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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working on a 325i and the main issue is the car won't start, tried EWS delete but no dice. It will crank for a brief moment if the EWS pins 1/2 are jumped but doesn't try to start, as in no spark/fuel.

The scanner says the vehicle is in deadlock mode and also I see the battery BST had blown and someone made a bad repair, but remember there is proper voltage to turn over the starter.

Once an E46 is deadlocked does that somehow not allow it to start? I am surprised he was able to even get in without breaking a window etc.

The central locking system does not work at all. Just trying to get it to start, not sure if the EWS/Key/Antenna ring are bad or not.
Vehicle does have the 128 EWS "partity" code.

Thanks for any help!
 

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I'm not familiar with the 'deadlock' term as applied to the whole car.

The door locks can double- lock so that they can't be opened from the inside. That's a GM5 function.

The EWS can both not crank the car with the relay inside it, and it can not send the correct code to the
DME. Which will let it crank, but the engine will not start. If it's not getting the correct code from the key,
it shouldn't let the car crank. If you delete EWS in the DME, you also need to bypass the relay inside the
EWS box, too. Those things together should allow the engine to start.

If the BST is blown, then the airbag computer thought the car was wrecked- and that should show up
as an 'event' in its memory, along with what it did in response- for example, driver's #1 and #2 airbags were activated.
At THIS point, the car should have completely unlocked itself, with the idea that the ambulance crew
might need to drag you from the burning wreck.

Try using PASoft's BMWScanner 1.4- I've had good luck with it with airbag things in past. It's linked in
Bali's 'standard tools', so all you need is a compatible dongle.

hth

t
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I'll have to try PaSoft, I have never used it, have INPA/ISTA/DIS and a SnapOn scanner.

Only code was for the EWS parity (128).

Maybe not a great comparison but in my E46 M3 it has a different DME in it than what came from the factory. That DME has an EWS delete and I didn't have to jump/modify the EWS module.

Maybe this is a non-M deal, when we jump pin 1/2 it will crank but not start. All doors open but the central locking button doesn't work and the remote on the key does nothing.

Could have GM5 and/or EWS module issues here, would love to solve this issue, can't quite figure this one out.
 

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Maybe not a great comparison but in my E46 M3 it has a different DME in it than what came from the factory. That DME has an EWS delete and I didn't have to jump/modify the the EWS module.
This car has a swapped out DME, but maybe the EWS and keys are original and so they are matched together allowing the starter to crank without the need to jump pin1 and 2.
 

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2000 E46 323i, 3.0L, 2.8L and 2.0L Z3's
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So, you need to do a DME/EWS alignment to release the drive away protection.

If you have a different DME (different VIN), then you need the EWS delete mod in the DME to remove the drive away protection.

If you have cloned your original DME (same VIN as the rest of the car), you just need to do an DME/EWS alignment. That's a function in INPA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So the DME in this case is original to the car with an EWS delete I did in hopes of it starting.

I tried to re-sync the DME/EWS to no avail. Might have a key with a bad battery that can't communicate with the EWS?
 

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So the DME in this case is original to the car with an EWS delete I did in hopes of it starting.

I tried to re-sync the DME/EWS to no avail. Might have a key with a bad battery that can't communicate with the EWS?
Regardless of the key, starter did crank with the EWS pin1/2 jumped. If the DME was coded with EWS delete mod (DME no longer needs to be authenticated by EWS codes) properly then engine should run.
 

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So the DME in this case is original to the car with an EWS delete I did in hopes of it starting.

I tried to re-sync the DME/EWS to no avail. Might have a key with a bad battery that can't communicate with the EWS?
The battery in the key only runs the remote locks,
the EWS powers the second system that
allows it to communicate with EWS and transfer codes.

If the DME is powered (several times?) with EWS not connected, or vice- versa, it's possible for the
2 to lose sync. It's a rolling code that requires similar numbers, and since the DME doesn't talk back to
the EWS, odd things can break the sync one time, and not another.

t
 
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