[Sapote]

This is what it looks like so far. The secondary air vacuum hose hard line broke so I'm just going to use a silicone hose all the way from the back to the cannister. The hoses were falling apart. :-(

You need to tape up the fuel rail metal pipe, or debris got in then you have fuel injectors issue.

 

[Sapote]

Decided to clean the engine a little before I start taking off the hard pipes. It looks better but not prefect.

The Knock sensors cable should be ziptied to the lower hard pipe bracket by the factory boys, but missing in this pic circled in red. Some other hands had been in here before you I think.

 

[Sapote]

Is the ports section clean enough to put the intake manifold back on? There shouldn't be an oily residue but there are stains on it.

Not ready until using your credit card edges to run along the ports surfaces to clean up it good without creating any scratches.

 

[Sapote]

Should I use a pick with a 90 degree angle to pull the stuff out?

Should not. Use a straight pick instead, and stab the rotten pipe lengthwise, then tilt the pick to pull the pipe into its center, and this will break a good piece off without damaging the aluminum hole. Keep stab and tilt until they all gone, then use the sharp edge of a broken hard plastic rod (or chopstick) to rub out the hole smooth and be safe.

 

[Sapote]

It feels pretty smooth in there but the stains remain.

Are you sure they are stains or pitted from corrosion?
Maybe this is too late, but I would add a thin coat of RTV on the bore and on the O-rings before install the pipe back in.
Both pipes had been leaking many months, so I wonder how much coolant you needed to add per week to top off the tank?

 

[Sapote]

This is what I am talking about - It IS aggressive...a steel wire brush on an aluminum bore...I use it carefully and softly by hand to break up the pipe residue...and then follow with a fine grit buffing wheel. My wire brush is the 1/2 inch diameter size which is much smaller than the hole- easier to control.

I wouldn't use any power tool to clean the bore. Sharp edge of a broken hard plastic rod (chopstick) is what I use to clean smooth the bore. Power tool can enlarge the bore then....more headache.

 

[2001Silver330CI]

The Knock sensors cable should be ziptied to the lower hard pipe bracket by the factory boys, but missing in this pic circled in red. Some other hands had been in here before you I think.

View attachment 939279

Mine had blue zip ties. I guess I need to put them back on when I'm done with the hard pipes and pressure testing the coolant system.

 

[2001Silver330CI]

Should not. Use a straight pick instead, and stab the rotten pipe lengthwise, then tilt the pick to pull the pipe into its center, and this will break a good piece off without damaging the aluminum hole. Keep stab and tilt until they all gone, then use the sharp edge of a broken hard plastic rod (or chopstick) to rub out the hole smooth and save.

I used a straight pick to break up the pieces and used the curved one to pull stuff out (like the o-rings and pieces).

I think mine are smooth but stained.

 

[2001Silver330CI]

Are you sure they are stains or pitted from corrosion?
Maybe this is too late, but I would add a thin coat of RTV on the bore and on the O-rings before install the pipe back in.
Both pipes had been leaking many months, so I wonder how much coolant you needed to add per week to top off the tank?

Not sure if they are pitted. I can use red RTV in the bore and on the o-rings before I install the new pipes. I'm assuming I do it at the same time and let them sit to cure for 24 hours before pressure testing the system for leaks.

It was leaking slowing. Maybe a pint a month.

 

[2001Silver330CI]

I'm trying to decide if I'm going to use red RTV after reading this thread. Some people used it without issues and others don't recommend it since it could fall apart and clog up the system. Thoughts?

They also recommend taking the water pump and flushing with distilled water to see if any pieces were left behind, I don't think so but I'm not absolutely sure. Did anyone do this?

 

[Sapote]

I'm trying to decide if I'm going to use red RTV after reading this thread. Some people used it without issues and others don't recommend it since it could fall apart and clog up the system. Thoughts?

Any sealant or RTV is fine. The trick is have a thin coating on the bore (as the pipe is inserted into the bore, the O-ring will push the excess glue into the head, so just use a thin layer put more between the two O-rings, and insert the pipe immediately when the sealant still wet).

 

[2001Silver330CI]

Any sealant or RTV is fine. The trick is have a thin coating on the bore (as the pipe is inserted into the bore, the O-ring will push the excess glue into the head, so just use a thin layer put more between the two O-rings, and insert the pipe immediately when the sealant still wet).

Should I try installing it without any RTV and pressure test it to see if it leaks? If so, just put coolant on the end and install it?

If not, you're saying to coat the entire bore with a thin coat of RTV and then install the pipe? The member in the above thread installed the pipe with the red RTV before the o-ring in two places (see below picture). I assume this would get on the bore and coat the o-ring with RTV.

 

[Sapote]

put more between the two O-rings, and insert the pipe immediately when the sealant still wet

Did I say between the O-rings?

Add thin coat on the board acts as lube for the O-rings to slide in easy.
This pic show the top ring of glue is bad for no good reason: anything beyond the inner O-ring is useless so why anyone added glue there?
On the pipe, don't put any glue beyond the inner O-ring, but add plenty of glue from inner O-ring to beyond the outer O-ring as I marked on the pic, because this glue will not get over the inner O-ring and contaminate the system. Nothing outside of the inner O-ring could get into the engine, right?

 

[Sapote]

deleted

 

[2001Silver330CI]

Did I say between the O-rings?

Add thin coat on the board acts as lube for the O-rings to slide in easy.
This pic show the top ring of glue is bad for no good reason: anything beyond the inner O-ring is useless so why anyone added glue there?
On the pipe, don't put any glue beyond the inner O-ring, but add plenty of glue from inner O-ring to beyond the outer O-ring as I marked on the pic, because this glue will not get over the inner O-ring and contaminate the system. Nothing outside of the inner O-ring could get into the engine, right?

View attachment 939348

So using the picture as a guide, remove the RTV above the top ring because that could get into the coolanting system. Put RTV underneath the top o-ring and all the way to underneath the bottom o-ring.
Wouldn't putting some RTV on the bore possibly introduce some into the system by pushing it with the top o-ring? I know the top o-ring needs some type of lub so it doesn't roll off its location on the pipe, but putting it on the bore seems almost the same as putting it on the top of top o-ring. If it's tight inside the walls of the bore and the top o-ring, some will never get past the top o-ring.

 

[2001Silver330CI]

As far as putting RTV in the bore, do I pu a thin coat on the entire length of the bore?

 

[Sapote]

As far as putting RTV in the bore, do I pu a thin coat on the entire length of the bore?

A thin coat on the bore to cover up to where the inner O-ring will reach. There will be just a thin bead stuck to the inner side of the inner O-ring.
Just think about what if it leak after the intake manifold installed back and driving couple days later? I won't take the risk of not using RTV in this case.
Also, after coating the RTV then immediately install the pipe and not wait for it to set.

 

[Archbid]

I'm not understanding why you didn't remove the fuel rail and disconnect the fuel line before you removed the intake manifold. IMHO, you've made your life much more difficult when you did that. If you're worried about putting the last nut back (in your other thread), remove the fuel rail so you have access. Problem solved.

Stick a shop vac with a crevice tool into the intake runners on the block side when you reinstall the intake manifold just in case something fell in.
I think 10 posts ago it was recommended that you change the upper and lower o-rings to the injectors. If you decide to do that, my personal preference is the label the injectors so they go back in the same sequence or better yet, do them one-at-a-time so they don't get mixed up. Having said that, I'm sure others will say it doesn't matter where they go back in
I tried P21 per MrMCar's recommendation to clean the engine. Holy crap I was impressed.
Don't forget the missing vacuum hose to your vacuum canister. It goes from the canister to a port on your firewall. 3.5mm ID vacuum hose.

Once you remove the fuel rail you need to replace the injector o-rings if original. Leaving it in avoids that hassle

 

[Archbid]

It looks like there is a hose from the back of the intake manifold that goes to that vacuum canister. It may have come off when I took off the manifold because I don't remember disconnecting it. It almost looks like it may have broke the tip of the canister when I took it off. I plan on replacing all of my vacuum hoses today so should I get a cap for vacuum reservoir/cannister and the back of the intake manifold?

The nipple on the vacuum canister is fine. It just has crusty bits from the old hose. Either run a short length of new hose from the manifold to that nipple or cap the nipple on the manifold. If you do that you may as well just remove the vacuum canister as it will no longer function.

I would consider replacing your crankshaft sensor if it is original. It is probably fine, but they do fail and it is so much easier with everything out of the way.

If you still need a small vacuum cap and can wait a few days let me know. I have a few silicon ones that will not rot like the bmw ones.

 

[2001Silver330CI]

Once you remove the fuel rail you need to replace the injector o-rings if original. Leaving it in avoids that hassle

Removing that back intake manifold nut was a pain because of the fuel rail. Installing it maybe just as difficult.