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ALL - I am reposting this info as I have seen a lot of questions pertaining to the HK system. Here is the info I compiled earlier this year. :read:

(Earlier post):
First let me say that I did not write or research any of this info. I have been scouring this and other forums collecting bits and pieces. Unfortunately, I can NOT give credit where credit is due, and I'm sorry that I am plagiarizing people's work. If you want to take credit, reply and do so...and THANKS!

That being said, I also cannot guaranty its accuracy...

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As for your subwoofer, the OEM HK convertible 8" sub receives around 20W. DO NOT try to run an aftermarket subwoofer on the OEM amplifier output. You won't be happy. If you're set on trying to fit an aftermarket sub where the OEM 8" driver goes (not sure how, but maybe it's possible), do yourself a favor and get an amplifier for it.

Also, be sure to get an IB (infinite baffle aka "free air") capable subwoofer.
Finally, for the record regarding impedances and power outputs since everyone wants to know:

Harman Kardon E46:
Front / Rear midbass: 3 Ohm
Front Midrange: 3 Ohm
Front Tweeter: 8 Ohm
Rear Midrange (Coupe / Sedan only): 3 Ohm
Rear Tweeter (Convertible only): 8 Ohm

Standard E46:
Front / Rear Midbass: 2 Ohm
Front Midrange: 8 Ohm
Front Tweeter: 8 Ohm
Rear Midrange (Coupe / Sedan only): 8 Ohm
Rear Tweeter (Convertible only): 8 Ohm

As for power output of the HK amp, you've got enough power to drive nearly any tweeter or midrange effectively provided they aren't extremely inefficient. Your big concern is power output to the midbass drivers. Real output is around 15-20W RMS, but ONLY at the correct impedance. So you need a driver that is:

- VERY efficient
- Impedance matched
- Provides an excellent front/rear seal to the door panel (i.e. sized / shaped correctly)

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Subwoofer, I don't have a stock mounting depth.

Tweeter - ~5/8in
Midrange - ~1 3/8in
Midbass - ~ 2 5/8in

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The notation I used below is:
Pin # xx / Signal
(main wire color) / (wire stripe color)
no connection literally means that there is not a wire in the factory harness at that pin.
Signal name followed by an * are signals that I believe to be correct, the color code is verified with the harness etc, but I did not personally use these signals in the upgrade so I can not claim to have proven the connections out personally. In particular I did not verify the +/- polarity of the factory mid range speakers. The non-* signals lines I am using to run the upgraded system so I am sure they are correct (at least for my car).

The harness connector pin numbers are embossed on the plastic. There are two “halves” to the connector, looking at the female harness connector its pin lay out looks like this:

Grey ½ of connector
Pin # 13 / Tweeter Rear Right door + * Yellow Pin # 21 / Tweeter Rear Right door - *Blue / yellow
Pin # 12 / Tweeter Front Right - Blue / Brown Pin #20 / no connection
Pin # 11 / Tweeter Front Right + Blue / black Pin #19 / no connection
Pin # 10 / Switched +12v remote turn on White Pin #18 / no connection
Pin # 9 / Head unit output Front Right + Blue / red Pin #17 / Head unit output Front Right - Brown / orange
Pin # 8 / Head unit output Rear Right + Blue / black Pin #16 / Head unit output Rear Right - Brown / orange
Pin # 7 / no connection Pin #15 / no connection
Pin # 6 / no connection Pin #14 / no connection
Pin # 5 / +12v factory amp +12v supply *Red / green
Pin # 4 / Woofer Front Left +Blue / white
Pin # 3 / Woofer Front Left -Blue / brown
Pin # 2 / Woofer Rear Left +Yellow
Pin # 1 / Woofer Rear Left -Brown

Black ½ of connector
Pin # 34 / Tweeter Front Left - Yellow / brown Pin # 42 / Mid Front Right door + *Green
Pin # 33 / Tweeter Front Left + Yellow / red Pin #41 / Mid Front Right door - *Blue / green
Pin # 32 / Tweeter Rear left door - * Yellow / brown Pin #40 / Mid Front left door + *White
Pin # 31 / Tweeter Rear Left door + * Yellow / black Pin #39 / Mid Front left door - *Blue / white
Pin # 30 / Head output Front left - Brown / orange Pin #38 / Head output Front Left + Yellow / red
Pin # 29 / Head output Rear Left - Brown / orange Pin #37 / Head output Rear Left + Yellow / black
Pin # 28 / no connection Pin #36 / no connection
Pin # 27 / no connection Pin #35 / no connection
Pin # 26 / DC ground factory ampBrown
Pin # 25 / Woofer Rear Right +Blue
Pin # 24 / Woofer Rear Right -Brown
Pin # 23 / Woofer Front Right +Blue / Red
Pin # 22 / Woofer Front Right -Blue / Brown

Pins 1-5 and 22-26 are heavier connections that then other pins, these are the ones that feed the woofers and provide power to the factory amp. I did not use the power connections for the factory amp for the ADS amp – the ADS can draw 30A and the factory connector had wire much to small for that type of current draw. Instead I powered the ADS amp directly (with safety fuses etc) from the battery (easy since BMW puts the battery in the trunk).

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Okay-
Hopefully this will take the guess work out of swapping out speakers and upgrading. In my 2002 E46 M3 with HK sound I have the following speakers...

In the doors, three speakers each door, 6 total for the front stage as follows:
2x Tweeters
37mm/1.5inches overall diameter.
The dome is about .5-.75 inches.

2x Midranges (Top of door next to tweeter) 60mm/2.3inches overall diameter.
37mm/1.5inches overall depth/height.
53mm/2.0 magnet diameter

2x Midbass(Bottom of door)
160mm/6.29inches diameter metal speaker basket overall. Cone is 120mm/4.75inches.
Overall depth/height of speaker 65mm/2.5inches
Overall magnet diameter is 71mm/2.8inches
The overall diameter from bolt hole to bolt hole on center is 190mm/7.4inches on the PLASTIC mounting flanges of the adaptor the speaker is mounted in.
Also there is spacer/ring between the speaker and the door panel that offsets this driver from the door panel by 10mm and has roughly the same overal diameter as the driver. There is some additional space better this ring and the grill, about 20mm to be had with some careful triming.
Speaker Midbass is marked 21watt, 3ohm btw.

In the rear:
2x Tweeters (I didn't pull the panel and measure)

2x Midbass same exact demensions as above Midbass. Identical speaker. Outside edges of the reardeck

2x 6x9 woofers center of rear deck.

This makes for a total of 12 speakers. However, the tweeter and the mid in the upper-front door panel are both powered by one pair(positive and negative) wires. There is small resistor on the tweeter which I assume is the crossover. Even though the front looks like a 3-way system, and technically it is, it is not tri-wired, it is wired like a two-way from the amp.
These specs are for a E46 Coupe with HK, 4 door sedans are different because the front doors are shorter.
Note: These are the stock demension...this does not mean that this is the max speaker size you can fit. There is clearly some room for a deeper and larger 6.5midbass in the front lower doors with some trimming of the plastic. There is also probably another 20mm of additional depth available. Which would mean you can probably make a speaker with a overal depth of 65mm+20mm for 85mm/3.35in work there depending on how you mounted it.
Nice info cheers mate...so with this wiring there is no mention of the wires that I assume go from the main hk amp to the 6x9 rear subs. Is their signal and wires the same as the 'mid bass' rears? Ive ripped out the hk amp but just want to maybe save the effort of running new speaker wire if i end up replacing the 6x9's. Cheers
 
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