E46 Fanatics Forum banner

Intake Manifold Is Off! - Now to fix the hard pipes

7752 Views 110 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  fanatichuman
10
Finally got the manifold off and mostly followed the ShopLife video on how to do it. Now I can start replacing the coolant and heater hard plastic pipes.

Lessons learned with taking off the intake manifold:
1) Have instructions so you can remember how to put it all back together
2) The last manifold nut in the back was hard to take off because I didn't remove the fuel rail
3) Even after vacuuming the areas near the intake ports I found debris near the holes so I covered them up as soon as I removed the manifold but not fully removed
4) The intake manifold gasket is hard to get out and it is breaking while I try to pull it out.

What is the best way to clean the intake manifold and block? I'm going to put aluminum foil over the CCV pipe and fuel hose to make sure nothing gets in them.

Attachments

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 3
21 - 40 of 111 Posts
I don't see this come up enough but i is worth mentioning that the old plastic coolant hoses are brittle and will likely crumble when you pull them out, possibly to the point that an o-ring stays behind. You'll want to inspect your old pipe ends to make sure they're intact and that you got the o-ring out. If not you'll need a pick to fish out the o-ring and any remaining pieces of coolant pipe that were left behind.
I'm ready to pick away! I'm cleaning everything before taking it all out.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
It looks like there is a hose from the back of the intake manifold that goes to that vacuum canister. It may have come off when I took off the manifold because I don't remember disconnecting it. It almost looks like it may have broke the tip of the canister when I took it off. I plan on replacing all of my vacuum hoses today so should I get a cap for vacuum reservoir/cannister and the back of the intake manifold?

$3.49 BMW Vacuum Cap - Genuine BMW 11611437560
Your vacuum canister tip did not break, the vacuum hose simply crumpled due to age.

If you're going to basically "delete" the exhaust flap, then you need to plug the vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold. You already purchased a mixed packaged of vacuum plugs based on your other posts, just use one of those that fits.

Attachments

See less See more
6
Your vacuum canister tip did not break, the vacuum hose simply crumpled due to age.

If you're going to basically "delete" the exhaust flap, then you need to plug the vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold. You already purchased a mixed packaged of vacuum plugs based on your other posts, just use one of those that fits.
I realized that once I started taking off the hoses on the intake manifold and they just crumbled. :oops:

I didn't purchase a mixed bag of vacuum hoses...just the big one for the back. Now I have to order a couple of this 3.5 mm caps, fuel injector o-rings and some extra intake manifold nuts in case I lose one. Anything else?

This is what it looks like so far. The secondary air vacuum hose hard line broke so I'm just going to use a silicone hose all the way from the back to the cannister. The hoses were falling apart. :-(

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Automotive design Audio equipment


Reptile Road surface Lizard Asphalt Scaled reptile

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Circuit component Gas Automotive wheel system
Automotive tire Hood Product Motor vehicle Automotive design
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper

Attachments

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I realized that once I started taking off the hoses on the intake manifold and they just crumbled. :oops:

I didn't purchase a mixed bag of vacuum hoses...just the big one for the back. Now I have to order a couple of this 3.5 mm caps, fuel injector o-rings and some extra intake manifold nuts in case I lose one. Anything else?

This is what it looks like so far. The secondary air vacuum hose hard line broke so I'm just going to use a silicone hose all the way from the back to the cannister. The hoses were falling apart. :-(
Don't confuse vacuum hoses with caps :). If you go back to some of your old posts, there was a recommendation that you should get a mix package of vacuum caps. Something like this you can get at your local auto parts store. For example:


Some have epoxied the vacuum port shut completely at the back of the intake manifold. Personally I would never do that, but it's your choice. You can't un-epoxy something easily :)
Don't confuse vacuum hoses with caps :). If you go back to some of your old posts, there was a recommendation that you should get a mix package of vacuum caps. Something like this you can get at your local auto parts store. For example:


Some have epoxied the vacuum port shut completely at the back of the intake manifold. Personally I would never do that, but it's your choice. You can't un-epoxy something easily :)
I missed where they said to get a mixed bag of caps. :-(

So cap the line behind the manifold (where I have the blue silicone hose) and the cannister under the intake? Benefit is less vacuum leaks. Any cons?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
It’s been a couple years now since I did this job but there’s still dried blood all over the place trying to reinstall everything. I think it was the hose clamps/boots/CCV connections. Hope you don’t have “paws” like I do.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I missed where they said to get a mixed bag of caps. :-(

So cap the line behind the manifold (where I have the blue silicone hose) and the cannister under the intake? Benefit is less vacuum leaks. Any cons?
If you cap the intake manifold port that goes to the vacuum canister, your exhaust flap (in the muffler) would stop working. Some folks prefer that since they get a slightly louder exhaust sound at idle and lower RPM's. In doing so, you would avoid potential vacuum leak between the canister and the muffler.

Side note - I always wondered if that vacuum canister has a one-way valve built in ....? Any reader knows if that's the case?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
It’s been a couple years now since I did this job but there’s still dried blood all over the place trying to reinstall everything. I think it was the hose clamps/boots/CCV connections. Hope you don’t have “paws” like I do.
Not looking forward to putting everything together! lol
  • Like
Reactions: 1
If you cap the intake manifold port that goes to the vacuum canister, your exhaust flap (in the muffler) would stop working. Some folks prefer that since they get a slightly louder exhaust sound at idle and lower RPM's. In doing so, you would avoid potential vacuum leak between the canister and the muffler.

Side note - I always wondered if that vacuum canister has a one-way valve built in ....? Any reader knows if that's the case?
Sounds good to me! I like a little louder exhaust! :)
Decided to clean the engine a little before I start taking off the hard pipes. It looks better but not prefect.

Is the ports section clean enough to put the intake manifold back on? There shouldn't be an oily residue but there are stains on it.

Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas Auto part
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I’m pretty sure the manual had me dismount the power steering reservoir and remove that vanos oil line. You’re going to be working a bit over there and you also want a real good visual and feel when you insert the new pipes.
I’m pretty sure the manual had me dismount the power steering reservoir and remove that vanos oil line. You’re going to be working a bit over there and you also want a real good visual and feel when you insert the new pipes.
I did remove the bottom banjo bolt to get access to the pipe. It still broke inside the hole! lol
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Is the ports section clean enough to put the intake manifold back on? There shouldn't be an oily residue but there are stains on it.
Yes it is...You will want to hit it with brake clean one more time...but clean enough...
Yes it is...You will want to hit it with brake clean one more time...but clean enough...
Wipe it down with brake clean right before putting it back on?
8
Just removed the hard pipes! Of course the part inside the block were broken and corroded. I had trouble with the bottom pipe and the hose connector. I pulled up on the clip and it wouldn't pull or twist off. Luckily I bought new hoses.

Tomorrow I start digging out the pieces of the of the old pipe in the block. Should I use a pick with a 90 degree angle to pull the stuff out? Once I get all the stuff out, I'll put a ball of masking tape inside and sand it smooth.
Water Fish Wood Snout Sculpture
Shoe Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim
Wood Sculpture Art Auto part Metal
Wood Asphalt Automotive exterior Bumper Metal
Scaled reptile Wood Terrestrial animal Road surface Human leg
Wood Twig Natural material Liquid Metal
Human leg Bicycle part Foot Fashion accessory Metal
Bicycle part Wood Automotive exterior Metal Pipe
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
You can use either a 90 degree pick or a hooked pick tool...the hooked tool might be less risky in terms of scratching the bore.

sink the pick tool into a beefy chunk of plastic and pull. It will likely come out in pieces.

I clean it out with a scotchbriite pad on a dremel...but emery cloth works well. I might also LIGHTLY use a plumbers copper pipe brush (used to prep copper pipes for soldering).

BTW - after Installing my pipes but before I reinstall intake, I connect all of the cooling system parts and install a gutted thermostat. I then fill with distilled water - don't worry about bleeding - and add 20 psi (no more) of compressed air thru the bleed screw. Then I look for leaks at all water pipe connections. This has saved me a few times. You don't want to re-do this job because of a rolled o-ring.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Not sure I have a hooked pick tool. I have the green scotchbrite pad but I was planning on using some sand paper.

I was planning on pressure testing the system once I got my hard pipes and new hoses on with 15 psi. :)
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Think how much cash you are saving doing this yourself...Go buy a good set of pick tools including a hooked pick...The scotchbrite wheel I was referring to is Dremel attachment 512E fine grit buffing pads. If you already have a dremel, these might be a big help.
Think how much cash you are saving doing this yourself...Go buy a good set of pick tools including a hooked pick...The scotchbrite wheel I was referring to is Dremel attachment 512E fine grit buffing pads. If you already have a dremel, these might be a big help.
The pick tool works. However many get somewhat aggressive when trying to pull the broken off bits in any blind hole.
The trick is NOT to gouge/scratch the outer perimeter of the round hole (It's aluminum folks! and the tool is steel.) so that a scribe mark remains behind.

If it's deep enough, could be well the source of a future leak as a small amount of pressurized coolant follows past the O Rings down the scratch you placed in there in your zeal to remove the broken pipe.

O Rings work very well inside a clean round hole. They do NOT work well in filling a small scratch inside that hole.
So be careful and check prior so buttoning it all up.
FYI.
  • Like
Reactions: 3
2
The pick tool works. However many get somewhat aggressive when trying to pull the broken off bits in any blind hole.
The trick is NOT to gouge/scratch the outer perimeter of the round hole (It's aluminum folks! and the tool is steel.) so that a scribe mark remains behind.

If it's deep enough, could be well the source of a future leak as a small amount of pressurized coolant follows past the O Rings down the scratch you placed in there in your zeal to remove the broken pipe.

O Rings work very well inside a clean round hole. They do NOT work well in filling a small scratch inside that hole.
So be careful and check prior so buttoning it all up.
FYI.
I was very careful when picking the out the debris so hopefully there is no damage in there.

I used a pick and a pick hook to get the stuff out. Then I vacuumed the holes to get whatever debris fell into the hole, The first o-ring came out, then pieces, then the second o-ring and then more pieces.

I used a 16 mm deep impact wrapped with 500 grit sandpaper and then 1000 grit to smooth it out. It feels pretty smooth in there but the stains remain. I'm really to start installing the new hard pipes. Are the holes clean enough?

Automotive tire Water Eyelash Automotive design Rim
Automotive tire Rim Gas Tints and shades Automotive wheel system
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
21 - 40 of 111 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top