I think some gasket sealant is needed as the bottom housing is pitted
Some fuel rails are easy to detach, don't aren't. There is bracket with a 27 or 30 torx attaching the fuel line to the IM.I just kept the fuel rail attached and remove the fuel line once I got the IM off the block a little.
Both hard pipes are genuine BMW! Lucky day.2001silver330ci:
Thanks so much for taking and sharing your pictures. I just removed 3 IMs at the yard, to practice. From one I retrieved a brand new (almost) set of hard pipes and hoses.
I didn't know that. That sure saves a lot of time trying to get the clips out!... I simply unplug (carefully) the electrical harness that plugs into each injector, ...
Thank you!A wobble extension or a universal joint attached to your socket will get that last nut no problem.
Be sure to put a piece of tap inside the socket when you reinstall those nuts...I have lost a couple that I have never found...
Both hard pipes have DOUBLE o-rings!I don't see this come up enough but i is worth mentioning that the old plastic coolant hoses are brittle and will likely crumble when you pull them out, possibly to the point that an o-ring stays behind. You'll want to inspect your old pipe ends to make sure they're intact and that you got the o-ring out. If not you'll need a pick to fish out the o-ring and any remaining pieces of coolant pipe that were left behind.
The holes felt smooth. I didn't want to introduce brake cleaner into my cooling system.scotch brite buffing wheel
Thanks so much for sharing the finished tubing, especially in COLOR!.....
This is what it looks like so far. The secondary air vacuum hose hard line broke so I'm just going to use a silicone hose all the way from the back to the cannister. The hoses were falling apart. :-(
View attachment 939094
I did take out double o-rings. The first thing you see in the hole is the first o-ring, then plastic pipe, another o-ring and then more plastic. :-(Both hard pipes have DOUBLE o-rings!
Red RTV?I think some gasket sealant is needed as the bottom housing is pitted
I couldn't believe how they had deteriorated they were! I got the red one on ebay and was thicker than the blue one.Thanks so much for sharing the finished tubing, especially in COLOR!
Effduration: You're a very fastidious teacher. Well meticulous! Thank you.I would say no...Mine are always quite a bit cleaner than that. I think I see old pipe residue in your photos...Is it smooth to the touch? It doesn't look it. I might have a little staining on mine, but a lot less than I see here.
This is what I am talking about - It IS aggressive...a steel wire brush on an aluminum bore...I use it carefully and softly by hand to break up the pipe residue...and then follow with a fine grit buffing wheel. My wire brush is the 1/2 inch diameter size which is much smaller than the hole- easier to control.Are you talking about these buffing pads?
Amazon $12.99 Rocaris 40 Pack 1 inch Abrasive Wheel Buffing Polishing Wheel Set For Rotary Tool - 25mm
These tube burshes?
Amazon $10.80 Long Straw Brush, Nylon Pipe Tube Cleaner 8-ihch 10 Different Diameters Set of 10
I think I have one of those brushes I used to clean my battery connectors.This is what I am talking about - It IS aggressive...a steel wire brush on an aluminum bore...I use it carefully and softly by hand to break up the pipe residue...and then follow with a fine grit buffing wheel. My wire brush is the 1/2 inch diameter size which is much smaller than the hole- easier to control.
Armour Line RP77261 Tube Cleaning Brush, 1/2 in, Pack of 1
regarding brake cleaner...its your call, but:
1. most of it will dry or evaporate,
2. It's a tiny amount of solvent in 2 gallons of coolant, and
3. Since I pressure test (and drain) with distilled water before final fill with 50/50, much of it will flush out.
I noticed this plastic pieces where the bolt goes through can fall out. I didn't notice it until I had taken my old gasket out and one fell out when I was moving the intake manifold around.There are loose parts in the runners that are held in place by the intake gasket. Don't lose one... couldn't find a part number for a replacement. Also, watch Chris Fix video on detailing. All you need are wet wipes, a few brushes, and soapy water in a spray bottle to clean that block. I've thrown up a photo of mine. Think about changing your starter while you're there. Also the black and white valve in the rear of the intake is a one-way valve. Make sure you keep the orientation correct. I took the time to use zip ties to color code the wire connections. Helps for the next install.
I successfully removed a 3rd starter in the yard, for practice. I used an E12 spanner (the other end E10), and a 12" wrench/spanner (with a big hole at the end of the handle) for leverage. The 12" spanner offers a lot of leverage, so loosening the bolt was not a problem at all. After the bolt was loosened by a few turns, I switched to a 10mm ratcheting wrench to loosen the bolt more until it was free, without which it would take more longer.....
I thought about changing my starter until I saw the price and how much work it was. I'll change it when it starts to give me trouble.