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Discussion Starter #1
I need help from anyone who's done this mod. I hooked up my Genie garage door opener remote to the high beam leads after shorting the button switch. The problem I'm having is that the garage door opener only works when the key is in postion two w/o the engine runnning. If the engine is running, then it doesn't work. It also doesn't work if I don't have the headlights off and I flash to pass. I put a voltmeter on it in all postions and it's getting the same ~11.7 volts. I tried this mod from a post by nEVERCLEAR on this thread:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114466

Thanks.
 

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That sucks dude. I was going to do this mod too.
I would think the problem has something to do with the relay firing at the wrong time. I don't know why it wouldn't work with engine running.
Sorry
Let me know if and how you get it fixed.
I'm sure someone will be able to help.
 

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Try putting a relay in and using the high beam power supply for the switch lead. I had troubles in my S2000 till I weatherproofed the remote.

Where do you have the remote mounted, if it is in the dash or under a bunch of wires or metal the signal may no be getting to the garage door opener.

If you are getting +- 12 volts and it is not working than you may need to reduce the voltage to the opener, did you check what the voltage of the battery in the remote is? If it is not 10-14 volts go to Radio Shack and talk to them about a resistor to reduce the voltage.

Also where did you pick up the groud for the garage door remtoe. IT should not be the same as the headlight, get the switch lead fromt he head light and ground the relay and remote seperately from the headlight circuits.
This should minimize any problem to the headlight system from bad wiring.

Good Luck
 

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LLLong post

A few other things,

Are your lights (+) or (-) switched.

You can check this by testing the positive wire to a volt meter and grounding the negative sid eof the volt meter to a known constant groung ( metal in engine compartment) if you get power on and off by flashing the high beams than it is a (+) switched system. do the same thing but in reverse to check the (-) side. Attach the (+) lead to the volt meter to the (+) terminal under the flap on the passenger side and the (-) to the (-) of the headlight assembly. Depending on which way it is you use the switched side as the swith wire to make the relay work.

Doe syour car have BiXenon, that wiring is different, but I think the halogen bulbs still funtion as the flash to pass. If yuo are gettting the proper power fluctuations than you just need to get the power supplied to the remote properly.

I don't have a garage here at school so I have not hooked it up to my 323, but it has worked on several cars in the past
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks nEVERCLEAR but you're just a day too late. I got fed up and pulled it all out. I put the battery back in and re-soldered the remote to a couple of Radio Shack momentary swithes. Then I mounted the switches in the microphone cover and shoved the remote in a space in the headliner.

FYI for you and Clos2pin: I originally wired the remote straight to the high beam wires and two-side-taped it in that open space under the hood by the + battery terminal. The Genie remote battery is 12 volts. The high beam is (+) switched. I was getting ~12 volts from the high beam when on.

I tried a relay but don't know how it works so I had it wired all wrong. Let me get this straight just in case I try again. The high beam power supply goes to the switched lead (#87). The ground lead (#86) goes to a ground other than the high beam ground wire. The 12 volt in lead (#85) goes to the + battery terminal. The 12 volt out lead (#30) goes to the remote +. The remote - goes to another ground.
 

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Typical positive switched lead relay setup is:
(30) 12V+ VDC, Battery connection
(85) Grounded to chassis
(86) 12+ VDC Switch lead, Positive lead from headlight
(87) Relay controlled output 12+VDC, goes to garage Remote

This link shows a diagram for the wiring of relays

 

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Is the Flash to pass lever (pulling back) the same wire as pushing your lever to have the high beams on and stay on the same wire?

I don't use my Flash to pass... and I would like to have that funtion to turn my high beam WigWags and or Strobes on.

But I still want to be able to turn on my High Beams when I push the lever.

What color is that wire and where can I find it...

I know how to wire cars very well so just tell me how it the lever works on the E46 2000 Sedan 328i NON-Xenon

Dave

I have the full police package on my car with 100watt Siren/pa, LED flashers, 90W strobes, wigwags, traffic backers, and mirror led flashers.

Ever see a BMW pull someone over?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I tried to do all the wiring within the engine compartment and at the high beam light. There are only two wires that goes into the high beam. The flash-to-pass is the same as pushing the lever which only locks the lever in place and I think that it uses the same wire in the lever wiring harness. I was trying to use the positive lead at the light to trip a relay for the garage door opener remote. It would trip in either position of the the lever so it wouldn't be a good switch to use for your WigWags.

Post some pics with all your lights on.
 

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you could easily just add a button. The idea is to not have to add any extra swtches and integrate it into the car like it is OEM.

I dont know how to make it work for wig-wags or anything that you would not want on the entire time the high beams are on.
 
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