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Discussion Starter #1
I was trying to remove the FCAB bolts and one of them sheared off. I drilled it all the way through and tried and EZ out. That name is false advertising since it wasn’t easy and it didn’t come out :)

since the drilled hole is not perfectly centered I’m worried about drilling further. Any recommendations?
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Too many of these happened recently -- caused by the too long bolt that the exposed threads get rusted.
1) were you able to turn the bolt? If it turned and jammed, then best way is to turn out then in and keep repeat until the exposed rust cleaned up. Brute force would break it as in this case.
2) As now, try to put pressure on the drill bit on the bolt thicker part to wear it down. Just being patient and time will get the remain bolt thinned down, then use a chisel and try to hit on the side of the bolt to fold its OD in just a little. Keep hit on the side and hope it will loosen up.
3) When install, use a lot of grease on the hole and female threads and on the bolt to protect the exposed threads from rusting again.
 

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can you get at the other end?
no. Worst, the other end formed a small pool and collected water and rusted out the exposed threads. Best is to use enough washers or spacer just enough to not having exposed threads when living in salted road and rusted belt area.
 

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Have you tried applying heat? I grew up in MI and this was super common. However, I did not learn the advantage of heat until a few years ago. If you can get that thing cherry red, then pop your EZ Out in and apply some torque it may pop loose. I cannot recommend heat enough nowadays and have even gotten bolts out of exhausts where it was so rusted I could get a size smaller socket on the wasted head. That's how effective heat can be. So a torch isn't too expensive and will continue to pay dividends in your future.
 

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Heating the nut on the exhaust manifold is helpful, but not in this case as heating the bolt will get it larger and tighter in the female threaded hole.
 

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2005 325Ci convertible 5spd. manual
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Heat the female part and let it expand around the bolt and continue with the easy out while it's still hot.
 

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Heat loosens rust no matter how you apply it-
as long as things shrink and expand, the interface
between them moves, and breaks up the rust.
Took me a while to figure that- if you heat the b'jeezuz
out of the bolt, it'll expand in the hole, then shrink as it cools.
If you hope to remove the bolt, you then quench it to harden and
shock it. If you hope to drill, let it cool slowly so it stays soft.

However, heating here might be a recipe for setting the car on fire,
as it's coated in undercoating, and that stuff burns.

I have used an air body saw in a similar predicament- even if
you cut into the threads in the car, it'll only make a narrow groove,
so they aren't structurally compromised.
The body saw blades break easily, but they're tiny, so they can
get into places like this.

Also a round file, but that will take... hours. Even with
a power filer.

Or another TINY hole in the thick side.

And hitting it. A lot. Because like heat, shock breaks things loose.
Like my sanity.

t
cracked
 

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2005 325Ci convertible 5spd. manual
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I think that's what Idaho meant. I've done the same. Just don't set the car on fire.
I agree. I wasn't trying to steal his thunder. What TobyB said is also true. If you just heat it and let it cool on it's own that may be enough to break the grip. But I still think his best bet is to try to break it while it's hot. A tap socket will fit on an easy out and they work a lot better than an adjustable wrench. I think I would try a triangular file or a dremel tool with a grinding stone before I tried an air saw. Any time you get into the threads you weaken them.
 

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I should have added whenever you use a torch around a vehicle you should ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher within arm's reach.
 

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Yes, have an extinguisher around - good advice. The heat does help loosen by expansion heating then contraction cooling in cycles. There are also some newer products that you spray super cold on things that can help with the dramatic and fast expansion and such to physically loosen the rust bonds. Quality penetrating oil can also be used while it's still cooling to help get it drawn into gaps with capillary action.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, have an extinguisher around - good advice. The heat does help loosen by expansion heating then contraction cooling in cycles. There are also some newer products that you spray super cold on things that can help with the dramatic and fast expansion and such to physically loosen the rust bonds. Quality penetrating oil can also be used while it's still cooling to help get it drawn into gaps with capillary action.
no kidding, I have so much penetrant in the frame I could use my car as a fire starter. :). Actually I’m worried that if it catches fire that would happen inside the frame rail. Do you think if i spray brake cleaner in the area and through the bolt hole ( I’ve drilled it all the way through)

i going to first try using a dremel to make the hole an oval and try use something non round to twist it out.
 

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If you have been using a round spiral easy out and it's not working try using the square type. You can lightly tap them in with a hammer to seat them and get a firm grip. They usually out perform a spiral easy out.
 

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As seen on TV!!!!
That's a clever idea.
I do question their execution- that bracket doesn't look very rigid.
And in the example given, a center punch and a drill press
will do a better job than a guide bushing.
(I wish I'd bought more of those bushings when Boeing Surplus
was still around)

You COULD still do something like that, using a guided bushing and
a small drill. But it will be slow going, and a small cutter in a rigid
holder will be better suited.

I'm sticking with a few careful cuts inside the hole with the body saw.
120 Volt Electric Body Saw
High Speed Metal Air Saw
They are cheap,
and the Harrberr Fraaate version is plenty good.

Heck, if you can get it in there, even a narrow metal blade in your
jig saw, or sawzall if you have one.

hth,
t
 

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If worst gets to worst. You might have to get a helicoil kit or similar, drill the hole a smidge bigger and insert the helicoil spring. Might be worth if you get really screwed and can’t get her out with enough heat to see if a machine shop or similar will do it for you if you have her towed in.
 

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1) were you able to turn the bolt? If it turned and jammed, then best way is to turn out then in and keep repeat until the exposed rust cleaned up. Brute force would break it as in this case.
OP, were you able to turn the bolt loose before it broke?
 

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You could try flooding it tranny fluid. Get some plastacine or play dough form the local dollar store. Plug up the bottom, then using a pencil, etc., push the play dough thats stuck in the hole down a bit to make a deeper well., then fill the hole with tranny fluid. Let it sit, occasionally topping it up if needed. Next day, remove everything, apply heat and slowly work the stub back and forth.
 

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You could try flooding it tranny fluid. Get some plastacine or play dough form the local dollar store. Plug up the bottom, then using a pencil, etc., push the play dough thats stuck in the hole down a bit to make a deeper well., then fill the hole with tranny fluid. Let it sit, occasionally topping it up if needed. Next day, remove everything, apply heat and slowly work the stub back and forth.
How is ATF inside the broken bolt supposed to loosen rusted threads? My vote is for concentrated heat, Oxy-acetylene.
 
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