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Discussion Starter #1
Screenshot from today. Can I get a little help deciphering?
 

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No output from the MAF.

Do not jump on buying a replacement yet, might be a wiring or connector problem?

So do you have a SES/CEL/MIL on?

Codes?

Freeze Frame data?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No output from the MAF.

Do not jump on buying a replacement yet, might be a wiring or connector problem?

So do you have a SES/CEL/MIL on?

Codes?

Freeze Frame data?
SES was on with p0102 and 0174/171. I cleared the codes. I just went outside and cleaned the MAF plug. It looked to be well connected. When should the freeze frame data be collected? At idle or when driving?
 

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I'm not getting good freeze frame data. Fuel system status show open loop insufficient engine temp, and rpms at 1341, both incorrect. rebooting the software has not helped. How about raw data?
Also, ses came back on with maf code again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not getting good freeze frame data. Fuel system status show open loop insufficient engine temp, and rpms at 1341, both incorrect. rebooting the software has not helped. How about raw data?
Also, ses came back on with maf code again.
Pulled another screen after cleaning maf plug.
 

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Eh. Something is up. Your long term fuel trims shouldn't be at zero if your short terms are at -15 or greater like yours show. I'd suspect the software first. Try a different scanner/app or make sure the settings are right. Keep in mind that I only have the slightest of ideas as to what I speak.

Green


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Do not think it is the software, but explain your computer and interface set up.

Also you need to understand how all of this works.

Best to look at the data with the engine running at all times. Put the computer in the car, drive it and if you look at the columns, there is a Min and Max value on either side of the current value. This is helpful

Freeze Frame data only shows once the CEL is triggered.

Is your MAF a 3 or 5 wire MAF?

You may need to check the Voltage and ground wires for the MAF, unusual is has no output. But the MAF could be bad, but do not jump to replace it yet.

Also configure the software to display measurements in Metric. The MAF reading at idle should be around 4-6 Grams/Sec.

Also confirm the engine coolant temperature using the Hidden OBC Menu. See the 4th link in my signature. You can compare between the software and directly from the car. The software is not likely the problem, but you could have an interface and/or computer issue?

Yest when the MAF is not putting out a signal, I recall the LTFT zero out and the STFT jump high negative.

You may have a number of issues, might even be the lower intake boot is so badly torn the MAF is not reading any air movement?

See the 1st link below in my signature.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do not think it is the software, but explain your computer and interface set up.

Also you need to understand how all of this works.

Best to look at the data with the engine running at all times. Put the computer in the car, drive it and if you look at the columns, there is a Min and Max value on either side of the current value. This is helpful

Freeze Frame data only shows once the CEL is triggered.

Is your MAF a 3 or 5 wire MAF?

You may need to check the Voltage and ground wires for the MAF, unusual is has no output. But the MAF could be bad, but do not jump to replace it yet.

Also configure the software to display measurements in Metric. The MAF reading at idle should be around 4-6 Grams/Sec.

Also confirm the engine coolant temperature using the Hidden OBC Menu. See the 4th link in my signature. You can compare between the software and directly from the car. The software is not likely the problem, but you could have an interface and/or computer issue?

Yest when the MAF is not putting out a signal, I recall the LTFT zero out and the STFT jump high negative.

You may have a number of issues, might even be the lower intake boot is so badly torn the MAF is not reading any air movement?

See the 1st link below in my signature.
OBDWiz. Elmscan5 compact. Windows 8.1
3 wired MAF.
The readout showed 0 on MAF flow.
I'll confirm temp on OBC. Software showed 203F.
Short terms were approx. -21 and -19 with 0 grams from MAF.
It shows in the 2nd attachment
Recent (2 weeks) CCV complete, both boots, TB gasket and clean, ICV boot and clean, dipstick o-ring DISA gasket, cleaned MAF.
I appreciate the help. The car runs well, considerably smoother power delivery with the recent maintenance. I'm not in a hurry, it's a 3rd car and I enjoy making it "right". Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've got power going to the MAF. Bear with me, one probe inserted into the forward most terminal, the other probe grounded to the body, showed 17 + volts? The other two terminals showed 0 volts. I'm pretty decent with the nuts and bolts, but honestly the electrical testing has always been a challenge for me. The car had no change I running when the MAF was disconnected.
 

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Boomer,

Thanks for posting this one up, I have been running around all night and wanted to post something similiar.

Also wanted to tell the OP that there have been a few owners lately that have found broken MAF wires up in the harness most likely due to big maintenance jobs and stressing the wiring??

Also if the OP actually measured 17+ Volts to the MAF connector, something is BAD or the meter is reading wrong.

Need more specifics if there is really 17+ Volts from a system that should never run above 14.5 Volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
13.67 volts going to the MAF. I couldn't retrieve the pic from boomers post, but drew 0 ohms with his first test. I reset the SES. The freeze frame data was from when the SES set previously, and the light has not yet come on. I'll leave the laptop on when I drive home. I captured a screenshot of the PID values after a quick ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
SES came on immediately upon restart. Here's the freeze frame data.
Edit: 93 degrees Celsius running temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yest when the MAF is not putting out a signal, I recall the LTFT zero out and the STFT jump high negative.

.
This is consistent with my readings. Still no output from MAF
 

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Well at this point, from the screen first screen shot I could see your Max speed was 69 MPH and there was never any output from the MAF.

Since you were able to confirm the ground and power to the MAF, the next logical step is to replace the MAF. But there could still be something else wrong.

As for a replacement MAF, do not buy an ebay cheapy. There are a lot of counterfeit MAF's on the market and you unfortunately get what you pay for.

Buy from a reputable vendor, the 330 MAF can be rather expensive.

The other option is to see if you can get a cheap used one, might be just for verifying that the car is not the problem.

Also keep your old MAF until you know 100% that it is failed.

This web site will help you shop for the best deal once you have the part number.

http://www.furiousmethod.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I appreciate your help. Looks like the MAF. I have a couple good salvage yards near me, they keep these parts in a warehouse, it's worth a shot.
Thanks again.
 

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If you get a junkyard MAF, make sure you check the part number and check the fuel trims when everything is swapped.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Finally picked up a salvage maf. But. it was inventoried wrong, it's from a 328.
Back to square 2.:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did the pin test according to dslboomer. All results pointed to a bad maf. When the plug is reattached to the maf while the car is running, the engine will stall. I'm assuming this verifies that there is current running back to the dme and the harness should be intact.
Any thoughts on this?
 
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