I think some gasket sealant is needed as the bottom housing is pitted
Intake Manifold Is Off! - Now to fix the hard pipes
Finally got the manifold off and mostly followed the ShopLife video on how to do it. Now I can start replacing the coolant and heater hard plastic pipes.
Lessons learned with taking off the intake manifold:
1) Have instructions so you can remember how to put it all back together
2) The last manifold nut in the back was hard to take off because I didn't remove the fuel rail
3) Even after vacuuming the areas near the intake ports I found debris near the holes so I covered them up as soon as I removed the manifold but not fully removed
4) The intake manifold gasket is hard to get out and it is breaking while I try to pull it out.
What is the best way to clean the intake manifold and block? I'm going to put aluminum foil over the CCV pipe and fuel hose to make sure nothing gets in them.
Lessons learned with taking off the intake manifold:
1) Have instructions so you can remember how to put it all back together
2) The last manifold nut in the back was hard to take off because I didn't remove the fuel rail
3) Even after vacuuming the areas near the intake ports I found debris near the holes so I covered them up as soon as I removed the manifold but not fully removed
4) The intake manifold gasket is hard to get out and it is breaking while I try to pull it out.
What is the best way to clean the intake manifold and block? I'm going to put aluminum foil over the CCV pipe and fuel hose to make sure nothing gets in them.
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There are loose parts in the runners that are held in place by the intake gasket. Don't lose one... couldn't find a part number for a replacement. Also, watch Chris Fix video on detailing. All you need are wet wipes, a few brushes, and soapy water in a spray bottle to clean that block. I've thrown up a photo of mine. Think about changing your starter while you're there. Also the black and white valve in the rear of the intake is a one-way valve. Make sure you keep the orientation correct. I took the time to use zip ties to color code the wire connections. Helps for the next install.
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I successfully removed a 3rd starter in the yard, for practice. I used an E12 spanner (the other end E10), and a 12" wrench/spanner (with a big hole at the end of the handle) for leverage. The 12" spanner offers a lot of leverage, so loosening the bolt was not a problem at all. After the bolt was loosened by a few turns, I switched to a 10mm ratcheting wrench to loosen the bolt more until it was free, without which it would take more longer.
The 2 Bimmers I was working on was a 2004 (and another 2005) 330xi, and one has a metal plate attached on the bolt (next to the vacuum canister) used as a hanger for a wire, that made removing that bolt that much difficult. But since I was practicing, I bent the metal plate (probably not necessary) to gain easier access.
More important for the vacuum canister-side bolt, the 2 heater hoses on the firewall hinder the wrench access to the bolt, so I had to remove the two hoses first.
So gratifying to have the starter out!
Sorry, it was a rainy day here in Portland Oregon, and I was absorbed by the task at hand, that I forgot to take pictures. For 2001Silver330CI's comfort, all the 3 starters I removed were original Bosch products. The last 2 had the manufacturing dates coded: 1 was 03-xx-yy (2003) and another 04-xx-yy (2004). so starters apparently are very durable.
I left the starters inside the car, for whoever may need them. One of these days, I maybe fortunate to come across a replacement Bosch that is less than 3 years old
41 - 60 of 111 Posts
