BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 00 328ci my engine is over heating... and leaking coolant.. the reason this all started is the fan wasn’t plugged in the sensor got unplugged and it over heated and exploded on the side of the road... coolant was everywhere. Since then I bought a new expansion tank and expansion tank mount because the old one broke comming off.. i am still leaking. I can’t find the right o rings at auto zone or anywhere. They don’t have them! My car is still overheating and leaking.. I think it may need a thermostat or water pump because it’s still overheating and when I tried to bleed the system I noticed there was no heat. I’m 18 years old and can’t really afford to have it fixed at a shop and i am more of a do it myself kind of guy. Anybody know anything that could help? Also I had to take the transmission cooler off to install it and now it’s throwing the transmission light at me...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
978 Posts
Okay Fuzwuz, take a breath here...

These cars don't take overheats very well. If they overheat for more than 30-60 seconds, it's rare you can simply fix them by replacing reservoirs or hoses or thermostat. What happens when thee cars overheat is the head warps or the head gasket leaks. both are very expensive fixes, let's hope that's not your issue.

Here is what I would do:

1. Where is it leaking right now?...with the car running at idle at operating temp - but not overheating - where is the leak? fix that leak.
2. Have you bled the cooling system properly? you cannot simply add coolant to these cars, it MUST be bled. Search on-line
3. If after bleeding, it still overheats, go borrow a compression tester from Autozone and measure compression in all 6 cylinders..or pay a mechanic to do it.
4. report back your findings
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Okay Fuzwuz, take a breath here...

These cars don't take overheats very well. If they overheat for more than 30-60 seconds, it's rare you can simply fix them by replacing reservoirs or hoses or thermostat. What happens when thee cars overheat is the head warps or the head gasket leaks. both are very expensive fixes, let's hope that's not your issue.

Here is what I would do:

1. Where is it leaking right now?...with the car running at idle at operating temp - but not overheating - where is the leak? fix that leak.
2. Have you bled the cooling system properly? you cannot simply add coolant to these cars, it MUST be bled. Search on-line
3. If after bleeding, it still overheats, go borrow a compression tester from Autozone and measure compression in all 6 cylinders..or pay a mechanic to do it.
4. report back your findings
It looks like it’s leaking from the bottom hose on the expansion tank. And yeah I know about the head gaskets... and warping the heads. I don’t think I did. As soon as I noticed my car was in the red I shut it off. I start the car once in a while to move parking spots and it runs fine runs great just over heats so I don’t believe I warped the heads or blew the head gasket.. I’ve been putting water in it because it leaks out and I don’t have money to waste in coolant. I did bleed it I took the bleeder screw off until bubbles came out. And put more in. I fixed all the leaks at one point and I went for a drive and it strting getting hot and then leaking again.... I bleed it I believe properly... turned the heat up but the heat wasn’t working..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,206 Posts
When you bled the system, did you do it this way? (borrowed from willsbma post here):

Start with the engine cold!

Remove the small black bleed screw from the elbow that connects to the expansion tank.

Remove the coolant filler cap

Turn the ignition on but do not start the engine

Turn the climate control to the highest temperature and put the fan on the lowest setting

Slowly pour coolant into the expansion tank until coolant runs out of the bleed screw hole

keep pouring coolant until you no longer see any air bubbles in the coolant coming out of the bleed screw hole

Replace the bleed screw and check the coolant level in the expansion tank

Replace the expansion tank cap and start the motor

Allow the car to idle until normal operating temperature is reached

Watch carefully to make sure the temperature gauge doesn't rise above 12:00

If the gauge starts to move past 12:00 shut the car off immediately, let it cool and start over

After a few minutes of idling at normal temp it is safe to assume there is a minimal amount of air in the system. Take the car for a quick test drive, carefully watching the temperature. If all is well congrats, you have completed your task, if not, you may still have air in the system. Shut it down, allow it to cool and try again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,424 Posts
Hes right. You are missing a critical step the bleeding process. You didn't mention turning the temperature to the hottest and moving the temperature adjuster wheel in between the center vents to the 3 red dots (not sure that last part is required).

If you can't afford to keep buying coolant yet you are leaking, shouldn't you just pour water in it? Of course depending on where in the world your are, winter is approaching so you will eventually need coolant. Until then pour water.

All the hoses that connect to expansion tank requires those push in clip connector hoses.

More than likely after replacing expansion tank, you didn't lube up the o rings inside the hose and it damaged it or it was on its way out anyways.

If the hose is in good health,you could always try and buy the o ring assortment from harbor freight and finding the right side and replacing that oring.

To really save money you could then return that kit back to harbor freight and tell them it's garbage.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top