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raymondutc said:
i want to get those powerflex bushings and bimmerworld asked what size 60 or 66mm...do you guys know? for an e46 99 328i.

I got mine done early this year with the Trailing Arm Toe Bushings and alignment too. So everything worked out fine the first time. As for the measurment I asked a BMW mechanic. He said that there was no "recall" as bimmerworld states. BMW would upgrade the bushings only if you asked or complained about it. The mechanic just looked and saw how beat up mine were and knew they were 60mm. So if BMW never changed yours, you probably have the 60's.

I take this canyon detour every chance I get going home! Love it! :thumbup:

Peace
 

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E46 steering Problems

raymondutc said:
So I'd like to know if there is anyone who did replace their control arms/ball joints AND installed these powerflex bushings to see whether they have any vibrating issues or not.

OK, in pursuit of solving my 1999 E46 2.8i steering problems i.e. steering shake and rattle and the unnerving feeling when tacking a bend at speed, in fact standard Fords left me for dead! I have had,
New complete Control arms (the replacementshad been modified in design)
Powerflex urethane rear control arm and Anti-roll bar bushings fitted
New anti-roll bar links, new tyres, Balance, tracking, swopped rear wheels to front and re balance, camber/alignment checked,new disc pads,disc ok.
Results: Massive improvement in corner handling,potholes are delt with firmly but with more control, rather than driving a bouncy castle, definite improvement in stering shake BUT I still have a steering rattle,that is a vibration knock at the steering wheel head at low speeds or on uneven roads. BMW say there have not been any mods to steering column or rack(truth?) say prob may be in lower half of s/column joints causing vibrations?
Me thinks there are major design faults being hid here, time the likes of Top-Gear took this on! I'm going to drop them a line, more the better! Will post resilts of Steering column check when completed, anyone got an other advice apart from buying a Rover? Chris
 

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cristor said:
raymondutc said:
So I'd like to know if there is anyone who did replace their control arms/ball joints AND installed these powerflex bushings to see whether they have any vibrating issues or not.

OK, in pursuit of solving my 1999 E46 2.8i steering problems i.e. steering shake and rattle and the unnerving feeling when tacking a bend at speed, in fact standard Fords left me for dead! I have had,
New complete Control arms (the replacementshad been modified in design)
Powerflex urethane rear control arm and Anti-roll bar bushings fitted
New anti-roll bar links, new tyres, Balance, tracking, swopped rear wheels to front and re balance, camber/alignment checked,new disc pads,disc ok.
Results: Massive improvement in corner handling,potholes are delt with firmly but with more control, rather than driving a bouncy castle, definite improvement in stering shake BUT I still have a steering rattle,that is a vibration knock at the steering wheel head at low speeds or on uneven roads. BMW say there have not been any mods to steering column or rack(truth?) say prob may be in lower half of s/column joints causing vibrations?
Me thinks there are major design faults being hid here, time the likes of Top-Gear took this on! I'm going to drop them a line, more the better! Will post resilts of Steering column check when completed, anyone got an other advice apart from buying a Rover? Chris
wow you pretty much took care of everything and still have some steering vibrations??? hmmm interesting. i am right now waiting for my bushings still while they are redoing the design or something in light of the breakage of these inner bushing. but when i get those and the new control arms we'll see what happens. ill be disappointed if there is still rattle but according to you there will be. regardless i need new bushings and id rather take my chances with powerflex.
 

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I just finished my DIY install of the powerflex bushing (66mm). It was a pain in the ass to remove the metal inner housing piece that holds the rubber in place let alone removing the damn bushing. Took me a while to do, but finally got it out. While pressing the inner housing out....BAD NEWS....I noticed the passenger side used the 66mm housing while the driver side used the 60mm. WTF?? I was able to fit the bushing into one side, but not able to get the other one in because the housing is too small. Now i'm stuck with my car in limbo at the shop. I have to go to the dealer and order a FREAKING larger housing! Did any of you guys encountered this problem!! Could this possibly have been a mix up during assembly? When did BMW switch from the 60mm to the 66mm?? My car was built in APRIL 2001.
 

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I thought that I would let everyone know that I was able to talk my dealership into pressing out the old bushings/pressing in the new ones for $20 :D

i actually just bought new 66mm carriers to upgrade from the 60 so i just took the parts there and worked some magic with the SM.
 

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CtrlAltDel said:
I thought that I would let everyone know that I was able to talk my dealership into pressing out the old bushings/pressing in the new ones for $20 :D

i actually just bought new 66mm carriers to upgrade from the 60 so i just took the parts there and worked some magic with the SM.
Can you please post the p/n's and prices for the 66mm carriers? :)
 

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dunno the part numbers
just went to the dealer, said i need new front control arm bushings, he stepped through the parts for my car, and then when it came to that screen, there was two listings for bushings, a 60mm one and a 66mm one...i told him to select the 66mm ones.

since when you order them from the dealer, you get the bracket+bushing (its a set of two) you will need to get the new bushings pressed out.

after CCA discount it was like $90-95
then $20 to get them pressed
plus the $60 for the powerflex i think i paid

so you get the idea of what it costs to switch from 60 to 66mm carriers
 

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My car was literally being manufactured when this thread was authored.
 

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I haven't done this job yet on mine , its the next item on my list. My plan was bushings and ball joints in one visit to this area on the car and this thread confirms that. I also wasn't even considering this job without also budgeting and scheduling a trip to the alignment rack immediately following. I sincerely doubt a tire balance issue would have anything to do with any post work vibrations and would lean heavily tword the ball joint and or alignment.
 

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I regret doing it.. I should use oem.
I will not pay for new ball join just I use Thea bushing..
 

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I've had the PowerFlex bushings for a week now, and I haven't experienced any problems. On the freeway, I normally drive between 70-80 mph and never encountered any steering wheel vibrations. Like others have said, it might be your ball joints or your wheels need to be re-balanced....or both. The Power Flex front control arm bushings are a dark purple color and not black like OEM.

<a href="http://s64.photobucket.com/user/roboeclipse/media/powerflex_zps0425709d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h189/roboeclipse/powerflex_zps0425709d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo powerflex_zps0425709d.jpg"/></a>
 

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I just installed these with new control arms and hr touring kit Smooth as glass up to 90... Still taking it easy with the car as I have new rubber and brakes as well
 

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I hope everyone is aware that the stock ball joints are rubber and don't last for crap. I don't really understand why people would get poly anyway for the street's where potholes are a common thing. I can understand getting them so they last longer. Meyle HD's are stiffer than oe, last longer, and are made for streets and not perfectly smooth race tracks. I would also ask your alignment shop if they know what they are doing with your car.
 

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did not like meyle hd

I just installed meyle hd fcabs and they are so stiff they make the car feel springy and under damped its a 2001 330i with 115000 on stock sport suspension I also installed rear trailing arm meyle hd bushing (what a bittch) and I hate those too. they are stiff enough to transmit a lot more road noise did the powerflex fcabs make more road noise? the meyles did not in front
 

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Hello, I know this is late in the thread, but I thought I'd share what powerflex told me about this very issue. The rep said that the installation of these fcabs could allow the whole lollipop to be pushed too far forward on the shaft of the control arm. This would make the purple poly sleeve to back out of its black plastic housing, as the control arm and bushing settle in together, the exact distance to where it's supposed to settle on the control arm. This backing out will cause vibrations at highway speeds and make the bushing not perform well. Some people, myself included, used a hammer to push them on, because I thought they were supposed to be as far forward on the control arm as possible. This is not a good idea as it will make the bushings want to settle in , riding the control arm shaft, from front to back. So, there is guess work as to where the bushings will settle in... IDK if the rep is full of it, but he recommend the we install the bushings a little too far back, towards the mounting location on the body of the lollipop, so they push themselves into place, using very little pressure, or by hand, without a hammer.

Hope this helps. I will try it out, and hopefully remember to post back here.
 

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The Problem is the inner sleeve rode up the control arm, leaving the outer sleeve where it's attached into the bushing housing still bolted to the frame. So, they separated apart. The bushing doesn't just turn inside it self by the two part design. It also moves in and out of its sleeve. It's not suppose to. Look for yourselves. See the control arm bushing. Note the inner sleeve is not connected/completely in the housing, and it has backed out causing a partial separation of the control to the body.

The advice to give here would be to take it off, clean up the arm to where it is dry, push the bushing on until it barely on all the way, then bolt it on. Leaving it not pushed on all the way, then bolting it on, will make the driving force push it up the arm until it settles where it wants to be. If you installed it passed where it wants to settle in the arm, the housing will back out because it's bolted to the body, and settle pulling the inner bushing away from its housing.
 
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