[Brewtus79]

In the process of replacing the csb on the driveshaft. I've loosened the bolt that holds the two halves together, but do not see a good way to separate the halves to pull the csb. FYI... I've already match-marked the halves.

02 M3 for reference. Thank you for your input.

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[74123]

In the process of replacing the csb on the driveshaft. I've loosened the bolt that holds the two halves together, but do not see a good way to separate the halves to pull the csb. FYI... I've already match-marked the halves.

02 M3 for reference. Thank you for your input.

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Not sure what bolt you are talking about.

But lock ring? #7 in this link? Good job match marking the two halves for reassembly. Very important for balance.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ET16-EUR-08-2002-E46-BMW-320i&diagId=26_0129

 

[LeverThis]

Not sure if the m car driveshaft is at all like the 330i, but it may need some gentle 'persuasion'. The splines get rusty and bind up a bit when the halves are pulled apart. Check out from 4:15 to about 4:25:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2P14XdaKSM

 

[74123]

Not sure if the m car driveshaft is at all like the 330i, but it may need some gentle 'persuasion'. The splines get rusty and bind up a bit when the halves are pulled apart. Check out from 4:15 to about 4:25:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2P14XdaKSM

Me neither but perhaps OP could check out RealOEM for his car.

 

[Brewtus79]

Not sure what bolt you are talking about.



But lock ring? #7 in this link? Good job match marking the two halves for reassembly. Very important for balance.



https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=ET16-EUR-08-2002-E46-BMW-320i&diagId=26_0129

I watched this video last evening and didnt recall much effort needed to separate the two. I try hitting the tranny end yoke w a deadblow.

Regarding your comment above Ray, mine doesn't have the locking ring style, just a bolt inside the u-joint area same as the posted video. It stumped me as well bc I've referencing the Bentley and it only mentions the locking ring, no bolt.

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[Brewtus79]

Worked like a charm. Thanks for the replies gents!

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[LeverThis]

I watched this video last evening and didnt recall much effort needed to separate the two. I try hitting the tranny end yoke w a deadblow.

Regarding your comment above Ray, mine doesn't have the locking ring style, just a bolt inside the u-joint area same as the posted video. It stumped me as well bc I've referencing the Bentley and it only mentions the locking ring, no bolt.

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Yes, in the video it comes apart with only a tap or two from the deadblow. There is some movement along the splines, correct? Try a little kroil or even just oil on the splines and then gradually push and pull the halves apart?

To help on reassembly, put a matchmark between an individual spline and the other half before you fully pull it apart. With the new csb installed it can be difficult to line up marks on either side of it.

Ray, here is the diagram for the M3 driveshaft (which is very similar to the 330i one). There is a very short spline stub relative to the other style DS, and back at the differential there is a CV joint not a u-joint.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BL93-USA-12-2003-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=26_0197

 

[74123]

Yes, in the video it comes apart with only a tap or two from the deadblow. There is some movement along the splines, correct? Try a little kroil or even just oil on the splines and then gradually push and pull the halves apart?

To help on reassembly, put a matchmark between an individual spline and the other half before you fully pull it apart. With the new csb installed it can be difficult to line up marks on either side of it.

Ray, here is the diagram for the M3 driveshaft (which is very similar to the 330i one). There is a very short spline stub relative to the other style DS, and back at the differential there is a CV joint not a u-joint.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BL93-USA-12-2003-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=26_0197

Got it. Quite a diffference.

 

[LeverThis]

Got it. Quite a diffference.

Indeed. It confused me when I first saw it and it doesn't help that the Bentley has no reference to it at all.

 

[MrMCar]

While the shaft is out, it's very important to check both U Joints to be sure they move very freely w/o any binding. If there is any binding, it will exacerbate itself and vibrate the shaft. Greatly diminishing the life of the center support bearing and is the source of driveshaft vibrations, if the balance is acceptable.

 

[Brewtus79]

Will do MrMCar. Any suggestions for replacing the centering sleeve in the tranny end of the driveshaft?

I tried a slide hammer w poor results.

Item#1 from the link.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BR93-USA-11-2001-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=26_0197



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[LeverThis]

Will do MrMCar. Any suggestions for replacing the centering sleeve in the tranny end of the driveshaft?

I tried a slide hammer w poor results.

Item#1 from the link.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BR93-USA-11-2001-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=26_0197



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Fwiw, those sleeves can be reused if they are in good condition.

If you need to get it out, try packing bearing grease into the center and pressing it out with a snug fit dowel or bolt. You might need to add more grease as it presses out.

 

[Brewtus79]

I attempted that, but the seal wasnt good enough and the grease just leaked out. Its boogered up now so it has to come out. Unless something better presents itself I'll score it and pull it like a neanderthal.

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[MrMCar]

Will do MrMCar. Any suggestions for replacing the centering sleeve in the tranny end of the driveshaft?

I tried a slide hammer w poor results.

Item#1 from the link.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BR93-USA-11-2001-E46-BMW-M3&diagId=26_0197



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Ah the centering sleeve. One of the most misunderstood parts that CAN cause a very large vibration.
99% of the time if you've either dropped the exhaust assembly and/or lowered the rear enough, then removed the driveshaft by dropping the center down and removing the nose first you'll never have an issue.

Problems arise when folks get impatient and haphazardly shove the nose onto the back of the trans and damage the centering sleeve, a bushing really.
Inspect it and if it's not damaged leave it alone. In all my years I think we've only had to replace 2 of them for wear.
Installerror is another story.

 

[MrMCar]

I attempted that, but the seal wasnt good enough and the grease just leaked out. Its boogered up now so it has to come out. Unless something better presents itself I'll score it and pull it like a neanderthal.

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I don't have one of those driveshafts out currently.
I suppose you could (very carefully) use a hacksaw blade with a vise grip. Carefully cut very straight (w/o damaging the driveshaft) and cut through the outer side of the bushing. Center-outwards.
Once through, the removed section from the outer casing will now make the bushing smaller. You should be able to collapse it some, promoting rotation and freedom. Then remove it.

For such, we'd normally use a "blind bushing removal" tool.

 

[LeverThis]

I attempted that, but the seal wasnt good enough and the grease just leaked out. Its boogered up now so it has to come out. Unless something better presents itself I'll score it and pull it like a neanderthal.

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Yes the grease method needs a good seal to work. Can you improve the seal by using rubber gloves around the dowel or socket you are using?

 

[Brewtus79]

Yes the grease method needs a good seal to work. Can you improve the seal by using rubber gloves around the dowel or socket you are using?

That is a good suggestion, but I went with dremel method this morning. Scored it pretty good like MrMCar suggested. I was able to bend it in w punch and hammer and it came out pretty easily.

It is back together w the new csb and driveshaft is installed in the car. That was a b...h torquing the guibo bolts. I have the exhaust to reinstall and if weather permits I'll take her for a spin. I generally dont drive the M3 from November til March April bc of the winter weather and cinder on the roads, but this winter has been ridiculously mild so there is a good chance an opportunity will be presented.

Thanks for the input gents! As usual, sage advice was offered.

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[beechbmw]

While the shaft is out, it's very important to check both U Joints to be sure they move very freely w/o any binding. If there is any binding, it will exacerbate itself and vibrate the shaft. Greatly diminishing the life of the center support bearing and is the source of driveshaft vibrations, if the balance is acceptable.

Brewtus:
Just another thought regarding inspection of the driveshaft while it is out. When I was replacing the differential input shaft seal, I of course had the driveshaft out. When I looked at the body tunnel above the u-joint there was a grease ring. That caused me to get my driveshaft rebuilt with all the usual suspects replaced. I had experienced no vibration before starting the job. Only requires a gander at the body tunnel.

 

[Brewtus79]

Brewtus:

Just another thought regarding inspection of the driveshaft while it is out. When I was replacing the differential input shaft seal, I of course had the driveshaft out. When I looked at the body tunnel above the u-joint there was a grease ring. That caused me to get my driveshaft rebuilt with all the usual suspects replaced. I had experienced no vibration before starting the job. Only requires a gander at the body tunnel.

Thanks for the tip. There is a little bit of spray/grime on the tunnel where the u joints are located. They felt ok when I took it out so I will let it pass.

This job started as just replacing the guibo. When I bought it 2 yrs ago I was told by the dealership that is all that needed attention. Well, the guibo turned into a new csb and diff pinion seal. Fun times.

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[Brewtus79]

Oh yeah, also changed out the stock shifter for a shorter oem performance version (25-11-7-527-259) and rebuilt the linkage since it was going to be staring in the face upon driveshaft removal.

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