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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I recently did a LOT of work on my car.
I changed / repaired the following:

Rebuilt VANOS
Replaced entire CCV system
Replaced intake boots and DISA valve
Replaced intake manifold gasket
Replaced all perished and cracked vacuum lines and hoses
Replaced throttle body gasket
Replaced VCG and dipstick O rings
Replaced coolant temp sensor and cam position sensor (Ex)
Replaced injector O rings and filter screens
Cleaned MAF, TB and IAC
Replaced OFH Gasket
Replaced water pump
Replaced all drive belts and tensioners

I did some other work, but unrelated, removed mechanical fan etc.

So car runs great except for a purge valve error. No big drama, I'll get there eventually.

So I recently installed INPA and went to reset my adaptions as the car has been running in a neglected state for a LONG time and has just had a heap of repairs done.

Car was idling and I was mashing keys and clearing adaptions.
Now I really should have read exactly what each adaption does as I got to F4 or F6, can't remember exactly, but RPM rose to about 1300 and throttle did nothing. Car bogged and wouldn't accelerate.

I quickly turned the car off and then tried to restart it. It started ok, idled ok, so I went for a drive.
Car drives OK. MAYBE a little down on power, but could be my paranoia!! lol

QUESTIONS:

Could I have done any damage resetting adaptions with car running??????

Car is also still using a lot of fuel.
I think the thermostat is stuck open as it takes a long time to warm up. Runs at 187 degrees farenheit when hot.
Will fuel consumption possibly settle after resetting adaptions, or more related to soft failing thermostat. Getting around 14 - 15MPG

Car is a 2001 325i Auto Sedan with 200K KMS

Sorry in advance for my ramblings! lol

Cheers.
 

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2003 325xi 5spd Manual
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844 Posts
Shouldve reset with the car on power on mode only, not engine running, huge mistake. MPG will come back later after adaptation occurs again. Damage done? unlikely if the car is running fine now. Soft thermostat will hurt mpg since the car will be dumping fuel in to try and heat up quicker
 

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2004 325i automagic
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+1 ^

Soft failing tstat will hurt fuel economy. Hopefully that 14 to 15 mpg is city driving, not highway. Operating temp is around 96C, btw.

While you are in there, it's a good idea to replace the expansion tank (if that hasnt been done recently) since that is a major weakness of the cooling system. With an auto, you also will need to change the atf thermostat that is at bottom of ET as it often breaks when the ET is removed.

You may also want to look around the transmission for signs of leaking ATF, including at the selector shaft where it goes into side of transmission. Low atf levels can cause sluggishness and probably a loss of fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
+1 ^

Soft failing tstat will hurt fuel economy. Hopefully that 14 to 15 mpg is city driving, not highway. Operating temp is around 96C, btw.

While you are in there, it's a good idea to replace the expansion tank (if that hasnt been done recently) since that is a major weakness of the cooling system. With an auto, you also will need to change the atf thermostat that is at bottom of ET as it often breaks when the ET is removed.

You may also want to look around the transmission for signs of leaking ATF, including at the selector shaft where it goes into side of transmission. Low atf levels can cause sluggishness and probably a loss of fuel economy.
Auto is reasonably leak free. Will be doing a full fluid and filter change in the near future so will double check it.
Think I'll just do thermostat for now and hope I don't break anything when swapping it out. Will check fuel economy then refressh cooling system later.
Yes city driving BTW.

Thanks.
 

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14 mpg is still too much unless you rev to red zone from every traffic light. I’d recommend to get a close look at MAF. The way it affects driving is hugely underestimated usually and paid attention only when your instrument panel lights like a Xmas tree. cleaning usually doesn’t do much unless it really was covered with dust, and even using proper MAF cleaner doesn’t guarantee safe result. It could still work but not right. It won’t show any codes, but if you swap it with new one you’ll see noticeable difference.



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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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14 mpg is still too much unless you rev to red zone from every traffic light. I***8217;d recommend to get a close look at MAF. The way it affects driving is hugely underestimated usually and paid attention only when your instrument panel lights like a Xmas tree. cleaning usually doesn***8217;t do much unless it really was covered with dust, and even using proper MAF cleaner doesn***8217;t guarantee safe result. It could still work but not right. It won***8217;t show any codes, but if you swap it with new one you***8217;ll see noticeable difference.
The MAF can and will trip trouble codes if it falls too far out of range or if there***8217;s a problem with the circuit.

I would not blindly replace the MAF, or any other part for that matter. Check its performance first. The MAF at warm idle with accessories off should be between 3.6-4.2 g/s. MAF should be genuine BMW or Siemens/VDO brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The MAF can and will trip trouble codes if it falls too far out of range or if there's a problem with the circuit.

I would not blindly replace the MAF, or any other part for that matter. Check its performance first. The MAF at warm idle with accessories off should be between 3.6-4.2 g/s. MAF should be genuine BMW or Siemens/VDO brand.
Here is a screenshot at idle before deleting adaptions. Pretty sure it's the original MAF.
I will check again tomorrow as I went for a 60KM drive today. Getting almost 17MPG after todays city drive.
Will check further tomorrow.

Cheers.
 

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Here to serve y’all
2004 330Ci 85k miles
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Here is a screenshot at idle before deleting adaptions. Pretty sure it's the original MAF.
I will check again tomorrow as I went for a 60KM drive today. Getting almost 17MPG after todays city drive.
Will check further tomorrow.

Cheers.
Your MAF value of 12.5 kg/hr converts to 3.47 g/s, which is fine.

Post the L-probe and A-reg screens as those show the O2 sensors and fuel trims.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
No probs. Will do it tomorrow. I am guessing it is just down to the EVAP purge solenoid and 200K on the motor.
Cheers.
Bloody valve cover gasket is leaking again. Replaced it a month ago. Oh well, time to rip it out and RTV it! LOL
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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Regarding clearing adaptations, I have seen a few cases where clearing all DME adaptations using INPA significantly improved engine running. Cannot tell you exactly why. In the course of doing over 300 free DME and EGS updates over the years I have seen it more than once.
I***8217;ve never seen a case where clearing adaptations hurt anything. Make sure the engine is off while clearing.
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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Bloody valve cover gasket is leaking again. Replaced it a month ago. Oh well, time to rip it out and RTV it! LOL
It’s pretty common to get hairline cracks on these old plastic valve covers, so check for that. May be the source of your leak if the gasket is fairly new. I’ve patched them with JBWeld.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Will double check the valve cover for cracks as I didn't when it was off last time.
Engine seems to be running a little better after resetting adaptions. Not much, but a little.
Perhaps after "relearning" for a while it will run a little better again.
Yeah, I should have read up on resetting adaptions as my motor was running when I did it. Doesn't seem to have hurt it, but lesson learned!
Thanks everyone. Will post screenshots of O2 sensors and Fuel Trims later today! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, everything looks ok. Could be a little better, but motor has 200K KMs!
I think long term fuel trims are either perfect, lol, or perhaps not reading yet as I reset adaptions 70KMs ago.
I am posting VANOS as I have nothing to compare it to. Does it look ok???
If anything doesn't look right, please let me know.

P.S. My car does not have post cat O2 sensors.

Cheers.
 

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Long term fuel trims will correct themselves after just a few miles on their own. That’s what they do.


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Discussion Starter #16
So just an update.
I replaced the thermostat that was stuck open, and reset all DTC's and Adaptions. WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING this time! lol
Everything looks good, car drives great and fuel economy is down to about 20MPG with mainly city driving.
Running temps are now around the 200 Degrees F. So Win Win!
Still have an EVAP purge valve that has a dead short, so might get better economy again when I get around to replacing that!
Thanks again for all your help and advice people! :)

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did think about it, but time and money dictated the repairs, as I needed the car back on the road and had bills to pay! LOL
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Glad you found a thermostat issue and replaced it. Should help.

A note about resetting adaptations:
With our scanners (Autel, GT-1 & ISTA) resets can be done on the fly and/or KOEO or at idle, doesn't matter. After resetting it takes the engine/DME a few minutes to get a baseline (other than the baseline map stored in the DME) of what values the engine is reporting and where it needs to be. Often the car can run funny for a minute or two.

We're not a big fan of resetting adaptations as a generality. Adaptation & trim numbers read out can be a VERY useful tool.
1) You suspect you have a vacuum leak and effect repairs to various hoses and/or intake boots. Did your work bring about a correction?
If you DO NOT reset the adaptations, you can drive the car normally for a day (taking note of the adaptation & trim numbers before you did some repairs) and then after a day, have the numbers started to return to a more normal state?
2) You suspect you have a bad MAF sensor. You swap in a new one. Again take note of the adaptation & trim numbers. Drive the car NORMALLY, do the numbers start to come closer to normal? If yes, you're on the right path.

Additive (short term) and Multiplicative (long term) take time to register a baseline, especially the multiplicative. If the car is taking action to bring the engine into line by making corrections (adaptations) you can use this as a very useful tool in diagnosis.

Resetting the numbers to a zero value makes the DME start all over again and it's going to take some time before you see if the work you've tried brings about fruit.

A misconception about resetting adaptations. Many claim the car will run better, it can/does for a short while. Resetting is most often done after a repair of sorts, so the car should run better.
The DME will always take measurements and utilize strategies to correct engine parameters in order to bring the engine into a "optimal" baseline. When the engine runs either lean or rich of the target corrections are brought forward: Multiplicative. Knowing how much the DME has added or subtracted is indeed a useful tool.

So when you have a running issue, resist the urge to reset the adaptations, just clear the engine faults (adaptations are unaffected by clearing) and drive the car. Then look at the adaptation numbers after some time and normal driving. Are they returning back to normal? If so, your accomplishing something.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good advice.
I bought the car with a LOT of problems.

Whole CCV shot!
A heap of other vacuum leaks
1 dead coil.
Dead DISA valve.
VANOS bsically doing nothing.
Faulty cam position sensor.
Failed thermostat stuck open.
Noisy water pump.

To name a few.
After repairing these and doing a heap of other work, I just wanted a fresh baseline.
By the looks of the parts I removed, it had been running like that for a LONG time.

If my repairs were minor, one or two parts, then I agree with your advice.

Just my personal choice this time around.

Cheers.
 

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2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
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A few thoughts as you move on:
1. You really don***8217;t ever need to reset adaptations. It is mostly advice given by the clean or unplug your MAF crowd and is wrong. I swapped engines a week ago and didn***8217;t reset mine. Short term trims adapt very quickly and long term come into line not far behind. I also replaced even more than you did (oil pan gasket, hard lines plus your list)
2. Your precat o2 sensors are a maintenance item. Up to 2003 replacement interval is 100k mi(180k km), after it is 125k miles or around 200k km.
3. MAF cleaning is a waste of time and the MAF is not really directly diagnosable. Remember that deviations of 5-10% cause engine issues and you cannot control enough for environmental factors to discern this. Yes, if the readings are way off you can see it. MAF should be replaced around 150-175k miles, or when you have high LTFT and you have consistently high fuel trims at idle and cruising speed and you have already replaced the o2 sensors
4. For these issues ditch the PC-based tools and use OBDFusion to read fuel trims. You likely have high LTFTs
 
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