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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went from this....


To this...


And yes, I used this...


I couldn't stand looking at the cracks in the finish of the myrtle knob, and instead of spending MORE money on my car for something cosmetic, I decided to give this a try. I removed the knob, scuffed up the clear coat with 150-220 grit sandpaper, removed ALL sanding media with a tack-cloth and wiped it down with alcohol just to make sure that i would have a good amount of surface adhesion. I hung the knob by a length of twine and applied 5 LIGHT coats, waiting 30 minutes between coats and an hour between final coat and re-installationAs a former Subaru owner/devotee and a NASIOC forum member, I have seen this stuff used on everything from vent surrounds to changing the ENTIRE exterior color of a car.
In fact, I think a shifter knob is the only thing I haven't seen it on. I waited a month to post this just to make sure that it would "age" well and not start looking like crap in a few days. Surprisingly enough, I've been impressed with this stuff. Even with all of the contact that the shifter gets(and being a former manual driver I still rest my hand there ALL the time) it doesn't show ANY signs of wear. Good stuff in my opinion...
 

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When I saw the picture, I honestly thought you were pretty good with a needle and thread. That actually looks like leather, especially with the shifter cover for illusion. Great job bro, going to HD to get me some plastidip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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An avocado I can deal with. It's all the CHEESE that BMW brought to the party with this wood trim that makes me crazy.
Lol... Listen, get some 90%+ rubbing alcohol and sand paper take out your ash tray console and remove the old rubber coating and redo with your PD.

That damn thing is hella scratched up... That would drive me nuts more than the wood trim.

Ps the chrome little knob will pry out if done gently with patience.

Don't just PD over the scratches... Do it right, strip it down and refinish.

Thank me later.. :hi:

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The scratches in the door look bad, but I thought that I had read here that if you strip the coating off the door that its just black plastic underneath and that there's no need for recoating. As for the "chrome knob" I remember seeing that it could be taped off and trimmed around with an x-acto before painting. I'll be doing both doors and the surrounding trim as well.
 

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The scratches in the door look bad, but I thought that I had read here that if you strip the coating off the door that its just black plastic underneath and that there's no need for recoating. As for the "chrome knob" I remember seeing that it could be taped off and trimmed around with an x-acto before painting. I'll be doing both doors and the surrounding trim as well.
It is plastic underneath, but it looks like plastic....

That's not really the goal.
If you just PD over the scratches they will show through...and It will look like
A half ass home job....and you won't be truly happy with the result.

Remove the chome piece, so that you can get a smooth prepped surface to start from. When done push the chrome piece back In.

When your finished, it will look like you paid 120 for a new piece, rather than a 10 min, lazy, duct tape job...

If properly prepped, and without masking or cutting around, the PD will last as long, if not longer than the OEM finish.

When I Did my front grills, I also took them apart, (3 pieces each) and coated, then reassembled.

Any pro finisher, just like a chef, will say that things will only turn out as well as the time put in on prep. 80% prep / 20% finish.

Unless you pronounce BMW: siv-ik


$.02
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It is plastic underneath, but it looks like plastic....

That's not really the goal.
If you just PD over the scratches they will show through...and It will look like
A half ass home job....and you won't be truly happy with the result.

Remove the chome piece, so that you can get a smooth prepped surface to start from. When done push the chrome piece back In.

When your finished, it will look like you paid 120 for a new piece, rather than a 10 min, lazy, duct tape job...

If properly prepped, and without masking or cutting around, the PD will last as long, if not longer than the OEM finish.

When I Did my front grills, I also took them apart, (3 pieces each) and coated, then reassembled.

Any pro finisher, just like a chef, will say that things will only turn out as well as the time put in on prep. 80% prep / 20% finish.

Unless you pronounce BMW: siv-ik


$.02


Works for me. That's why I put what I had seen done out there, so I could get the opinion of people experienced with this sort of thing. As for the prep/finished product metaphor, after years in a prep kitchen folloved by some time as a technician, I understand completely. As for BMW being pronounced siv-ík; I'll never make that mistake...there are too many available options to prevent all Civics from looking the same! :lmao:
 

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It looks like the last thing you see in the prison shower, before going to your "happy place".
I have a feeling you get bored, and play with your knob a lot.
I am going to create a forum for you guys that use Plastidip on your cars, and call it Plastidip-sh!ts. Then, I am never going to visit that site again.
You know what? I heard that if you spray a layer of that stuff on the treads of your tires every single day, then your tires will never wear out. Will you try that, and report back? You can also tint your windshield with it. That would be straight up ballin, yo!
 
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