Before you go to jail without passing Go, go in and get another key.

The key gets a rolling code, similar to how your garage door works, and when you put the key in the ignition, the car and the key do a handshake thing. If the handshake does not go right, the car will not start, and the symptom set will be precisely what you describe.

There is an antenna ring that surrounds the ignition lock set, but this generally fails permanently when it goes. The key will fail randomly, exactly how yours has failed. The key has an RFID chip that stores the rolling code.

 

Before you go to jail without passing Go, go in and get another key.

The key gets a rolling code, similar to how your garage door works, and when you put the key in the ignition, the car and the key do a handshake thing. If the handshake does not go right, the car will not start, and the symptom set will be precisely what you describe.

There is an antenna ring that surrounds the ignition lock set, but this generally fails permanently when it goes. The key will fail randomly, exactly how yours has failed. The key has an RFID chip that stores the rolling code.

Can I get an EWS code when scanning if the ignition switch is in fact the problem and not the EWS?

 

Wire contact down on starter

SM-N910F

 

Maybe. The key thing that I described is a common thing, and a great place to start. If you have two keys and one works but the other does not, then the key is the problem. Easy diagnostic process, and it doesn't cost anything to try.

 

jdstrickland, I have two original keys for the vehicle, and neither worked to start the car.

 

Then the antenna ring is the next on the list of things to check. Well, you need to isolate the clutch safety switch. I don't have a car with the clutch safety switch, so I can't say how to go around it -- provide a constant ground or remove the ground -- but it should be pretty easy to test it to see how it works. The brake light switch provides a ground path to turn the brake lights on, I would expect the same behavior from the clutch switch, but I don't know that this is true or not.

Since the car is a stick, it should start if you can roll it down the driveway. Turn the key on, roll the car down a hill and pop the clutch with the car in gear (2nd gear is the best one to use). Let the clutch out for a moment, then push it back in as the engine starts. When the engine is running, then drive away normally. This will put your diagnostics on a workable path if it works or not.

I am not sure of the starter circuits on the E46, and the schematic is largely a black-box arrangement that does not help people like me. The ignition switch passes 12v to the starter via one of the many sets of contacts inside of the switch. The clutch safety switch fits in here somewhere. The starter has a relay built into it that uses the low-current from the ignition switch and closes contacts that directly connect the battery to the starter motor. There is the aforementioned antenna ring that communicates with the General Module to confirm that the key is the right key for the car. Since you have two keys and neither one works, then this points to the GM5 or the antenna ring itself, or something else in the circuit, but not the keys themselves. The vehicle programming can get in the way here, also. Your car could be coded for only one key, and now that key does not work. The other key is disabled for one reason or another. For example, I was putzing around with my X5 using PA Soft, and I accidentally disabled the keys, both of them, at the same time. There is a diagnostic package that you can get on eBay or Amazon that works with a WinXP computer. With this, you can change the program in the main computer of your car and change many of the parameters/behaviors of your car.

If you have a low tolerance for this sort of thing, you need to make friends with an independent Authorized BMW Service Center in your town. He will have the diagnostic package -- better than what you can buy -- that will do these tasks easily. The car should be able to report which key is being used, and it may be necessary to reset the keys.

 

Could be the EWS ring antenna, but I would probably replace the ignition switch if you can verify the starter is not the problem.

Both the EWS switch and ignition switch are fairly cheap and easy to replaced. The EWS could be failing as well. Without special software or a professional level scan tool, you will only be guessing at this point.

Keep in mind, this car is close to 15 years old at this point, things wear out.

As for sensors, you really do not want to replace them with aftermarket parts, you want the OEM supplier for most of the engine sensors.

 

I will investigate these issues. Last night I had what I thought was a pretty good roll going so I tried to pop the clutch in 2nd and start it and it did nothing.

 

If you thought you had the car going well enough and were unable to roll start the engine and you think it actually turned over enough, then this indicates either the ignition switch is bad and/or there is an EWS problem.

Software is the best bet to understand if there is an EWS problem and what the error(s) are. Sometimes the EWS modules go bad and they do not always have good info about what has failed, sometimes they do not give accurate error reports if the module is failing.

 

Well, after replacing the ignition switch, the issue was still there, so I went ahead and replaced the starter due to the difficulty encountered just trying to test it, I figured I'd go ahead and replace it. Still have the no crank-no start issue.

It's very intermittent. While I was attempting to start it, maybe on the 12th time, it fired up. I then shut it off, it started again for maybe 3 times, then back to the no crank issue. No flicking lights, no clicking sounds, just emptiness when turning the key.

 

Have you read through our no-start thread?
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1011677

 

Oh yeah, I know that thread by heart now. I've worked through everything possible, other than having the software to read the EWS system. I bought the car for $2,000, 120k miles, one owner. Seemed like a good deal. Now I'm either looking at wasting even more of my time and money by buying the software to diagnose the EWS system or paying $115/hr for a local independent shop to diag, or going back through and re-diagnosing everything again. I'm over it. This car is about to get listed on Craigslist for $500 and out of my life.

The best part is, I got it started yesterday, let it run for a bit in an effort to re-create the no crank issue, in that short amount of time it managed to throw two new, completely unrelated check engine lights. Fuel trim codes. I spent quite a bit of time and money performing routine maintenance and preventative maintenance on this car only to have it **** out on me like this. As I've stated before, this, along with the other multitude of issues E46's are known for, rank it right up there with the worst BMW's ever made. At least you knew the 7 series were junk. The 3 series have been known for their reliability.

 

Sorry to hear about all the bad luck. If you were nearby I would bring over my laptop and cables and help you get it all sorted. An E46 with no issues is a real treat, but the inverse is a major bummer.

BMW Scanner 1.4 adapter and software is only $20.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291774701184

If there's a chance you've not given up, PM me your contact info and maybe I can help out?

 

Clean the battery terminals and connections and make sure they are on there tight. I was chasing fuses when my obd scanner wouldn't work and it turned out to be a loose connection.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using E46Fanatics mobile app

 

I've had three E30's that went over 200,000 miles. I've diagnosed a vast array of vehicles with very quirky issues, but from everything I've seen, the E46 seem to be fraught with issues that aren't typical for BMW's. I spent 5 years as a mechanic working behind several very accomplished master mechanics and I've never seen the plethora of issues the E46s have.

I will say I've reached my limit with this vehicle because it's just not worth it. The software/tool is only $30, but then I'm another $30 into it and just waiting for the next thing to fail. I am very grateful for the help and information provided by this site and it's members. I'm on the fence whether or not to continue monkeying with this vehicle as it's become a time drain on me. I'll probably dump it and pick up a Camry or something more reliable with less failure points. I know no car is perfect, but the E46 seem to have too many issues to be a daily driver. The age of the car is a moot point as I routinely see and have had cars of this age that perform well. Now, if this were a M3, I'd sure as heck have the ambition to keep trying, but it's a 323i...

Again, I'm very appreciative of all of the help and knowledge from this site. Who knows, I might just go ahead and pick up the diagnostic equipment and mess with it. It sounds like the software alone takes a bit of tinkering to get it to work on platforms other than XP.

 

No please do not sell your car yet because I'm having the similar problem as you described. Did you get the cable and the diagnostic tool?

I've checked the starter wires but no voltage going through the ews wire(black yellow) and trigger wire (black). So I am guessing it's ews attena ring or ignition switch. Battery tested out to be good (brand new)

I feel like I'm close to it but Amazon lost my cable. Of all the things I bought......

Anyone?

 

I dealt with the same issues previously you're going through. I replaced everything cheaper before finally giving in to it being a fault with the EWS.

RPM Motorsport is local to you, they are EWS experts. I'd give them a call and see what they have to say.

 

Hey Zach thanks for the tip! I called RPM motor and Gabe sent me a guide to troubleshoot whether if its my keys or EWS. These guys are definitely very knowledged and professional.

This is a very good guide for anyone who is unsure if their EWS is at fault.
http://support.rpmmotorsport.net/article/6639/88692/EWS-3-Testing-by-RPM-MOTORSPORT-LTD.

I inserted a 30 AMP fuse on the EWS PIN 1 and PIN 2 on the female plug side, started the engine and the engine cranked. This pretty much confirmed that it is my EWS that is faulty.

The faulty EWS may have caused by accidentally leaving my key in ON position while disconnect and reconnecting the battery, but I'm not sure.

Next step is to get familiar with INPA (compiled by member 328 power 04 here on 46 fanatics) and try reset the EWS.

If not then I might have to send my EWS/key/DME to RPM.

 

Problem solved. My car is starting up like a champ.

Basically the no crank issue was because I miss placed one of the Engine Control Unit fuse #29 or #30 I can't remember and that results in a no crank.

Once I sat the fuse in the correct spot the engine cranked but doesn't start. I checked the fuel fuse and used INPA to check fuel trim and vacuum leak but could not find anything.

Finally I used INPA to sync the DME-EWS and the car cranked a while but I could hear spark and it finally turned over with a very rough idle. Error code read cylinder 2,5 misfire. I shut it off, clear the code, and restarted again and it ran smoothly without issue. It was probably the debris that fell into the valve chamber initially that caused the misfire.

Anyhow, while replacing the starter I also replaced some of the old/dried vacuum hoses, did a 02Pilot mod, changed CCV pipes, replaced the mechanical fan with electrical, replaced the belts and pully, now the car is running and idling smoothly even better than before.

Big thanks to the community and those before me!