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Discussion Starter #1
So I recently replaced coolant pipes under intake manifold along with heater valve and heater hoses, now im having coolant dripping off from above the oil pan? By the sway bar its really hard to tell but seems like its coming from above
somewhere Could this be the heater core drain? My old heater valve wasnt working and maybe prevented this leak? Im not sure if i should use stop leak to stop the heater valve from working like my old 1 or do some kind of bypass, The green stuff in the pictures are a uv dye i used to help me find the leak not green coolant lol, please help and thanks!!


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Go over your work.

DO NOT use stop leak

If you used aftermarket heater pipes, they can be tricky to install without leaks. I try to use OEM pipes, but will use aftermarket pipes with OEM o-rings, which seems to work out. I also test them after install before putting intake manifold on, by hooking up all coolant pipes and hoses, install a special gutted thermostat housing I have, fill with distilled water and pressurize with <20 psi

In your case I would pressurize the cooling system - I use a compressor, but you can use a coolant pressure tester from harbor freight- and shine a light through the intake near were heater pipes enter block. check for leaks. If they are dry check the rest of your work.
 

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Agree with eff- no stop leak .check your work and while your at it, I hope you made sure your water pump and thermostat are new and or not leaking .....otherwise replace if it has not been replaced.water pump leak right about the same place as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Go over your work.

DO NOT use stop leak

If you used aftermarket heater pipes, they can be tricky to install without leaks. I try to use OEM pipes, but will use aftermarket pipes with OEM o-rings, which seems to work out. I also test them after install before putting intake manifold on, by hooking up all coolant pipes and hoses, install a special gutted thermostat housing I have, fill with distilled water and pressurize with <20 psi

In your case I would pressurize the cooling system - I use a compressor, but you can use a coolant pressure tester from harbor freight- and shine a light through the intake near were heater pipes enter block. check for leaks. If they are dry check the rest of your work.


I bought original “genuine” pipes to make sure they last as long as possible this area seems to be dry no stains nothing, the rest of the cooling system has been done about a year ago, hoses, radiator, water pump, thermostat etc... everything except heater core, it seems weird how all of a sudden i put a new heater valve and that leak started, my old heater valve was clogged which didnt let the coolant make its way to the heater core.


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Discussion Starter #7
Agree with eff- no stop leak .check your work and while your at it, I hope you made sure your water pump and thermostat are new and or not leaking .....otherwise replace if it has not been replaced.water pump leak right about the same place as well.


I bought original “genuine” pipes to make sure they last as long as possible this area seems to be dry no stains nothing, the rest of the cooling system has been done about a year ago, hoses, radiator, water pump, thermostat etc... everything except heater core, it seems weird how all of a sudden i put a new heater valve and that leak started, my old heater valve was clogged which didnt let the coolant make its way to the heater core.



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Discussion Starter #10
:evil: :ben: Green coolant :evil: :ben:



That's all I can contribute, sorry.


Causation or just correlation?


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Go over your work.

DO NOT use stop leak

If you used aftermarket heater pipes, they can be tricky to install without leaks. I try to use OEM pipes, but will use aftermarket pipes with OEM o-rings, which seems to work out. I also test them after install before putting intake manifold on, by hooking up all coolant pipes and hoses, install a special gutted thermostat housing I have, fill with distilled water and pressurize with <20 psi

In your case I would pressurize the cooling system - I use a compressor, but you can use a coolant pressure tester from harbor freight- and shine a light through the intake near were heater pipes enter block. check for leaks. If they are dry check the rest of your work.


Agree with eff- no stop leak .check your work and while your at it, I hope you made sure your water pump and thermostat are new and or not leaking .....otherwise replace if it has not been replaced.water pump leak right about the same place as well.


Also i forgot to mention, the leak is mostly when the car is off and cold, for example i cant see anything until the next morning after letting the car sit overnight, and at this point it will still drip, but it seems to slow down or go away when the car is running


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Also i forgot to mention, the leak is mostly when the car is off and cold, for example i cant see anything until the next morning after letting the car sit overnight, and at this point it will still drip, but it seems to slow down or go away when the car is running


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I had that happen as well. I watched it drip from the connection between the hose and the radiator (iirc). Engine was cold.

I replaced the o-rings and that has fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had that happen as well. I watched it drip from the connection between the hose and the radiator (iirc). Engine was cold.

I replaced the o-rings and that has fixed it.


The o rings on the heater core? If so how was it to take it out? I havent found much diy’s on how to do it so i really want to avoid replacing it


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Might as well check the transmission cooler if Auto and the coolant hose connections between expansion tank holder and the engine.I saw mine actually leaking at the ET holder.
 

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To answer your question.
The heater core does not have a drain.
Rather it uses the A/C drains,as it shares the same HVAC plenum.

Double check your work.
 

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The o rings on the heater core? If so how was it to take it out? I havent found much diy’s on how to do it so i really want to avoid replacing it


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No the oring on the upper radiator hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
To answer your question.
The heater core does not have a drain.
Rather it uses the A/C drains,as it shares the same HVAC plenum.

Double check your work.


Double checked all my work but isnt this a drain?this is just a picture from google lol



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Discussion Starter #20
Go over your work.

DO NOT use stop leak

If you used aftermarket heater pipes, they can be tricky to install without leaks. I try to use OEM pipes, but will use aftermarket pipes with OEM o-rings, which seems to work out. I also test them after install before putting intake manifold on, by hooking up all coolant pipes and hoses, install a special gutted thermostat housing I have, fill with distilled water and pressurize with <20 psi

In your case I would pressurize the cooling system - I use a compressor, but you can use a coolant pressure tester from harbor freight- and shine a light through the intake near were heater pipes enter block. check for leaks. If they are dry check the rest of your work.


I had that happen as well. I watched it drip from the connection between the hose and the radiator (iirc). Engine was cold.

I replaced the o-rings and that has fixed it.


Causation or just correlation?


Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics


:evil: :ben: Green coolant :evil: :ben:



That's all I can contribute, sorry.


Agree with eff- no stop leak .check your work and while your at it, I hope you made sure your water pump and thermostat are new and or not leaking .....otherwise replace if it has not been replaced.water pump leak right about the same place as well.


To answer your question.
The heater core does not have a drain.
Rather it uses the A/C drains,as it shares the same HVAC plenum.

Double check your work.


Well u guys were right it seems i didnt check hard enough its the heater inlet pipe i would never have noticed without the uv dye at least i finally figured it out im going through about half a gallon every 2 days i hopefully it can hold until the end of the week
i guess it didnt seal tight enough or maybe the metal is warped, crusty? Should i apply some rtv when putting the hose back in?


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