E46 Fanatics Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I hit a curb sideways (yeah I was playing around and I’m stupid) and my right rear wheel now has massive positive camber and it is ”locked”. Can’t push the car and it was locked when we towed the car for a little bit. Also I think my right driveshaft snapped because it spins when I put it in drive but the car wont move and it makes really bad cracking sound. Left one did not spin like the right one. How bad could the damage be. How much it is gonna cost approximately with new/used parts. I could either take it to a mechanic ot fix it with help of my friends. Only problem is that we don’t have a lift so se would just lift the rear up with regular jack.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Water
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,409 Posts
Wheel, axle broken, control arms messed up, maybe an issue with the diff as well. Can't think of how the sway bar is attached but I wonder if that will be bent. Use JACK STANDS and NOT a jack of any type to work on the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
I agree with Cylon, all or most of those parts will need replacing, like sway bar end links, maybe the shock mounts or shock and a good alignment. If you do the work yourself, you will save some money. It also depends on if you find used parts vs new. Replacing the diff will be the most expensive if that was compromised. Budget a least a $1000 for now, but could double in a hurry.
FYI: A friend hit a curb a couple years ago, took it to a shop, and was quoted $800 to replace parts, but once they went to align the car, they noticed other parts that were bent and had to be replaced, increasing the cost to $1800.
Good Luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I had the SAME EXACT PROBLEM a year ago on the same side (except i was just calmy driving...). I documented it a bit in my posts.
basically lower control arm completly fkd. Axle fkd. wheel & tire fkd. as far as i'm concerned, that was it (20 mph, straight into the curb)

I did end up changing : the trailing arm because the axle was stucked; the diff for performance gains; the sway bar + endlinks for performance gains. went with poly bushes later on all around.
the only thing i'd recommend is dismentling the whole rear subframe if you can. few month after my accident, i was reinforcing it and a small cracked started, so idk if i can attribut it to the accident.

keep in mind after my whole process, i can't seem to make the rear toe good enough on the opposite side of the accident, which can be explained either by : the whole diff carrier is fkd, or upper control arms, or the new poly bushings (powerflex RTAB) are not well positioned.

Either you replace most of the things except opposite axle and diff (if okay), or like me, you replace what you can tell looks broken. First option is pricey but a lot of "while i'm in there" + good maintenance. Second one can make you dismantled the whole rear end (+ alignement each time) few time to make everything right.

Stay mostly with used part, brand new trailling arm is crazy expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
And I did it all by myself outside on floor jack. it cost me a lot with all the upgrades plus tires plus wheel (bbs) plus alignement plus a lot of tools I didn't have.
let's say to make it drive again it would be (if the damaged are like mine) 800$ max, even less if you only need axle,lower arm, wheel. but for me it was well over 2k$ with the new diff, poly bushes plus tools, michelin wide tires, and you name it....
 

·
Premium Member
2003 325i Touring
Joined
·
5,221 Posts
I'm just going to echo what's been said above. First step is to get the car (safely) in the air and assess. After and impact like that BMW recommends replacing the wheel bearing due to the loads applied. A used trailing arm will have a wheelbearing and hub in it. Just make sure you get the replacement parts from the same car as yours. 330s have different trailing arms, axles, and parking brake assemblies, IIRC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replys. I took it to a shop this morning. I don’t have garage and the weather is pretty bad for working on it outside (snow, cold, wet). The diff probably needed to be replaced anyways because it was making a weird sound for a while and I got told it might be from the diff. Next week I should get some information what is up with the car and what parts need replacing. Just hoping that there is no subframe cracks or any other frame damage. Gonna be expensive lesson to learn for me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Thanks for the replys. I took it to a shop this morning. I don’t have garage and the weather is pretty bad for working on it outside (snow, cold, wet). The diff probably needed to be replaced anyways because it was making a weird sound for a while and I got told it might be from the diff. Next week I should get some information what is up with the car and what parts need replacing. Just hoping that there is no subframe cracks or any other frame damage. Gonna be expensive lesson to learn for me!
might just be the bushing...you should dig into that yourself to prevent a 3-4k$ bill popping from that shop....
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top