I'm ready to pick away! I'm cleaning everything before taking it all out.
I'm ready to pick away! I'm cleaning everything before taking it all out.I don't see this come up enough but i is worth mentioning that the old plastic coolant hoses are brittle and will likely crumble when you pull them out, possibly to the point that an o-ring stays behind. You'll want to inspect your old pipe ends to make sure they're intact and that you got the o-ring out. If not you'll need a pick to fish out the o-ring and any remaining pieces of coolant pipe that were left behind.
Your vacuum canister tip did not break, the vacuum hose simply crumpled due to age.It looks like there is a hose from the back of the intake manifold that goes to that vacuum canister. It may have come off when I took off the manifold because I don't remember disconnecting it. It almost looks like it may have broke the tip of the canister when I took it off. I plan on replacing all of my vacuum hoses today so should I get a cap for vacuum reservoir/cannister and the back of the intake manifold?
$3.49 BMW Vacuum Cap - Genuine BMW 11611437560
I realized that once I started taking off the hoses on the intake manifold and they just crumbled.Your vacuum canister tip did not break, the vacuum hose simply crumpled due to age.
If you're going to basically "delete" the exhaust flap, then you need to plug the vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold. You already purchased a mixed packaged of vacuum plugs based on your other posts, just use one of those that fits.
Don't confuse vacuum hoses with capsI realized that once I started taking off the hoses on the intake manifold and they just crumbled.
I didn't purchase a mixed bag of vacuum hoses...just the big one for the back. Now I have to order a couple of this 3.5 mm caps, fuel injector o-rings and some extra intake manifold nuts in case I lose one. Anything else?
This is what it looks like so far. The secondary air vacuum hose hard line broke so I'm just going to use a silicone hose all the way from the back to the cannister. The hoses were falling apart. :-(
I missed where they said to get a mixed bag of caps. :-(Don't confuse vacuum hoses with caps. If you go back to some of your old posts, there was a recommendation that you should get a mix package of vacuum caps. Something like this you can get at your local auto parts store. For example:
Some have epoxied the vacuum port shut completely at the back of the intake manifold. Personally I would never do that, but it's your choice. You can't un-epoxy something easily![]()
If you cap the intake manifold port that goes to the vacuum canister, your exhaust flap (in the muffler) would stop working. Some folks prefer that since they get a slightly louder exhaust sound at idle and lower RPM's. In doing so, you would avoid potential vacuum leak between the canister and the muffler.I missed where they said to get a mixed bag of caps. :-(
So cap the line behind the manifold (where I have the blue silicone hose) and the cannister under the intake? Benefit is less vacuum leaks. Any cons?
Not looking forward to putting everything together! lolIt’s been a couple years now since I did this job but there’s still dried blood all over the place trying to reinstall everything. I think it was the hose clamps/boots/CCV connections. Hope you don’t have “paws” like I do.
Sounds good to me! I like a little louder exhaust!If you cap the intake manifold port that goes to the vacuum canister, your exhaust flap (in the muffler) would stop working. Some folks prefer that since they get a slightly louder exhaust sound at idle and lower RPM's. In doing so, you would avoid potential vacuum leak between the canister and the muffler.
Side note - I always wondered if that vacuum canister has a one-way valve built in ....? Any reader knows if that's the case?
I did remove the bottom banjo bolt to get access to the pipe. It still broke inside the hole! lolI’m pretty sure the manual had me dismount the power steering reservoir and remove that vanos oil line. You’re going to be working a bit over there and you also want a real good visual and feel when you insert the new pipes.
Yes it is...You will want to hit it with brake clean one more time...but clean enough...Is the ports section clean enough to put the intake manifold back on? There shouldn't be an oily residue but there are stains on it.
Wipe it down with brake clean right before putting it back on?Yes it is...You will want to hit it with brake clean one more time...but clean enough...
The pick tool works. However many get somewhat aggressive when trying to pull the broken off bits in any blind hole.Think how much cash you are saving doing this yourself...Go buy a good set of pick tools including a hooked pick...The scotchbrite wheel I was referring to is Dremel attachment 512E fine grit buffing pads. If you already have a dremel, these might be a big help.
I was very careful when picking the out the debris so hopefully there is no damage in there.The pick tool works. However many get somewhat aggressive when trying to pull the broken off bits in any blind hole.
The trick is NOT to gouge/scratch the outer perimeter of the round hole (It's aluminum folks! and the tool is steel.) so that a scribe mark remains behind.
If it's deep enough, could be well the source of a future leak as a small amount of pressurized coolant follows past the O Rings down the scratch you placed in there in your zeal to remove the broken pipe.
O Rings work very well inside a clean round hole. They do NOT work well in filling a small scratch inside that hole.
So be careful and check prior so buttoning it all up.
FYI.