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Discussion Starter #1
Two days ago my power steering fluid was empty after purchasing the ATF (PS Fluid) I noticed my car has a heavy leak coming from a bottom hose (Im not to mechanically inclined but i guess its the PS hose). All of a sudden my car started driving weak for no reason i would floor the gas pedal and it wouldn't go over 3000 rpm (about 15mph) so i turned it off let it rest for like 15 min on the side of the road. Then when i start it i let it warm up for a bit and the car didn't want to drive forward at all. I have a steptronic so i tried to put it in first the car would rev but did not move so i tried on second and did the same thing but when i put it in reverse it drove but felt weak i had step on the pedal pretty hard (3k rpm as well and about 10MPH) so i just left the car down the street to have mechanic check it on monday. Since i didn't wan't to drive with low ATF or something worse. So i called my mechanic still waiting for him to come later today since it was a weekend. Today i jack the car up get under it to try and see whats going on i see the PS hose that's leaking it has a minor hole on it were the fluid is leaking only weird thing is the fluid didn't come out pink it was sort of muddy brown and the fluid that was in my PS reservoir was fresh pink how could it leak out brownish? I also notice a bit of pink ATF fluid on the bottom of the tranny don't know if its the leaking PS fluid or Auto Tranny Fluid. So i start the car to see if it maybe got better idk i was just hoping for the best and now all of a sudden my gear stick did not want to get out of park wouldn't let me put it in reverse neutral etc .. Im just hopping anyone can help me since my tranny has been working super smooth no slip no nothing i just cant believe my tranny is bad i really cant. I hope it need fluid or filter change since its been riding smooth no hesitations when switching gear. SOMEONE PLS HELP !!!



PS:Ive had the car for over 5 years always been smooth on the Tranny and Engine it has over 150k Miles but i always believe miles aren't too big of an issue as long as the car is maintained the car has been smooth since day 1. I don't know if its a coincidence but the same day my PS pump goes empty weird things happened to the Tranny. SORRY for the question but can the hole on the hose cause whats happening i don't think so but just asking (Im not entirely sure that that hose is a PS hose even though i guess it is since i put PS fluid and it automatically leaks). Please someone try and help me i need my car bad and i really don't want my mechanic to try and rip me off. If you would like me to take pictures of anything let me know and i will.

Thank You For Reading And I Will Gladly Appreciate Your Help !!!
:(
 

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The transmission problem is unrelated to the P/S. The P/S a straightforward repair, just replace the blown hose. Why is the fluid color different?
If you have just filled the reservoir, the new fluid have probably not mixed with the old yet.
You should do a fluid flush after replacing the hose, if the old fluid is brown.

As far as the transmission, check fluid lever first. Have your mechanic scan for codes.
If the car doesn't want to move in any gear, this might a TC issue.
What's the mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
PS:The car was driving on Drive but felt heavy i floored the pedal and the fastest it went was about (15MPH, 3k RPM) (I wasn't intentionally flooring it i just felt i was going slow so pressed harder on gas then noticed it was all the way down but it was driving like something was holding it back the revs was high but the car just felt weak and drove slow) When i turned it off and let it rest for 10mins and started it back up it wouldn't move on Drive only rev'd. So then i put the car in Reverse it was driving but felt weak it was at 3k Rpm but was going slow (All this happened yesterday). The car was driving in all gears yesterday morning but then only reverse worked and now today when i go take a look at it the gear stick wont move from Park its stuck stiff.

Also what would be the average price if the TC is bad? By TC you mean (Torque Converter) rite?
 

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Are you sure it's the p/s line leaking and not the transmission cooler line. I had a pin hole in my trans cooler line and lost several quarts of oil. It caused my transmission to slip like yours. I changed the line and refilled it and it works fine again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Il take a picture in a few of the leak as best as i can. If you can help guide me i would be more than happy. Im so stressed its my only car and i have lots to do especially since all the holidays are coming up im really not trying to spend all my money on the car. Also my mechanic still hasn't came. I guess il have to find the problem myself i cant keep waiting !! :(

And Thank You So Much For The Reply I Appreciate It ALOT !!!!
 

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PS:The car was driving on Drive but felt heavy i floored the pedal and the fastest it went was about (15MPH, 3k RPM) (I wasn't intentionally flooring it i just felt i was going slow so pressed harder on gas then noticed it was all the way down but it was driving like something was holding it back the revs was high but the car just felt weak and drove slow) When i turned it off and let it rest for 10mins and started it back up it wouldn't move on Drive only rev'd. So then i put the car in Reverse it was driving but felt weak it was at 3k Rpm but was going slow (All this happened yesterday). The car was driving in all gears yesterday morning but then only reverse worked and now today when i go take a look at it the gear stick wont move from Park its stuck stiff.

Also what would be the average price if the TC is bad? By TC you mean (Torque Converter) rite?
That describes slippage. Yes, TC means Torque Converter.
Let us know what the verdict is, unfortunately when a high mileage automatic transmission starts acting up, oftentimes rebuild, or replacement is the only remedy.

Your P/S reservoir was low, so you should have a P/S leak, but Willie made a good point.
In order to shift out of Park, the ignition has to be on, press the brake pedal and the latch on the shifter.

It's overdone, if you ask me, you don't need all 3. :excited:
If it still won't shift out of Park, there is a problem with one of those 3 mechanisms.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My mechanic took the car last week and just got back to me he said their a hose leaking from the PS its repairable. He also says the transmission is low on fluid I plan on buying the kit and replace it. Also cleaning the bottom of tranny to try and determine if theirs still a leak. I have a question will it be fine if I top it off or would I have to replace the whole fluid? im scared to do both since i THINK the fluid has never been replaced. Also my tranny has a green sticker does anyone know what fluid I need and how much of it? Also about the car not changing gear from park my mechanic gave it a few tries and it fixed I assume something was stuck in the stick from what I read in other threads.

And I really appreciate everyones replies thank you so much !
 

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Ignore that green lifetime oil sticker, years later BMW decided to come out and say that the oil is not "lifetime" after all. I guess that's one way to sell new transmissions. I would drain, replace the filter, refill. To get all of the old fluid out some guys drain and refill an additional 2 more times. The transmission holds about 12 quarts but you can only drain about 5 quarts because a lot of oil stays up in the TC and other parts of the transmission. Some people have had problems doing a powered flush on a high mileage transmission, so I wouldn't do that.


ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1418659530.192109.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok sounds good how many quarts would I need and would they sell that at a local autozone or maybe walmart or do I need to get it online. When your tranny had the leak is this the fluid you used and did you refill it or top it off? Im going to call around and check on my side to see if I can buy it locally
 

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Ya that's what I used. I bought it at napa . I bought 6 quarts. You have to raise the car level to get a accurate fill amount. Make sure the car is very stable before you get under it or have your mechanic do it.


Not like this, lol ImageUploadedByBimmerApp1418661356.514866.jpg
 

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Make sure the mechanic understands that the fluid level needs to be topped off with the engine running and the fluid warm but not too hot.

Usually about 100-120F, not hot enough to burn someone working on filling the transmission with fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Willie lol yea he has his own shop he has the rite stands. And Jfoj I appreciate the tip so in other words he will need some sort of thermostat?
 

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Willie lol yea he has his own shop he has the rite stands. And Jfoj I appreciate the tip so in other words he will need some sort of thermostat?
No thermometer required, I think the process states the fluid should be somewhere between 100-120F.

All these cars that do not have dipsticks for automatic transmissions state around 100-120F is considered "warm".

The problem is if you were to check the fluid hot at say anything about 120F you are at a scalding or burn risk.

Just warm enough that you cannot hold your hand on the trans pan or use an IF thermometer on the pan to verify the fluid temp.

It is not that critical, just do not fill and check with cold fluid.
 

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A leak or trouble in the power steering line, or system for that matter will NOT cause engine drivability issues, it won't cause a limp mode or anything like that. Are you positive the brown fluid that is leaking isn't engine oil? Because that would make a lot more sense. The car revs normally when in neutral?
 

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Change More with this trick -

I used the castrol multi import (I think) in my 2000 323i. Pan warm to touch, then I started in on changing the filter, cleaned the pan out, then filled it to where it was running out and put the plug back in. Here's where you can get more of the ugly oil out (brownish did you say?) Everything from here requires some skill; not rocket science, but you have brownish oil? :rolleyes:
:idea:Unscrew the transmission cooler lines,:eek: I forget which one pushes the fluid from the transmission to the cooler, but just put baggies over both and see which one spits when you crank the motor. DON'T START IT !!! Just a quick crank and off. Now the previous owner cut the ends off mine and used hose clamps to put it back on the cooler.:facepalm: You'll need to find a fitting had fits the hose connections so you can put a extension hose on each. Clear vinyl from the home depot works great. You can see the oil going and coming. The dirty oil goes into a bucket, clamp the hose to the side of the bucket so it will stay put when you crank the motor over and off. The other hose is the filler hose, this is the one needing the funnel/larger holding bottle to keep filling as you crank, shift and turn off.:tsk: You need to work the on, shift, off in about 5-8 seconds. That's why you need a large filling bottle you can watch as you turn on, shift gears and as the fluid goes down, turn it off - and start over. This way you don't mix the old with the new and it seems to work. Just passed 238700 miles, my lifetime oil was black!:thumbup:
I should build a kit or do a photo log with instruction or something?:woot: Topping the oil off was the learning curve. has too be level, warm and you have to squeeze under there while everything could be hot? Maybe if I would have put it on jacks or something. :confused:
All kidding aside, I didn't do it right and got to "top" it off two more times. Next time I'll do all the changing of the oil, fill it best I can and let the "stealer-ship" top it off. They charged me just $56 last time to do it.:hmm:
 
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