E46 Fanatics Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 01 325i. Bought the car two days ago and it drove fine, no cel or anything. Next day a cel came on and the car idle rough. The rpms will go up and down and going through the gears you can tell its a powerloss. I have a obd2 scanner and when i erased the codes and started the car it would idle a little rough then be fine for about 30 miles. Came back on and ran rough. Turned car off and restart it and ran fine. It runs fine sometimes but the cel will be on. What can this be the codes are. Like i said the car runs awesome sometimes then idles/runs like poop. Thanks for input.
p0102-mass volume air-flow circuit low input
p1347-system control ignition misfire cyl 3
p1345-cyl #2 misfire w/fuel cut off
p1343-system control ignition miss fire cyl 1
p1349-misfire cyl 4 w fuel cutoff
p1353-misfire cyl 6 w fuel cut off
p1351-missfire cyl 5 w fuel cut off
p0171-lean bank 1
p1074-lean bank 2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Do a compression test. My car does something similar. Dealership claimed I have a worn intake cam. It doesn't allow enough air in. Its only worn on my Cyl. 5. The ecu will see that cylinder running rough and shut it off, via spark and fuel cut. When you restart the car, it will try the cylinder again until it runs too rough.

If you find it to be something different let me know!
 

·
Registered
2016 340i xD 6-spd
Joined
·
26,765 Posts
i have a 01 325i. Bought the car two days ago and it drove fine, no cel or anything. Next day a cel came on and the car idle rough. The rpms will go up and down and going through the gears you can tell its a powerloss. I have a obd2 scanner and when i erased the codes and started the car it would idle a little rough then be fine for about 30 miles. Came back on and ran rough. Turned car off and restart it and ran fine. It runs fine sometimes but the cel will be on. What can this be the codes are. Like i said the car runs awesome sometimes then idles/runs like poop. Thanks for input.
p0102-mass volume air-flow circuit low input
p1347-system control ignition misfire cyl 3
p1345-cyl #2 misfire w/fuel cut off
p1343-system control ignition miss fire cyl 1
p1349-misfire cyl 4 w fuel cutoff
p1353-misfire cyl 6 w fuel cut off
p1351-missfire cyl 5 w fuel cut off
p0171-lean bank 1
p1074-lean bank 2
Try disconnecting the maf, and while in the neighborhood, maybe check the air filter too. I suspect being a new car to you, you'll find many things not correct, and your symptoms might be the sign of a few of them coming together.

Did you add gas to it since you got it? If so, 91 minimum octane...most use 93 I think...and from a 'name' gas source. You do anything else since you got it...like lovingly rinse the engine off with degreaser and a powerwasher? Anything you did that forgot to mention? Just asking...not accusing!

Doug
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Do a compression test. My car does something similar. Dealership claimed I have a worn intake cam. It doesn't allow enough air in. Its only worn on my Cyl. 5. The ecu will see that cylinder running rough and shut it off, via spark and fuel cut. When you restart the car, it will try the cylinder again until it runs too rough.

If you find it to be something different let me know!
Was this your problem and if so what was the fix? My car is throwing massive amounts of codes. It will run fine, then idle / bogged down. If I turn the car off and back on again half the time it runs fine and half the time the problem is still there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
607 Posts
I would replace your camshaft position sensors. They aren't too bad price wise, about 130 i think for both and definitely a DIY capable job. Also, check your intake boots to see if they are cracked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
607 Posts
In order to get to your intake boots, you gotta take the maf off, clean that and than you will have access to your ICV as well, clean that up too. I did this not too long ago and it runs like a charm now :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Shouldnt camshaft and crankshaft sensor affect only when you're trying to start the engine and it gives you a long start up? Sorry if im wrong, but a friend had his cam and crank sensors busted at the same time.. The car idles/runs fine, but it just takes damn long to start..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,350 Posts
Ignore the mention of crankshaft/camshaft sensor replacement, you have no codes indicating any type of issue there. No need to just throw $100 parts at the issue.
The crankshaft sensor is used for ignition timing, the intake cam sensor will be used for ignition timing if the crankshaft sensor fails.
The intake / exhaust cam sensors are primarily used for VANOS cam timing and monitoring.

Clear the codes and disconnect the MAF, it will set a code but drive the car and see if the lean codes still return. If they do it indicates a vacuum leak, the ECU will use predefined fuel injection values based on engine speed / temp when the MAF is unplugged.

Work on the lean codes first. They can cause the misfire codes.
The most common cause of lean codes on both banks is the lower intake boot, it develops cracks, usually in the "folds" so they are hard to see when the boot is installed.

Clean your MAF with CRC MAF cleaner (available from your local parts store) while you have it off to check the lower intake boot.

Then check the vacuum line that runs to the secondary air pump valve (on the passenger side front of the engine). It is exposed to high exhaust manifold temps and becomes brittle.
Also remove the spark plug cover and check the secondary air pump vacuum line around the back of the engine.

Pull your plugs / coils while you have the cover off. Check their condition, replace with NGK / Bosch 4 prong platinum plugs if they look worn/fouled. They normally are a 100,000 mile replacement item.
Check coil number 1 for signs of arcing, also look closely at the spark plug boot for signs of arcing / deterioration, replace if questionable.

The DISA also has been a common source of vacuum leaks, spray a little maf cleaner around it's seal whit the engine running to see if the engine speed changes.

Check the hoses for the CCV (CrankCase ventilation) they sometimes are the cause of vacuum leaks.

The valve cover gaskets are another source of vacuum leaks (through the CCV system).

Next time you fill up, add a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner, then fill the tank. That will help clean the injectors whicj can also contribute to the lean condition.

If all this checks out you might test the fuel pump pressure at the rail a low pressure can also cause lean codes. (it should be about 50 psi +- 3 psi)
If it is low, first replace the fuel filter, retest pressure. If still low it is probably the fuel pump. Test the fuel pump volume (see a Bentley manual of do a search here for the fuel pump test procedures)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Ignore the mention of crankshaft/camshaft sensor replacement, you have no codes indicating any type of issue there. No need to just throw $100 parts at the issue.
The crankshaft sensor is used for ignition timing, the intake cam sensor will be used for ignition timing if the crankshaft sensor fails.
The intake / exhaust cam sensors are primarily used for VANOS cam timing and monitoring.

Clear the codes and disconnect the MAF, it will set a code but drive the car and see if the lean codes still return. If they do it indicates a vacuum leak, the ECU will use predefined fuel injection values based on engine speed / temp when the MAF is unplugged.

Work on the lean codes first. They can cause the misfire codes.
The most common cause of lean codes on both banks is the lower intake boot, it develops cracks, usually in the "folds" so they are hard to see when the boot is installed.

Clean your MAF with CRC MAF cleaner (available from your local parts store) while you have it off to check the lower intake boot.

Then check the vacuum line that runs to the secondary air pump valve (on the passenger side front of the engine). It is exposed to high exhaust manifold temps and becomes brittle.
Also remove the spark plug cover and check the secondary air pump vacuum line around the back of the engine.

Pull your plugs / coils while you have the cover off. Check their condition, replace with NGK / Bosch 4 prong platinum plugs if they look worn/fouled. They normally are a 100,000 mile replacement item.
Check coil number 1 for signs of arcing, also look closely at the spark plug boot for signs of arcing / deterioration, replace if questionable.

The DISA also has been a common source of vacuum leaks, spray a little maf cleaner around it's seal whit the engine running to see if the engine speed changes.

Check the hoses for the CCV (CrankCase ventilation) they sometimes are the cause of vacuum leaks.

The valve cover gaskets are another source of vacuum leaks (through the CCV system).

Next time you fill up, add a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner, then fill the tank. That will help clean the injectors whicj can also contribute to the lean condition.

If all this checks out you might test the fuel pump pressure at the rail a low pressure can also cause lean codes. (it should be about 50 psi +- 3 psi)
If it is low, first replace the fuel filter, retest pressure. If still low it is probably the fuel pump. Test the fuel pump volume (see a Bentley manual of do a search here for the fuel pump test procedures)
Best advice given by Shanneba to check for vacuum leaks and obvious problems before throwing money to replace things indiscriminately.

Just want to stress the importance of checking the CCV (or Oil Separator) hoses. It was the culprit of my problems, in addtion to a bad lower intake boot. See this link to check for the CCV hose that commonly breaks on these cars:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright first id like to thank everyone that is giving me some help, i really appreciate as im new to the bimmer game, you guys are awesome.
But to answer some question. Ive just replaced the intake valve gasket yesterday, it was leaking a bit from the middle part of gasket where to plugs go. still is a bit but got rid of the smoke/smell.
Im going to be replacing the maf, and checking everything that all has said. free/cheaper things first. I wil keep everyone posted on what has helped and what codes are still on with what ive done. Im going to be starting starting today. But like ive said i really appreciate taking time to put some input into my concern. Thanks!
Joe
 

·
Registered
2016 340i xD 6-spd
Joined
·
26,765 Posts
Replacing the maf? You cleaned it? You know of hyundai maf for less $?

Running oiled filter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25,510 Posts
DON'T REPLACE THE MAF! :rofl:

lol, that cost a fortune and it's such a simple part that doesn't go bad very often. I'd bet money on all your problems coming from an old cracked hose causing a vacuum leak to your intake somewhere. Very common issue that is inexpensive to fix, but definitely kinda annoying to find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so this is what I've done so far. Cleared codes then disconnected maf sensor. Its been about 30 miles and car runs/idles normal.(Knocks on woodgrain inside car.) I also took off the intake boot that connects to throttle body. Actually I took the first half off and inspected and left 2nd half on and visually inspected and look pretty good. No codes so far tho. Prly will come soon. I'll post later on since ill hr driving places. THanks ,Joe

Sent from my ADR6300 using Bimmer App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,350 Posts
Hopefully you are driving somewhere to get some MAF cleaner :)
When you clean it, check the connections very carefully for corrosion, the 102 code indicates the MAF is not giving valid information at times.
It seems from your symptoms, it is intermittent. Do you know anyone with a 325 that you could swap MAFs as a test?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Car is still running fine and no cel has came on yet with the maf sensor disconnected. Does that mean its the maf?

Sent from my ADR6300 using Bimmer App
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top