I'm hoping to get this fixed enough to make the drive home with as small an investment as possible, given that I have a complete 6MT swap once I get there. Would super suck to have to rebuild a trans just to yank it back out in less than 3k miles
Have not.Even with no electronic control you should still get R and D. Those are controlled hydraulically with the manual selector valve. Any signs of leakage? Could be low fluid and need a topup.
Have you tried running with the TCM disconnected completely?
You’d think so but the one time I had low fluid was worse when warm (but it was a ZF box). Things work mysteriously sometimes…Have not.
No major leaks, just the usual minor Bimmer puddles and did the o-ring and bronze bearing trick to slow the drip at the selector shaft seal.
Low fluid should exhibit more when cold rather than after you've been rolling a while and the fluid expands, no?
Can you access TCM (to read the codes) with INPA? If not then there is issue with the can-bus from DME to TCM.Seems like a fault between the TCM and trans would still allow comms between the TCM and the OBD II port and connection with INPA, right?
Fwiw, when I underfilled my GM transmission once, things got worse the more I drove also. Going up steep hills made it worse, and I was about 35 miles away when I realized I had to head home. No limp mode though, and no gear cog on the dash.You’d think so but the one time I had low fluid was worse when warm (but it was a ZF box). Things work mysteriously sometimes…
Worth checking the level and dumping a quart of cheap dex 6 in
That's the plan now.Can you swap in a good used AT sourced locally?
This.Must be clutch/brake set wear down to metal, not the gears.
I've no idea, but what would a u-haul truck and car trailer combo cost you to one-way hire? If it saves you having to do a tranny swap on your mum's drive. Though of course you couldn't recoup the cost later though like you could by reselling the temporary trans. (BTW I admire your spirit in not letting this get you down and instead focussing on finding a solution!)That's the plan now.
I got on car-part and found the yard nearby has four in stock for $200-250, so I've got a bunch of work ahead of me but won't be out much cash since I should be able to resell a working automatic for about that when I finally do my swap.
I had planned on leaving this morning, so I'm actually pretty lucky that this happened now and not somewhere in Wyoming with a trailer behind the car.
My dad passed away shortly after I got here and I've got a couple of old motorcycles as inheritance that I have to get home, so had been looking at a U-Haul trailer a couple of weeks ago and it was a pretty reasonable $240. Went to book it the morning before the trans failed and it had shot up to $519. U-Haul can be very hit or miss on price depending on how many people are moving where at any given time, as they adjust prices to compensate so that they don't end up with all of their fleet in one place. Charlotte is an in-demand destination and will make truck/trailer rental prohibitively expensive, not to mention the complication of having brought my cats with me and them having gotten about as comfortable as can be expected in the car, but would be freaked out by three or four days in a noisy ass truck that they can't see out of.I've no idea, but what would a u-haul truck and car trailer combo cost you to one-way hire? If it saves you having to do a tranny swap on your mum's drive. Though of course you couldn't recoup the cost later though like you could by reselling the temporary trans. (BTW I admire your spirit in not letting this get you down and instead focussing on finding a solution!)
People should take the batt warning light serious. In this case, I would at least buy a charger to charge up the batt overnight on the road. Did you measure the batt with hidden display or voltmeter after the batt light came on a brief moment? I think the carbon brushes were worn short.Battery light came on briefly in Wyoming so I started watching the temp gauge in case the serpentine belt had been thrown, but all good.
Emergency: For over 150K miles cars, the best thing to do at the moment is to remove the regulator with brushes, then try to stress the copper wires on the brushes to max length to force the brushes out a millimeter longer and it would be ok to get home. Always have a voltmeter in the tool box on a trip.Half an hour West of Lincoln the dash starts lighting up, the trans cog right among the first. I was still driving, but now locked in fourth gear, more lights coming on and I figured out that this was low voltage and that I'd lost the alternator. When the headlights cut out I had to make it to the shoulder.
What did you find the next morning in the tank?At some point the low coolant light came on, but the car was too warm to check it and it tends to give a lot of false alarms anyway, so I didn't think too much about it, check it before heading out in the morning.
What is radiator end tank? The long vertical black plastic end caps at both end of the radiator? Or the neck where it connected to the upper hose?and then saw the crack in the radiator end tank.
The drain plug assembly? Could be manual vs auto version?the bypass assembly on the Nissens unit wouldn't seal and it dumped all the coolant straight out onto the floor.