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LeverThis....I got the nut started but I haven't hit with the torque wrench yet. The shaft is even with the nut so I'll probably go ahead and bottom the nut and then start trying to align the spring on the pads. What's the final torque spec on that nut?
I don't remember torque spec offhand, but its in the 30 to 35 ft-lb neighborhood I think. It should be on newtis.info

I cant remember if I bottomed out the nut before decompressing the spring or if I did that later with the car on the ground.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I don't want the nut popping off so I'm going to do it now.

I don't remember torque spec offhand, but its in the 30 to 35 ft-lb neighborhood I think. It should be on newtis.info

I cant remember if I bottomed out the nut before decompressing the spring or if I did that later with the car on the ground.
 
I don't want the nut popping off so I'm going to do it now.
If the nut is completely on the threads (with a few threads sticking through it) it wont go anywhere even if not fully torqued down, but no harm in bottoming it out I suppose. Just make sure the spring compressors dont get knocked and slip while you are tightening things down.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I'll get the nut in with a few threads sticking out and then try seating the spring. There are four compessors on that spring so it will be hard to slip while tightening the nut. I don't know how I'm going to get the strut back in now that it's probably going to be taller now that the strut is good. lol
 
I'll get the nut in with a few threads sticking out and then try seating the spring. There are four compessors on that spring so it will be hard to slip while tightening the nut. I don't know how I'm going to get the strut back in now that it's probably going to be taller now that the strut is good. lol
The height will be determined by the spring, not the strut. The strut just dampers the spring.
 
G'day,

I had a right laugh doing this job too.

I knew its a close call getting spring compressors that dont end up "bottoming out" so to speak before compressing the spring & thought I'd bought the right ones to do the job, based on the springs coil size etc.

The strut had other ideas. The ones i bought were good quality, but i just needed a bit more. I ended up borrowing a mates set & used those in conjunction with mine to do the job no worries.

As others have said, this can be a dangerous job if you dont approach it with caution but if done so, its not too bad.
Like others have said, lay the strut down away from you & anything you cherish in your garage/driveway if things go pear shaped.

Some people also strategically place a few shop towels around in case the thing turns into a missile !

I think those compressors linked in one of the previous posts look better for this type of short spring.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Today I try lining up the springs on the pads. Wish me luck!
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I've got the spring on but the bottom is not totally on the bottom pad.



Otherwise the spring looks good.

 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I was afraid of that! :-(
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Where does the lower part of the spring seat? I looked at my old strut and pad and it looks like it doesn't sit in the dip on the mount. I should have taken better pictures before I took it apart.
 

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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Just found a picture. It doesn't fit in that dip. Weird!
 

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Discussion starter · #33 ·
I believe I have the spring mounted correctly on the pads now. I haven't bottomed out the nut yet. I tried and the shaft was spinning. Do I need to grab the piston with a cloth and vise grips to keep it from spinning?

I have the Schwaben Strut Nut Socket but I guess you can't use an impact wrench with it. Do I need to compress the spring to bottom the nut or just put it on the car and finished it there?
 

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This looks much better. I know its ill-advised, but I spin my top nut on with an electric impact. I didn't hit the s*** out of it, just spun it on until it started to click and stopped immediately. Went back with a ratchet to verify and all has been good for 45K miles.
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
I actually did it by hand. Used the 22 mm strut socket and a 7 mm long reach allen wrench. I didn't have the spring compressed but it didn't take too long.
 

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Discussion starter · #37 ·
Megalocnus....One is already on the car! The second strut went so much faster after struggling with the first one. I put three compressors on it but I could have gotten away with just the two.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Job completed! Not so hard! Didn't have to take the brake caliper off like the 50skid recommended.

It does seem to be higher in the front now (maybe it's my imagination).



 
Job completed! Not so hard! Didn't have to take the brake caliper off like the 50skid recommended.

It does seem to be higher in the front now (maybe it's my imagination).

View attachment 764709

View attachment 764711
If they are new springs they will settle in after a few miles. I use a vise grips on the shaft near the mount to hold it, even if it would nick it, that part would never get near the seal in the body if the strut.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
They are the same springs. lol
 
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