm trying to decide if I'm going to use red RTV after reading this thread. Some people used it without issues and others don't recommend it since it could fall apart and clog up the system. Thoughts?

They also recommend taking the water pump and flushing with distilled water to see if any pieces were left behind, I don't think so but I'm not absolutely sure. Did anyone do this?
would suggest u don’t bother w rtf.just make sure the o rings fit snug and your pressing it in evenly and you run it home
Looks like it lost 1.5 psi after two hours. I believe that is pretty normal. :)

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I would say no...Mine are always quite a bit cleaner than that. I think I see old pipe residue in your photos...Is it smooth to the touch? It doesn't look it. I might have a little staining on mine, but a lot less than I see here.

I uses brake cleaner, a pipe cleaner (round wire brush on a handle) , emery cloth, and a scotch brite buffing wheel on a dremel.
It pains me to even type this, but I was attempting to use the Dremel with the buffing wheel to do this, and while doing so the buffing wheel fell off and inside the port going into the block (Not the one directly above the water pump). I was able to retrieve the buffing wheel, but not the screw or 2 small washers which secured it.
If you might have any ideas as to how I might retrieve them (magnet didn’t work, and unable to locate with inspection camera) it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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It pains me to even type this, but I was attempting to use the Dremel with the buffing wheel to do this, and while doing so the buffing wheel fell off and inside the port going into the block (Not the one directly above the water pump). I was able to retrieve the buffing wheel, but not the screw or 2 small washers which secured it.
If you might have any ideas as to how I might retrieve them (magnet didn’t work, and unable to locate with inspection camera) it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
:oops: :oops: :oops:
I almost used a dremel but then decided to use 500 and 1000 grit sandpaper on a 16 mm deep socket.

Hope you retrieve the screw and two washers. I used a shop vac on the bores to retrieve the broken plastic pieces from the pipe. Not sure if it will work for washers and a screw but worth a shot. I put it right up to the bore for 3 seconds and sucked coolant out of it.
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It pains me to even type this, but I was attempting to use the Dremel with the buffing wheel to do this, and while doing so the buffing wheel fell off and inside the port going into the block (Not the one directly above the water pump). I was able to retrieve the buffing wheel, but not the screw or 2 small washers which secured it.
If you might have any ideas as to how I might retrieve them (magnet didn’t work, and unable to locate with inspection camera) it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
No power tool for me in doing this; just a broken plastic chopstick and elbow grease, and not even sandpaper.
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Of you want to clean the intake manifold, remove everything from it and submerge it into petrol. That way you can remove the oily residue
It pains me to even type this, but I was attempting to use the Dremel with the buffing wheel to do this, and while doing so the buffing wheel fell off and inside the port going into the block (Not the one directly above the water pump). I was able to retrieve the buffing wheel, but not the screw or 2 small washers which secured it.
If you might have any ideas as to how I might retrieve them (magnet didn’t work, and unable to locate with inspection camera) it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
It pains me to read this...Sorry to hear...Those dremel head screws are a little weak..
Any chance they spun off while the buffing wheel was outside the holes?

I would keep trying magnets and your remote camera and a shop vac with a smaller, flexible hose to try and suck it out. If all that fails, you should become familiar with the M54 (nearly identical to the M52tu) coolant diagram below. It appears that port seems to go to the heater core...maybe you can insert a hose somewhere and try to flush it out.
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Unfortunately I am pretty sure the screw and washers were intact and fell off inside the engine.
I very much appreciate you providing this diagram. I will take another shot at it tomorrow with the shop vac and magnets. As part of this overhaul, I just replaced the heater core as well, so I will look into that As well.

again thanks very much for taking the time to respond…
:oops: :oops: :oops:
I almost used a dremel but then decided to use 500 and 1000 grit sandpaper on a 16 mm deep socket.

Hope you retrieve the screw and two washers. I used a shop vac on the bores to retrieve the broken plastic pieces from the pipe. Not sure if it will work for washers and a screw but worth a shot. I put it right up to the bore for 3 seconds and sucked coolant out of it.
I will take another crack at it in the morning. I thought I was being so careful, only to wind up in this mess. The funniest part is that this all started trying to replace the purge valve.
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Wow - what timing.... The Car Ninja does coolant pipes on an M54:
  • uses a 90 degree pick and other metal tools to remove old broken pipe in bores
  • uses a wire brush in a drill to clean bores
  • no mention of RTV - but can't tell for sure.
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I will take another crack at it in the morning. I thought I was being so careful, only to wind up in this mess. The funniest part is that this all started trying to replace the purge valve.
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Sorry to hear about your mishap :-(. Did you drop them in "A" or "B"?

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Sorry to hear about your mishap :-(. Did you drop them in "A" or "B"?

View attachment 939465
Unfortunately in B
Unfortunately in B
Have you consider pulling the thermostat housing and peek in there? I wonder if a flexible wand with a magnet at the end can get through from the thermostat housing opening to where "B" is. See my crude drawing with a black line below.

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I pulled both the thermostat (and water pump), but wasn’t sure exactly where I should be looking (for the Dremel screw). I will try again tomorrow when things hopefully go smoother. There was a mention of trying to flush the items out, but I am not sure where I would be feeding the water from. Once I get back under the hood with this diagram, hopefully I will have a better idea where to look.
I appreciate the help.
I found this picture of what the coolant channels look like behind the thermostat. There's a channel to the left, one to the right (red arrow) and one downward. They are in agreement with the picture Effduration posted above in post #90. From the looks of it, the channel to the right goes to one of the hard coolant pipes where you lost the screw and washers (labelled "B" above). What I would do is use a magnet on a flexible goose neck and probe from the thermostat housing right channel since there's more room to maneuver.

Picture captured from this:

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the buffing wheel fell off and inside the port going into the block (Not the one directly above the water pump).
This sounds to be the lower pipe connected to the block behind the water pump.

Unfortunately in B
this upper pipe to the head, behind the Tstat.
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