EDIT: WARNING! - this will only work on models where the cowling plastic has not warped. The seal relies on a straight cowling to sit properly against the windshield. If the cowling plastic is warped then you are better off buying a whole new cowling.
GUIDE
The windshield wiper cowling on our cars is prone to deteriorating. The rubberised/flexi portion of the cowling cracks with age, becomes brittle and just breaks off.
The fix is usually having to replace the whole cowling as they are one piece but these aren't a cheap piece of plastic. This DIY is a great alternative to try for just a bit of your effort and minimal cost.
You will need:
15mm socket
Flathead screwdriver
Epoxy or silicone Sealant
Replacement rubber seal
The seal can be found on eBay for £/$ 5. Just search for windshield seals, there are different types, you can get ones that slot on or ones that have adhesive, you can try whichever you like. The rubber is actually good quality and will last a bit longer than the thin one BMW uses. The issue with BMW***8217;s is that it's designed as part of the cowling instead of a replaceable seal on its own so you have to buy the whole thing.
If you're painting your old cowling then you need materials obviously. I painted my old cowling as it was a bit faded but the plastic itself was in perfect condition. Very easy to do.
I'm not the first to try this but here is a rough guide if you want to give it a go. By all means a new cowling is the better option but this works as a cheap fix if done correctly.
Part 1: To remove the cowling you need to remove the wipers. You need to remove the round plastic bolt covers and remove the two 15mm nuts. 1 per wiper.
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I've seen many people telling you that you either need to pull the wipers up very hard, hit them with a hammer or use a puller on them to get them off. This is all incorrect. There is a very easy method to remove the arms, you just push on the wipers pivot point. This part is designed to flex towards the windshield so just keep pushing this down a few times until they pop up. They come away very easily using this method and no pullers required, just your hands.
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Part 2: Removing the cowling- This is held on with 7 push pins along the length of the cowling. Remove the cabin filter cover and just pull the cowling up with your hands. Now you need to check what's broken haha. Get new pins if needed as some may not be reusable, they aren't expensive. Everyone will be different here but the pins could break or their holder can be pulled off. Inspect the parts below. All my pins were fine but 2 carriers had come off.
What you want to see. The whole pin removed still in the carrier. They can be left in the hole or snap.
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If you're slightly unlucky like me you will find a broken pin carrier tab, this isn't an issue just an inconvenience.
![]()
These are plastic welded from the factory so either plastic weld them back or use some epoxy like I did. I had 2 which snapped on removal, the other 5 were fine.
![]()
The pins slide into the carriers like so, it's important that you have all 7 as you need even pressure along the cowling to ensure a water-tight seal when re-installing. I bought new ones to get a better seal.
![]()
The blue arrow shows some foam that's on the rear. Check the condition of this.
Part 3- remove the old worn rubber section. This is very easy, just use a sharp razor blade and follow the line. You can't go wrong doing this as the hard plastic acts as a guide for you when cutting the soft brittle part. Try and keep this cut even across the cowling as it helps later.
As below: follow the yellow line from one end of the cowling to the other.
![]()
This is what you want to be left with. Take care at the ends:
![]()
OPTIONAL:
when you're happy with your cut line you can paint the old cowling. Mine was faded so I gave it a quick sand with a green scotch brite then 2-3 coats of tough black satin paint.
![]()
Now you can install the new rubber. Depending on the condition of your cowel try different orientations of the rubber to see if one way works better. It just slots over the old cowling. I added some epoxy along the length to hold it in place one I had test fitted it. The ends will need some kind of anchor point) Make sure it's seated correctly and evenly.
The new rubber
![]()
Sliding it on
![]()
Now admire your like-new better than OEM wiper cowling. ***x1f642;
![]()
![]()
![]()
Fitting is the opposite of removal.
GUIDE
The windshield wiper cowling on our cars is prone to deteriorating. The rubberised/flexi portion of the cowling cracks with age, becomes brittle and just breaks off.
The fix is usually having to replace the whole cowling as they are one piece but these aren't a cheap piece of plastic. This DIY is a great alternative to try for just a bit of your effort and minimal cost.
You will need:
15mm socket
Flathead screwdriver
Epoxy or silicone Sealant
Replacement rubber seal
The seal can be found on eBay for £/$ 5. Just search for windshield seals, there are different types, you can get ones that slot on or ones that have adhesive, you can try whichever you like. The rubber is actually good quality and will last a bit longer than the thin one BMW uses. The issue with BMW***8217;s is that it's designed as part of the cowling instead of a replaceable seal on its own so you have to buy the whole thing.
If you're painting your old cowling then you need materials obviously. I painted my old cowling as it was a bit faded but the plastic itself was in perfect condition. Very easy to do.
I'm not the first to try this but here is a rough guide if you want to give it a go. By all means a new cowling is the better option but this works as a cheap fix if done correctly.
Part 1: To remove the cowling you need to remove the wipers. You need to remove the round plastic bolt covers and remove the two 15mm nuts. 1 per wiper.
I've seen many people telling you that you either need to pull the wipers up very hard, hit them with a hammer or use a puller on them to get them off. This is all incorrect. There is a very easy method to remove the arms, you just push on the wipers pivot point. This part is designed to flex towards the windshield so just keep pushing this down a few times until they pop up. They come away very easily using this method and no pullers required, just your hands.
Part 2: Removing the cowling- This is held on with 7 push pins along the length of the cowling. Remove the cabin filter cover and just pull the cowling up with your hands. Now you need to check what's broken haha. Get new pins if needed as some may not be reusable, they aren't expensive. Everyone will be different here but the pins could break or their holder can be pulled off. Inspect the parts below. All my pins were fine but 2 carriers had come off.
What you want to see. The whole pin removed still in the carrier. They can be left in the hole or snap.
If you're slightly unlucky like me you will find a broken pin carrier tab, this isn't an issue just an inconvenience.
These are plastic welded from the factory so either plastic weld them back or use some epoxy like I did. I had 2 which snapped on removal, the other 5 were fine.
The pins slide into the carriers like so, it's important that you have all 7 as you need even pressure along the cowling to ensure a water-tight seal when re-installing. I bought new ones to get a better seal.
The blue arrow shows some foam that's on the rear. Check the condition of this.
Part 3- remove the old worn rubber section. This is very easy, just use a sharp razor blade and follow the line. You can't go wrong doing this as the hard plastic acts as a guide for you when cutting the soft brittle part. Try and keep this cut even across the cowling as it helps later.
As below: follow the yellow line from one end of the cowling to the other.
This is what you want to be left with. Take care at the ends:
OPTIONAL:
when you're happy with your cut line you can paint the old cowling. Mine was faded so I gave it a quick sand with a green scotch brite then 2-3 coats of tough black satin paint.
Now you can install the new rubber. Depending on the condition of your cowel try different orientations of the rubber to see if one way works better. It just slots over the old cowling. I added some epoxy along the length to hold it in place one I had test fitted it. The ends will need some kind of anchor point) Make sure it's seated correctly and evenly.
The new rubber
Sliding it on
Now admire your like-new better than OEM wiper cowling. ***x1f642;
Fitting is the opposite of removal.
