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Discussion Starter #81
Leaks from tstat and water pump vs a bad headgasket merit a thumbs up in my book. Very easy to replace those.

How much of the cooling system has been changed so far? And what brand was the expansion tank you put in?
Almost everything is new I think the expansion tank is I have no idea to tell you the truth . I bought at Napa . I know big mistake I could have bought the genuine bmw
I just need to change the water pump and thermostat and Lower radiator everything else is new most is genuine bmw . Expect radiator and the lower hose and thermostat and water pump


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Discussion Starter #82
Nice. So I wouldn't actually say they were lying to you, and this is where the repair industry gets to live in a murky area. If its a slow month, partly worn brake pads become very worn and the rotors too thin, so they recommend $1400 in new rotors and pads. It it's a busy month the pads are fine. For you, if its a slow month a marginal exhaust gas presence in a car loosing coolant becomes a head gasket replacement and they'll also replace a few cooling bits and give you a car back that's not leaking. If its a busy month, they'll find the leak, tighten the connection and charge you for the diagnosis. None of these are wrong actions, per se. But it's worth educating yourself exactly as you have done here, so bravo. You are not spending $4000 in July, 2020.....
That’s true the pressured test it at the shops came back with head gasket . Took it to the dealer they found the problem. Some times I guess it worth to take it to the dealer


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Discussion Starter #83
-Thermostat
-Water pump
-Heater pipe that goes into the head (the only plastic pipe in the head)
-Aft coolant temp sensor (can only be accessed with intake off)
-If you've never done them there's a chance your upper/lower radiator are bad
-Sounds like you already did expansion tank?
-This will be an easy time to access the oil filter housing gasket with the intake off (not required, but it's easy and it's only like $4)
-It's very likely your upper and lower intake boots have cracks after you abuse them taking them off
-CCV (it will never be easier to do than with the manifold off)
-When the intake is off go through and epoxy the holes on the back of the intake manifold (sometimes the rubber boot cracks and can cause a lean code)
-Replace all rubber fittings (like on the "F" connector that goes into your upper intake boot and the one that goes to your EGR)

A lot of that isn't required when doing head gasket, but you'll never have stuff this far torn down again so just knock it out while you're doing it.
Waterpump was replaced when I first got the car but it leaking so needs replacements no idea on brand
Heater Pipe Not sure could have replaced it but don’t remember
Collant temp sensor no I haven’t
Upper is only a couple or month old and are genuine bmw don’t know if they are bad
Lower is Napa doesn’t look bad but going to change it out with genuine
Expansion tank was done at the same the hoses were being done but I don’t remember what brand but for sure it’s not original I payed 100 dollars at Napa auto parts might need to change it out again
Oil fliter housing gasket no but planning to do in the future
I could check those I don’t remember but they were replaced about 2 years ago maybe I should get brand new intake boot
What does the Ccv include should I upgrade to the cold climate one ?


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Are you going to DIY or have a shop do it?

If you take the fan out, remove the a/c and serpentine belts, and remove the water pump pulley, you should be able to see exactly what is leaking yourself and identify what the specific problem is. A small rectangular inspection mirror is very useful for this. Dried coolant residue and spatter will often help you deduce where the leak originated from.

If you are near an Autozone, they will rent you for free (charge your credit card, but fully refund you on return) a 22 piece Powerbuilt coolant system pressure tester with the correct adaptor for our expansion tanks; you can do your own pressure test with this as well to see where and if it leaks under pressure (though sometimes it may leak only when warm).


Fwiw, I have had new water pumps leak on me before, dripping out of the weep hole underneath the pulley shaft and onto the inside of the wp pulley ... which then flings coolant everywhere as it spins. It is annoying but its not that big a deal once you've dealt with it a couple times. I've learned to just roll with the punches and to keep an eye on things so they don't get out of hand unexpectedly.

My main point I guess is that even though the dealer diagnosed it for you, it is still a good idea to go through the process to check for yourself, become familiar with the system and learn to recognize its failures now that you have a known one. You can also evaluate if any other replacement parts are having issues or not and it will make dealing with the next issue that arises much easier and less stressful ... and there will be other issues. Plus a good time to evaluate other things like oil filter housing, oil pan gasket, power steering system, valve cover gasket, and check all the sensors up front for oil or coolant leaking into their respective wiring harnesses. Last but not least, you are less at the mercy of a shop that may or may not be doing a thorough diagnosis for whatever reason.

In terms of aftermarket brands, I go with OE (original equipement = company that made that specific part for bmw) or OEM (original equipment manufacturer = company that makes parts for BMW but not the one in questions). FCP Euro identifies these pretty well, plus their lifetime warranty is great should say a water pump or thermostat go bad and/or start leaking before it should. My aftermarket cooling system picks include:

Expansion tank: Modine
Autotransmission t-stat (if needed): coolantexpress
Radiator/cooling system soft hoses: Rein
Radiator: Nissens
Thermostat: Wahler or Behr
Water Pump: Salieri (although I have had to replace one of these), sometimes I use genuine BMW
 
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