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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So lately I'v been having some weird electrical issues. First, I noticed that my blinker was stuck on after turning and wouldn't turn off until I turned off the car and took out the key. Now, the green turn indicators on the cluster don't light up at all and there's no blinker "click" although the turn signals are working properly.

Also, sometimes it says that the passenger or driver door is ajar when it is not. This is also random and alternates between doors.

The hi-beam and fog indicators do not light up

The warning that your seat belt is unbuckled also stays on constantly.

Any help is appreciated! Thank you!! :hi:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I also found out that the relay unit in the steering column causes the turn indicator problem and can sometimes be fixed with contactor cleaner. Haven't tried that yet but I'm worried that something else may be the culprit.
 

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I'd have your battery tested (autozone)
When the battery begins to fail, many odd electrical gremlins starts to occur in our bimmers.
That's the easiest and quickest fault to check for first.

Let us know what they say and we'll go from there.

(Is it an original battery? How many miles are on your ride?)
 

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2016 340i xD 6-spd
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On the battery...since it's fresh in my mind (I had a no start due to a battery gone bad yesterday--mine was 6 years old).

Don't just trust the cluster test, as just before my no start, I'd ironically been doing it for voltage...I was at 12.2 V. I kick started the car, drove to shop, where it started four times afterwards. I tested with a little meter they had and it said about 75-80% and I thought, okay, it is probably starter.

Then I heard that those little handheld testers are really pretty lame, as in, they can't simulate anything close to the load a car starting puts on it. You need a real machine for that. Also, I'm sorry to say, that when I used the meter, on my own, I just arbitrarily told it to test for the CCA that it came up with first time...660. I didn't remove the cover and learn that my 49DL was supposed to be 850 CCA. Stupid little error, the sort panicked, desperate people make when trying to fix their own cars! My battery was at 51% when loaded tested on a real machine.

Anywhoooo...if the autozone guy testing your battery has a tiny little machine, it might tell you the voltage is fine, but you need to know the amps you have, which means, if the guy testing it doesn't remove the cover or otherwise look something up for CCA, then they're probably not testing your battery properly. Be warned!

Sorry for the long post...seemed like an appropriate place to document my recent learnings!

BMW battery requires at least 700+CCA (maybe 750).

Oh, btw, they looked up my old Duralast battery from my phone number and told me I could get $30 off their price. Ended up being $90, though it should have been $78--they took my old battery but charged me for the core. I'll have to fix that someday!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On the battery...since it's fresh in my mind (I had a no start due to a battery gone bad yesterday--mine was 6 years old).

Don't just trust the cluster test, as just before my no start, I'd ironically been doing it for voltage...I was at 12.2 V. I kick started the car, drove to shop, where it started four times afterwards. I tested with a little meter they had and it said about 75-80% and I thought, okay, it is probably starter.

Then I heard that those little handheld testers are really pretty lame, as in, they can't simulate anything close to the load a car starting puts on it. You need a real machine for that. Also, I'm sorry to say, that when I used the meter, on my own, I just arbitrarily told it to test for the CCA that it came up with first time...660. I didn't remove the cover and learn that my 49DL was supposed to be 850 CCA. Stupid little error, the sort panicked, desperate people make when trying to fix their own cars! My battery was at 51% when loaded tested on a real machine.

Anywhoooo...if the autozone guy testing your battery has a tiny little machine, it might tell you the voltage is fine, but you need to know the amps you have, which means, if the guy testing it doesn't remove the cover or otherwise look something up for CCA, then they're probably not testing your battery properly. Be warned!

Sorry for the long post...seemed like an appropriate place to document my recent learnings!

BMW battery requires at least 700+CCA (maybe 750).

Oh, btw, they looked up my old Duralast battery from my phone number and told me I could get $30 off their price. Ended up being $90, though it should have been $78--they took my old battery but charged me for the core. I'll have to fix that someday!
Thanks for the reply. I actually have a commercial load tester so that's what I'll try first. I'll try the cluster test while I'm at it too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd have your battery tested (autozone)
When the battery begins to fail, many odd electrical gremlins starts to occur in our bimmers.
That's the easiest and quickest fault to check for first.

Let us know what they say and we'll go from there.

(Is it an original battery? How many miles are on your ride?)
I'll do a load test and post back with the results.

nice sig btw
 

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All the problems sound like K-bus issues EXCEPT the seat belt buckle indicator. This points to the cluster being the source of the problem or you have two problems, 1) something on the K-bus causing all the problems except the seat belt buckle and 2) a bad sensor or wire for the seat belt buckle. I do NOT suspect the battery to be a possible cause.
The next time the turn signals, fogs or high beams fail to register correctly on the dash try the stereo controls on the steering wheel. If they work properly and the other items don't then the cluster might be bad. If they also don't work then it's definitely a K-bus issue and it could any one of the many modules on the K-bus causing the problem. You will need to disconnect each of the modules individually and see which one when disconnected solves the problem.
 
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