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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I have 2004 330ci coupe. It's time to change oil pan gasket. I changed valve cover gasket and OFHG before, I'm positive it is oil pan gasket now. Car is at 199k miles. Purchased an engine support bar. Watched many youtube videos and was planning to follow 50sKid video. However he doesn't explain how exactly he fixed this support bar on fenders of his car. I put my car on pair of stands, removed both wheels and the front bumper just to have more room to work. Removed all the other stuff, which is in the way and got to the point of removing engine mounts. At that point I had the support bar in place and engine hooked exactly as in Jason's video. However it didn't look stable to me. Not at all. I felt like the bar was ready to slip forward and I wasn't confident with continuing the repair so I halted there.

Question to fellow DIYers, who did this job. How did you secure that engine support bar? Its legs are rubber, but the surface of fenders is uneven and there are bolts, it feels really unstable.
Will appreciate any information, that may help
 

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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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^^^
This.

It's got plenty of adjustabilty built in, not difficult to dodge the fender bolt heads,
 

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Main sure to adjust the supports holding the bar so they are vertical (rather than angled) and tighten firmly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Vertical to the ground or perpendicular to the bar? I adjusted them, so that the bar is vertical to the ground, otherwise it seemed like the bar was going to roll over to the front. And it still seemed unstable.
Thank you guys for replies. Reading older related posts, I don't see the reports of the bar actually rolling to the front. So sounds like there should be enough force from rubber-to-fender grip and engine weight to hold everything firmly in place. I just don't want to drop the engine...😓
 

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OP I have the same questions and concerns as you. I have a 2001 325ci and I was going to replace the engine and transmission mounts. I also bought the same Harbor Freight engine support bar. The bar didn't look stable at all in that the "seam"/channels didn't appear wide enough to support the feet of the brace. I stopped because I didn't want the engine to drop. Now this is from memory but I'm wondering if the CAD of the sheet metal in that area is different (e.g. the seam/channel isn't as wide or has a different downward slope going towards the front of the car) for coupes versus sedans. I don't recall if the DIYs I had read or the videos I had seen were for coupes or sedans.
 

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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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There's no appreciable difference between coupe/vert and sedan/wagon in that part of the car. People doing M3 conversions on sedan/wagon have to modify the back edge of the fenders because the leading edge of the door is further back on coupes/verts, but otherwise the coupe fenders bolt right on the sedan, so that part of the unibody can't be that different.
 

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Shouldn’t be hard to position, and the HF bar works perfectly. I agree on on the painters tape since the metal to the side of the feet gets close to the fender and will settle some as you load the bar.

 

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Shouldn’t be hard to position, and the HF bar works perfectly. I agree on on the painters tape since the metal to the side of the feet gets close to the fender and will settle some as you load the bar.

Looks just like the setup I did for oil pan gasket last month. I also have a cheap HF bar, worked like a champ. Used it on my E61 last year as well which is a wider car, I had to angle the feet inwards behind the headlights on that car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the picture! Even looking at that picture it feels like front feet of the bar are about to slip forward from the fender. It is hard to tell, but seems like there is a small angle inward, so that the hook to the engine could stay vertical to the ground. And I also noticed the legs touched the fender, so definitely need to use some tape for protection
 

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'03 325iT Mystic Blau
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Thanks for the picture! Even looking at that picture it feels like front feet of the bar are about to slip forward from the fender. It is hard to tell, but seems like there is a small angle inward, so that the hook to the engine could stay vertical to the ground. And I also noticed the legs touched the fender, so definitely need to use some tape for protection
Mine is similar but not that exact one, and the feet are rubber and ony rubber parts can come anywhere near any paint. Is the HF that different in this regard?

It is angled forward somewhat, but it's hooked to the engine right? And even with the motor mounts disconnected the engine is still held in by the trans mounts and the exhaust and the driveline, right? There's no way for the support bar to slide forward and drop the engine.
 

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Vertical to the ground or perpendicular to the bar? I adjusted them, so that the bar is vertical to the ground, otherwise it seemed like the bar was going to roll over to the front. And it still seemed unstable.
Thank you guys for replies. Reading older related posts, I don't see the reports of the bar actually rolling to the front. So sounds like there should be enough force from rubber-to-fender grip and engine weight to hold everything firmly in place. I just don't want to drop the engine...😓
Vertical from ground and perpendicular to the bar (i.e. image referenced above). First bar purchased couldn't be locked in that position (i.e. was defective) and therefore weak. If setup like the image shows, you're good. However, definitely test and convince yourself before getting under it. GL
 

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2 things- the trans mount will keep the engine from moving forwards, so get it as close
to the engine pick point as you can, and it'll stay up OK.

Be ready to change your front main seal, too, if there's ANY oil at the front of the
engine. If it leaks, it'll run down into the pan gasket channel, and make it look
like the pan gasket is leaking.

hth

t
 

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I just tossed shop rags under the feet. Like mentioned above, the trans mounts and the weight of the drivetrain will work together to hold the support bar in place.
 
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