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Hi,

I'm a recent E46 owner (a 330 Coupe) after a six year break driving very rubbish, very French, very plastic "cars"

I'm already in love, she is wonderful - I am also in a great mood today as I seem to have solved the two teething problems I was having without a trip to the Dealers.

About 10 miles after leaving the garage I purchased the car from, my DSC and Brake lights came on in yellow accompanied by the warning tone. I briefly considered driving back but wouldn't have made it there before closing time, so cursed myself for buying a car 250 miles from where I lived and resigned myself to taking another 500 mile round trip back to the garage to get whatever it was fixed under the warranty once I'd finished my work week - which would have been tomorrow.

I searched for a solution, A LOT of searching, I tried every solution I could.

- Starting engine and slowly turning wheel from lock to lock. -
This was the first thing I found to try, and has something to do with the stearing angle sensor. Once I'd done this and after turning the engine off and restarting, magically the lights went out, at the very same second I thought "GREAT!" the lights came back on...

- Put in key, wait 10 seconds, turn to position 1, wait 10 seconds, remove key, then start engine normally. -
Didn't seem to do anything

- Remove DSC fuses, start engine, turn off engine, replace fuses, start engine. -
Lights remained on with fuses out, and stayed on when replaced

- While coasting to a stop gently apply handbreak -
Lights went out and stayed out for about 20 miles, then came back on. While lights were out I was able to turn DSC off, and back on again, and see the system working.

- Clean wheel speed sensors -
I didn't do this as cruise control worked so I figure they are good.

- Check tire pressure
rears were at 48, I dropped to 45, fronts were at 34, upped to 38. Lights stayed on for the next two drives, I also reset the run flat system with the new pressures.

On the next drive a few days ago I was on a slightly damp road with both the DSC and the Brake light on in yellow I came into a roundabout with a little too much speed, a fraction of a second before I could scrub a few MPH off with the brake pedal I felt the front nearside wheel brake a small amount and both the DSC and Brake lights went out.

I have now driven 250 miles without the advisory lights on the dash so I'm thinking one or a combination of the above must have done some good. What do you think, should I still take that mammoth drive back to get the car looked at? Should I go down to a local place to get any fault codes read even though there are now no warning lights on? Or should I just keep on driving and not worry unless the lights come back on? Everything else seems perfect, its got 45000 miles on the clock, 2005 registered.

Second issue I had was with the bluetooth, more specifically I could get my HTC Desire HD to pair with the system by following the process in the book. (hold down bluetooth button for 3 seconds, turn key to position 1 while holding button down, release button after 3 more seconds) I could receive calls and hear them over the cars speakers but no matter what I tried I couldn't get my phonebook to transfer over to the car, and I still had the previous owners phone numbers in there which I kept calling by accident.

This was annoying.

Removing the previous phone book was simple, put the car into bluetooth paring mode, then hold the bluetooth button down until you hear a beep and the words RESET will appear on the radio display.

Getting your own phonebook on there was a little less obvious (to me at least). Before you can transfer your own numbers across via bluetooth, you must put the car into BT paring mode. I tried and failed to get any of my contacts to send, even once the phone was pared to the system, but as soon as BT paring mode was activated I could transfer my own numbers (a maximum of 10 at a time)

If you dont know how to send a Vcard over bluetooth (every phone is different) you'll need to do some google work but it was as simple as that.

I hope that this might be useful to someone having similar problems, and I'm interested on if you think anything I did could have solved the DSC light problems?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well a few days later the lights came back on again, so I took the car to the main dealer and explained the problem. He called back a few hours later to say that the hydro unit had failed and needed to be replaced. He wanted authority to have the work done, I'm guessing £1500. "talk to the warranty company" I said. Two days later the car is finally ready to be picked up. What work was carried out?... Replaced Pressure Sensor 2 for DSCIII and bleed the brakes. Total cost £327. Some how I feel that had I been without warranty they would have tried to get me for an unnecessary hydro unit change not just the sensors that had failed.

Anyway, it was sorted finally and didnt cost me anything so all is good. Dont fall for it when they say you need a hydro unit changed!!!!!
 

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No idea why you went through all those steps...all you had to do was have the car scanned and pull the code to find the problem... :dunno:
Yeah no kidding, I don't get why the first step isn't to get the codes read! And generic OBD readers, including the Peake tool are not going to be able to read the codes from the ABS/DSC, as well as many other systems.

And wtf is it with all of these people chiming in that it is most likely wheel sensors? It is a very complex system with many things that can go wrong, and you cannot possibly have a clue without getting the codes read.

I just changed the control unit on my 330 (due to a control unit faulty code), and it is not a repair that I would generally put in the diy category. On a LHD car it is nearly impossible to get the combined electronic/hydro unit out without first removing the master cylinder. Then you have to code the control unit, and have the proper software to cycle the pump to properly bleed the brakes. Then the steering angle sensor has to be calibrated.

What was interesting in my control unit failure was that it seemed to be temperature related. After a good 30min of driving (15min on a warm day) the trifecta of dreaded dash lights would come on...abs/dsc, and red brake light. When the car had time to sufficiently cool, like the next day, the process would repeat itself. If I stopped the car when warm and the lights were on, then restarted a minute later, the lights would come on a short time later. I'm going to try to take apart the old control unit to see if there is anything obvious...the teves mk60 unit in my 330 is not rebuildable by modulemasters. And the price of these units is quite painful...though you can get the electronic part separately, but not the hydro unit. Why I have no idea...anyway seems like loads of these control units fail after 6-7-8+ years of use.

--D
 

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Yeah no kidding, I don't get why the first step isn't to get the codes read! And generic OBD readers, including the Peake tool are not going to be able to read the codes from the ABS/DSC, as well as many other systems.
Thats why I made that thread that is linked in my sig.

And wtf is it with all of these people chiming in that it is most likely wheel sensors? It is a very complex system with many things that can go wrong, and you cannot possibly have a clue without getting the codes read.
And wtf is it with all of these people chiming in that it is most likely wheel sensors? It is a very complex system with many things that can go wrong, and you cannot possibly have a clue without getting the codes read.

And wtf is it with all of these people chiming in that it is most likely wheel sensors? It is a very complex system with many things that can go wrong, and you cannot possibly have a clue without getting the codes read.

And wtf is it with all of these people chiming in that it is most likely wheel sensors? It is a very complex system with many things that can go wrong, and you cannot possibly have a clue without getting the codes read.

And wtf is it with all of these people chiming in that it is most likely wheel sensors? It is a very complex system with many things that can go wrong, and you cannot possibly have a clue without getting the codes read.


I wanted to quote that multiple times so everyone will read that...hell...I should post that in my thread...in fact, I think I will.
 

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Thats why I made that thread that is linked in my sig.

I wanted to quote that multiple times so everyone will read that...hell...I should post that in my thread...in fact, I think I will.
I am currently a 'victim' of the same/similar warning light 'scenario'.

I say 'scenario' because there seems to be no real pattern to the DSC and DBC warning lights coming on and/or turning off. They do both for no apparent reason........AND with no apparent affect on performance/handling/stopping ability. (although I DID manage to lock up one of the rear wheels one day and this has never happened before.)

So, in answer to your question "why don't people just go get their codes read?".....if anybody else thinks like I do (hopefully there are a FEW other whackjobs like me out there).....my guess is that there are TWO or THREE reasons:

1. Most people don't own a code reader

2. Most people assume it costs upwards of $50 or $100 to get someone else to read the codes

3. Even if it's cheaper than that.....there's the inconvenience factor PLUS the intermittent factor, both of which might mean a lot of cost/work/bother for possibly no results.

How's that for logic?
 

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I am currently a 'victim' of the same/similar warning light 'scenario'.

I say 'scenario' because there seems to be no real pattern to the DSC and DBC warning lights coming on and/or turning off. They do both for no apparent reason........AND with no apparent affect on performance/handling/stopping ability. (although I DID manage to lock up one of the rear wheels one day and this has never happened before.)

So, in answer to your question "why don't people just go get their codes read?".....if anybody else thinks like I do (hopefully there are a FEW other whackjobs like me out there).....my guess is that there are TWO or THREE reasons:

1. Most people don't own a code reader

2. Most people assume it costs upwards of $50 or $100 to get someone else to read the codes

3. Even if it's cheaper than that.....there's the inconvenience factor PLUS the intermittent factor, both of which might mean a lot of cost/work/bother for possibly no results.

How's that for logic?
Triggered codes would be stored in memory and you might be able to trace a fault even if the problem with the DSC isn't current.
 

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Triggered codes would be stored in memory and you might be able to trace a fault even if the problem with the DSC isn't current.
In the event that I DO need to replace an ABS sensor (or two)......just how bad are these puppies for removal.

I watched a video (somewhere) and the one shown looked HORRIBLY rusted into place.

Should I start spraying them ALL with WD40 now....just in anticipation of what my code reader will say!! :facepalm:
 

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Thought I would add my experience with my 2001 E46 M3 6sp.

Symptoms-
When leaving a stop I would get a jerky intermittent throttle and car would stumble and not accelerate.
Once above 1500-2000 RPM car would be normal.
Car would accelerate hard and ran fine.
This seemed to happen more when car was warm.
Some days it did this frequently and other days just so often.
I was getting a DSC and ABS light.
No codes that meant anything.

Read this thread and decided to try a few things.
First thing I got some MAF sensor cleaner and cleaned MAF.
Problem went away for a few days.
Replaced MAF and same problem after a couple days.
Replaced Throttle Switch and problem went away for a few days but came back.

Car was at 110k and needed new plugs and coil packs.
Replaced both and found one coil pack that was different brand than all 5 others.
Once I did this car has not done the jerky throttle. It's been a few weeks now.
The DSC/APS light comes on every now and then but no jerky throttle.
So must have been different manufacturer of coil pack.

HTH someone else.
Gary
 

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thought i'd offer my own experience with the yellow brake / abs fail warning. 2003 325XiT, 181K, auto trans *so i never use the e-brake*.

been a cold crappy, no snow, salty, dirty roads winter. in this most recent dusty cold spell, was driving home from work late, everything is nominal, and on a straight stretch of dry pavement, the abs warning comes on - abs disabled. thinking this aint gonna get fixed until spring, thinking on whether one of the connectors got some salt corrosion, etc.

found this thread, next morning idling down the driveway, figured i'd drop it in N and pull the E-brake. slight tug, a bit of resistance, then it frees up and pulls all the way up. just as it gave, the yellow abs warning lights went out, abs is back.

thinking about it, dirt was probably accumulating on the rear e-brake mechanism, close enough the abs sensor to interfere. the resistance giving was some dirt clearing from the abs sensor area. two days and the problem feels like its gone.
 

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dcs light comes on randomly

I have a 323i and the dcs light comes on at random times. like when I'm going in the freeway at 60 mph and it comes on, making my front tire break. I'm pretty sure you guys have had the same problem. how do I get it fix? anybody?:excited:
 

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More DSC, ABS, TPM lights and jerkey throttle from stop

Thought I would add my experience with my 2001 E46 M3 6sp.

Symptoms-
When leaving a stop I would get a jerky intermittent throttle and car would stumble and not accelerate.
Once above 1500-2000 RPM car would be normal.
Car would accelerate hard and ran fine.
This seemed to happen more when car was warm.
Some days it did this frequently and other days just so often.
I was getting a DSC and ABS light.
No codes that meant anything.

Read this thread and decided to try a few things.
First thing I got some MAF sensor cleaner and cleaned MAF.
Problem went away for a few days.
Replaced MAF and same problem after a couple days.
Replaced Throttle Switch and problem went away for a few days but came back.

Car was at 110k and needed new plugs and coil packs.
Replaced both and found one coil pack that was different brand than all 5 others.
Once I did this car has not done the jerky throttle. It's been a few weeks now.
The DSC/APS light comes on every now and then but no jerky throttle.
So must have been different manufacturer of coil pack.

HTH someone else.
Gary
So this fix only lasted a few days.
Still have the jerky throttle from dead stops as before.
Working with indie we have replaced the DSC control unit.
$1400.
Still have problem only now i can turn off the DSC with the dash button.
Couldn't do that before. Doesn't happen when turned off.
Codes that show up are RF ABS sensor and steering angle sensor.
Indie feels that is an error as steering sensors seldom go bad.
indie has had instrument cluster out to measure some resistance values but nothing seems out of line.
Tried ECU from another know
M3 of same year.
No difference with that.
Haven't given up and driving car as problem seems to be getting worse.
Car does not have to be warm for problem to show up.
Suggestions are welcome.
Gary
 

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Steering angle sensor (SAS) calibration is my bet - you can't swap out the ABS without doing it as the values reset to zero. No doubt your shop have the tools to do that - if not my sig and the earlier linked thread have links to the correct version of INPA with the SAS.

If you're so inclined (DIY that is) you might consider getting the correct cable for under $20 and the free software - set it up on an old PC and have yourself a fully functioning diagnostic and repair system for your M3???

$1400 is very expensive for this job. Having your own ABS rebuilt is about $200 and as I mentioned in the linked thread if you pick up a donor module for $100 - that's about it doing your own labor. Anyway - food for thought for the next time - good luck. BTW - Laguna Seca Blue M3 was my favourite color M3.
 

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Steering angle sensor (SAS) calibration is my bet - you can't swap out the ABS without doing it as the values reset to zero. No doubt your shop have the tools to do that - if not my sig and the earlier linked thread have links to the correct version of INPA with the SAS.

If you're so inclined (DIY that is) you might consider getting the correct cable for under $20 and the free software - set it up on an old PC and have yourself a fully functioning diagnostic and repair system for your M3???

$1400 is very expensive for this job. Having your own ABS rebuilt is about $200 and as I mentioned in the linked thread if you pick up a donor module for $100 - that's about it doing your own labor. Anyway - food for thought for the next time - good luck. BTW - Laguna Seca Blue M3 was my favourite color M3.
Thanks for more info.
Yes, I had my module rebuilt at Module Masters.
Made no difference.
I bought a used one for my year from a guy that strips cars for $100.
Was worse than the one in the car.
Indie replaced DSC which cost $1200. Charged me $200 to recode and reset steering angle sensor.

So it's not for a lack of trying.
Gary
 

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50/50 weight distribution.

I had this problem and put even fairly high pressure in all four tyres ( 39 lbs.) and the light went out. I feel that putting the same high pressure in all tyres solved the problem.
 
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