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Discussion Starter #1
So I replaced the CCV today and oil filter housing gasket and all of a sudden the car would not start I put new plugs in as well we pulled plugs and verified spark also verified fuel could not figure out why it would not start. We messed with all the wiring again down to the idle control valve if for some reason the car began to start but was then miss firing on cylinders three and for those cylinders continue to misfire even with swapping coils. At one point noticed small smoke coming from ECU box so I took the cover off and it smells like burnt electrical but I don't see anything in there burnt. am I ****ed is it possible the electrical connection to cylinders three and four gotten melted inside the ECU somehow? So pissed off no idea how this could've happened worst day ever we did have two of the electrical connections from that box switched the one that goes to the little eve app valve in the one to the oil filter housing I believe were swamped so we fix them I'm wondering if that caused some electrical problem somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Right now the old plugs are back in the car car starts every time but runs on four cylinders miss firing on three and four even with coil swaps it remains misfires there what the fuck
 

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Did you remove the intake manifold to replace the ccv? Do you have any codes? Besides p0303 and p0304?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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Check to see if you have constant power to the coils and injectors for these cylinders.

The DME usually grounds the coils or injectors to fire or trigger them.

Swapping the wiring at the OFH and Evap solenoid is common and usually will not do any damage, just trigger codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Burned two fucking transistors on my ecu ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1476622082.129658.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Check to see if you have constant power to the coils and injectors for these cylinders.



The DME usually grounds the coils or injectors to fire or trigger them.



Swapping the wiring at the OFH and Evap solenoid is common and usually will not do any damage, just trigger codes.

If that is common then how could this possibly have happened otherwise? There was nothing else we did wrong for the whole job....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've ordered a $30 ECU of mostly same make on eBay and have a friend who will try to unsolder transistors and re-solder them to my board so I don't have to wait for new transistors from Hong Kong option B I've purchased a DME EWS and lock cylinder from another site for a 330 CI around the same year same index number version etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hoping for the best
 

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Discussion Starter #12
only other thing i can think of is my angel eye wire tap in that ecu box.. could that have possibly caused this issue if the positive connection got grounded somewhere? that is the only other thing i can think of
 

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See my comments in the other thread you posted in.

I would be very cautious about checking for pinched/shorted wires for the impacted cylinders.

I mentioned to replace a single driver if you are not 100% sure of the problem, better to only replace one driver and have it fail then use up your spares and do extra soldering work!

BTW, did you unsolder the driver that is loose/sideways?

Maybe something happened and the driver came unsoldered and shorted the other one?

I do not like the looks of how the leads for any of the driver chips are soldered.

The RoHS solder really SUCKS IMHO for thermal cycling and vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ug my buddy put his car back together and rough idle and stalls but smooth at high rpms. His icv was so black inside and he cleaned it with the little throttle body cleaner we had left but it was still cakey and black and not moving freely like it should. Amazing he had zero idle issues before either as this is an e39 528i with 370,000 miles that has never had the icv pulled and cleaned. He is pulling and cleaning again to see if it gets better but from what i saw it was bad and must be the culprit. Amazing what turn up in other areas when you do a CCV job.


As for my car, nothing unsoldered yet but I was nervous doing one and then the test fire up might compromise the other circuitry so I told him if he is soldering one just solder both as I was getting codes for cyls 3 and 4 so both transistors are bad. Maybe as well replace both and hope and pray for the best...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
P. S. jfoj stay tuned, I really appreciate and value your advice ever since you've been on these forums!
 

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As for my car, nothing unsoldered yet but I was nervous doing one and then the test fire up might compromise the other circuitry so I told him if he is soldering one just solder both as I was getting codes for cyls 3 and 4 so both transistors are bad. Maybe as well replace both and hope and pray for the best...
So are you telling me the picture of the DME you posted was just as you found it??

The reason I ask is if you look closely at what I will call the #3 driver, or 3rd from the left, this chip clearly has the case cracked. But look even closer at the left lead appears to be not attached to the solder pad. I think the #3 drive chip actually shifted to the left from its mounting position?

Then look at the #4 driver, or the 4th from the left. This driver is not even in the proper location. It had all 3 of the leads come loose from the circuit board, the back came unsoldered AND the chip spun 90 degrees and top of this #4 driver is against the side of the #3 driver.

I am somewhat speculating what happened, that these chips got so hot they unsoldered themselves from the circuit board. They may have shift in location due to how the DME is positioned vertically in the DME box mounting slot? Something clear became very hot!!!

My concern is did you find out what caused these chips to short out? If you go to all the trouble to remove drivers from a parts DME, mount them then try again, if there is a shorted wire, you may repeat the failure AGAIN!.

You will only have 3 chances with the parts DME assuming you can get ALL 6 driver chips off of the spare DME in one piece without damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Damn man lots to think about now, I will surely discuss with my friend before he digs in but that pic is exactly how we found it. 3rd chip clearly only has one pin down but the base of the transistor is soldered to the board to create a ground I think. That one pin on three looks unused? Other chip was
always turned 90 degrees like that. At least he can compare everything to the two donor boards coming in soon..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Horrible shadows in that pic are horrible!!
 

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Just thought I'd put my 2 cents...back a few months ago I fried my o2 evaluation sensor in my ecu. The solution I chose was to go to a local shop and have them clone my ecu software onto a used ecu I bought off ebay. Some ecu models allow you to "virginize" them to match them to your VIN number; mine only allowed cloning. I personal got this service through DUDMD Tuning in Washington State; they allow you to mail in your ecu and they'll mail it back virginized. So if what you're doing right now doesn't work I wanted to present this as an option. Don't buy a brand new ecu; a local shop tried to get me to do this. Goodluck!
 

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That can totally be fixed. Those are MOSFETS, 14CL40, get 'em from Digikey or Mouser or someplace, eBay, etc. Those look to be Hitachi. Or just do a search for an equivalent as there are some. Sometimes they just burn up. Those don't even look to be that difficult to solder/desolder. I'd desolder all of them and replace. Unless there are other fried components, should be good as new. Don't fret.
 
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