Replacement is not a hard job and the part is not expensive. I paid $19 for the set - hey, they are just rubber, not a high-tech part. However, a P0171/0174 is not a guarantee that the Intake Boot is cracked. I found no flaws in mine when I replaced them for the random P0171/0174 Codes. I've since replaced my Fuel Pump and haven't seen a code since. Unless you've seen the crack or stuck your finger in it, do not accept what someone else says. The P0171/0174 can be a vacuum leak but is far from a certainty.

 

Here is the genuine BMW part you need for $15 from FCPEuro. They offer a lifetime warranty on all their products. You should pay $15+shipping for this repair. It's easy to do yourself and instructions can be found here. If you are having a dealer do it, expect to pay 1 to 1.5 hours of labor plus the part. Since it's a relatively simple job, there aren't too many things that can be checked but I would recommend checking (or having your mechanic check) the DISA valve, upper intake boot, and throttle body. Be warned, this repair may not fix your codes. The CCV and attached noses are notorious for becoming brittle and cracking. Replacing these hoses is a long job. Good luck!

 

Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

If you have a smart phone or table, get an OBDII App and interface so you can read the codes along with Live/Realtime or Freeze Frame data then you will know exactly what is going on with the engine fuel management system.

The OBDFusion App and proper VeePeak interface from Amazon are less than $30 for both for iProducts, less than $20 for both for Android

OBDFusion for Android is is $3.99.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Blue.../B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487373393&sr=8-1&keywords=veepeak+bluetooth

OBDFusion, for the iProducts it is $9.99.

For iProducts you NEED a Wifi adapter or LE Bluetooth adapter which are more expensive and VeePeak does not offer a low cost LE Bluetooth Low Energy interface. If you choose LE Bluetooth interface, it MUST be one that is listed as supported on the OBDFusion web site. I think the Carista interface is the most reliable.

iProducts requires Wifi - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486113891&sr=sr-1&keywords=veepeak

 

This is really just the beginning of a process that thankfully has an end. Your code is not "torn boot" it is lean, and it is triggered at a relatively high level where it could just be the boot, but is more likely a bunch of degraded rubber parts, most of which are really cheap.

When I was in your spot, I started replacing onsie-twosie parts, but eventually I just replaced all the rubber vacuum parts.

At a minimum, replace both boots. You have to disconnect the upper to get to the lower, and it is like $20 at the dealer and less at FCP with a warranty. Hardest part is loosening the cable clamps on the lower boot, but with patience and creativity you can get it off. In my case it was impatience and anger, but that is another story.

 

Hardest part is loosening the cable clamps on the lower boot, but with patience and creativity you can get it off.

Yes, because if it is the factory installed boot, the nut on the clamp will likely be pointed DOWN, as if tightened BEFORE the engine was installed. I found this socket wrench quite useful. And of course, when I reinstalled the clamp, I oriented the tightening nut UP.

 

This is what I use, can do this from under the hood and can swap the lower intake boot in about 10 minutes once I have the airbox and upper intake boot out of the way.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14120561&postcount=147

The long screw driver is to swivel/slide the small hose clamp around so I can get direct access to the clamp screw head to really loosen the clamp up to get it over the ICV hump.

But as mentioned, your car is at an age that the CCV and hoses, valve cover gasket, other vacuum hoses need to be replaced. You may have cracks in the valve cover, a leaking power brake booster and so forth.

The OFHG needs to be replaced as well based on the inspection report and if this is off it makes the CCV replacement much easier.

Many oil pan gasket leaks are acutely due to the CCV leaking oil, the OFHG leaking or the lack of proper crankcase vacuum due to a bad CCV and/or valve cover gaskets leaks or cracks. Often solving the lack of crankcase vacuum or the other oil leaks solve the assumed oil pan gasket leak. But the oil pan gaskets can leak as well, but I would leave this to dead last in the big scheme of repairs.

 

The ECS Tuning page is not showing the part in the link you provided as a fit for my car for some reason; do you think that is an error on their part?

my car is a 2004 330ci ZHP...

this was the link:https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...3547514867/?utm_source=eBayCommerce&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=US.ShoppingFeed

 

Autozone sells the lower intake boot for $7. Expect to have to wait for shipping. Took a day for mine to get to the store.


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics

 

I appreciate the collective input! Maybe I will give it a try! I dont have a garage or the proper tools...so I appreciate the advice on that. I will purchase the tools and parts and look for a good time to use my dad's garage. I know my car is coming up on that 75,000 mi. mark. I would like to keep it for many years and just want to make sure that I perform the proper maintenance on the car because I am absolutely in love with the way it commands the road. I know that there are some jobs that I will have to have a shop do for me...just trying to figure that out and chip away over time...

 

I appreciate the collective input! Maybe I will give it a try! I dont have a garage or the proper tools...so I appreciate the advice on that. I will purchase the tools and parts and look for a good time to use my dad's garage. I know my car is coming up on that 75,000 mi. mark. I would like to keep it for many years and just want to make sure that I perform the proper maintenance on the car because I am absolutely in love with the way it commands the road. I know that there are some jobs that I will have to have a shop do for me...just trying to figure that out and chip away over time...

You dont need a garage to change this part.
10 minutes or so in the driveway and its done.

 

Has anyone tried the silicon Upper and Lower Intake Boots?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mishimoto-parts/silicone-intake-boot-kit-black/mmhosee46330ibk~/

 

The reviews speak for themselves... :facepalm:

 

DO NOT waste your money on silicon intake boots, you can change the boots 2-3 times for the cost of most silicon intake boots. If you have your car this long, you will want access to the ICV and throttle body anyway.

Waste of money as the intake boots last 10-12 years typically, just replace them every 10 years and do not worry about it.

 

Copy that! The link to a boot on ECS Tuning is indicating that it is not a fit for my car. Thoughts?

2004 330CIc ZHP

Thank you all for the help, the links, and the suggestions for tools!

 

I searched RealOem.com and it appears that the part number for the 330Ci is indeed different from the part for a 325Ci. See this link: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-06-2004-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=13_0905

 

Thank you all so much for chiming in to help this newbie out with the lower intake boot replacement! It took me way to long because I was very cautious each time I encountered a challenge. I also dropped one 6mm wrench and 1 10mm ICV bolt into the abyss of my engine compartment never to return. I had to go to the hardware store twice to replace these items!

Here are my takeaways/notes the things that held me up a bit:

1) I knew that I needed to use needle nose pliers to remove the little clamps on the air intake, but, was unsure if they twist off, or if you pushed on them etc... Obviously I realize now that you simply grip them with the pliers and pull them out away from the engine bay.

2) One the upper boot was removed, I had a ton of trouble accessing the the clamp bolt that holds the lower intake boot to the throttle body. I think it was jfoj who said he uses a blad to cut a large part of the lower boot off to gain easier access; this helped quite a bit. But, I hadn'r seen it specified that a 6mm wrench would be the best tool to utilize to get that bolt loose if it is in the original factory position behind the Lower boot. I did eventually figure this out. I also removed the ICV to gain even better access. I did not see this step included in most tutorials, but it did help quite a bit both in removing, and re-installing the lower boot.

3) I wish I would have had some throttle body cleaner to clean the throttle body and ICV...I'll prob pull it all apart again soon and do this.

4) I didn't see any info on how to best position the clamp bolts during reassembly. I kind of did my own thing on this and will post pictures below of how I oriented them.

5) If I had to do this again, I feel like I could do it in a very short amount of time! I am glad I did it myself and feel like I got to know my car much better! With the exception of the clamp on the lower boot, this was a very easy job and the engineers at BMW made this part of the car very intuitive and user friendly to work on.

 

Trust me, Arizona HEAT will eat up ALL the rubber components between 7/10 years. You are now on borrowed time. The only way to fix your car where it will be dependable is by removing the intake manifold and replacing ALL the plastic/rubber components. It's not difficult just time consuming. Give yourself a week and take your time. I did this on mine and ALL the hoses were dried out to the point of dust. Oh yea, last week it was 111 degrees. More dried out rubber.

 

redfeathers; Any Good videos, threads, or tutorials on doing something this extensive?

Any lists of parts?

I was planning to replace some parts of my cooling system next, especially the Engine Coolant Reservoir...