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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Losing my mind and damn money! My car was running fine, 2003 325xi, then I get in it at night. And my dash has no lights the dash doesn't even work speedometer gas gauge etc. My blinkers also didn't work, my front left headlight was out but high beams worked. Right side regular headlights work but not high beams. Got new bulbs. And still the same problem for the headlights. I drove to the store got back in my car and it wouldn't start, had to have it towed. Tested battery it was 11.9 while ignition off. I thought it could be the battery so did my dad so I got a new one......still didn't work 160 bucks gone I can't return the battery, then I thought the gas pump which the tow truck driver said too, so I got a new one $273 and the car started right up. Let it sit for about 15 mins. Turned it off and then tried turning it back on and nothing the same God dang problem before I put the new fuel pump in.
I've looked online for fuel relay locations. They seem to be sporadic all over the place. I checked all my fuses those are fine. Any ideas what it could be?
I'm about ready to set this car on fire.
 

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Ok, don’t take this negative, but it is important to know that proper troubleshooting will get a problem solved whereas guessing and throwing parts at it rarely does.
Follow this No Start Guide as it covers the common causes.

Measure battery voltage with a multimeter both at the battery and at the under-hood jump post and compare.

After reading your post a few times I would check the ignition switch, see if it is working properly or just intermittently.
 

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2016 340i xD 6-spd
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I think one relay is behind the fuse panel in the glove box...it was so hard for me to get the panel off, I ended up just removing the entire glovebox...easier to get to see what's holding it on. If you're stronger than me, maybe you can get it off (you're stronger than me!).

There are also fuses in the fuse box inside the e-box under the hood...tricky thing to open up...you need little pins. The middle fuse in it controls a lot of things...easy enough to look at.

Getting codes helps too--a bluetooth dongle and app like obdfusion--$25...worth every penny.

Before you set your car on fire...is it a manual in some color other than red? :)
 

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Any ideas what it could be?
I'm about ready to set this car on fire.
No, call me and I will happy to save it from the fire, for free.

New pump or old pump, who cares unless you have a good reason. Can you hear the pump running when the key turned to ON? It should for about some seconds then stop if the key not turned to Start. If not fuel pump running noise (we call priming) then you have power to pump issue and might not the pump itself.

New battery or old battery, who cares unless you measure the voltage. It should be above 12.5V at above 40F ambient, and could be lower like 12.4v if very cold ambient. If not then charge it up with big charger with 6A or more charging current, not the trickle whimsy stuffs.

Report back on those two things and we will save your car from the fire. and your wallet.
 

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2005 330xi, Jet Black w Black Interior
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Your battery seems a little low, before you replaced it. Check the charging system. These cars are extreeemely sensitive to low/fluctuating voltage and can cause all kinds of weird symptoms.
 

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i bet your alternator's fried. looks like you swapped batteries and it ran for 15 min because it was running off pure battery power. i'm obviously skipping and ignoring a ton of other electrical issues that might have happened, but, if you put a new battery in and you got 15 min out of it, then, well then its probably a toast alternator based on what you said up there. Could be a host of other things, but, im putting money on the alternator, you probably need one anyway.
 

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See if you can get it started and then test voltage level at battery AND under hood at jump post. This will test alternator. Should be high 13s, rev to 2000, should be over 14. Did you clean the terminals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No, call me and I will happy to save it from the fire, for free.

New pump or old pump, who cares unless you have a good reason. Can you hear the pump running when the key turned to ON? It should for about some seconds then stop if the key not turned to Start. If not fuel pump running noise (we call priming) then you have power to pump issue and might not the pump itself.

New battery or old battery, who cares unless you measure the voltage. It should be above 12.5V at above 40F ambient, and could be lower like 12.4v if very cold ambient. If not then charge it up with big charger with 6A or more charging current, not the trickle whimsy stuffs.

Report back on those two things and we will save your car from the fire. and your wallet.
Hey thanks for all that, I just kept trying to start it then gave it a break then went back to it, trying to turn it over, finally it started making a noise after the turning over sound and boom it fired right up.
But my brand new battery I just bought is completely dead? I can't even recharge it, it says battery error on my charger. So I took my old battery and charged that up all night and it works......buuuuuut, none of my lights turn on on the dash, the speedometer doesn't work, gas gauge doesn't work, rhe only lights on the dash is ABS, the rest is nothing. I.checkes rhe fuses and one was one I replaced all 3 that the fuse diagram mentioned for instrument panel with brand new ones and still nothing. I'm out of patience, this car is wanted to be set ablaze.

Any ideas of the damn instrument panel now? Or the brand new battery. I'm. Not too worried about the battery though it was a hefty waste of money but I have a battery that works. I just want this damn thing running properly again. I've been riding my gsxr everyday. A few days in the rain, not a fan of doing that. So this thing needs to just work with me....

Thanks ahead of time!
 

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If you keep trying to start, you are just going to flood it and make things worse. A number of things have been suggested but you don't appear to have done any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you keep trying to start, you are just going to flood it and make things worse. A number of things have been suggested but you don't appear to have done any.

Maybe you misread what I wrote. It started, now my issue is with the instrument panel.
See if you can get it started and then test voltage level at battery AND under hood at jump post. This will test alternator. Should be high 13s, rev to 2000, should be over 14. Did you clean the terminals?

Just drove my car down to smog place to get smogged. The guy couldn't smog it because the instrument panel isn't working. I went to turn my car on to leave and it won't start. But it did, it got me to the smog place. I cleaned the terminals ill have to check about alternator my last battery I used a voltage meter and it was 11.8 so I got the new battery. I just walked back to my house so for me to check anything else. It'll have to wait.
 

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Your posts arent always clear. Did you try the tests in #4 an 8?
Sometimes those elctrical problems are from low voltage.
Are you saying the voltage at teh battery with engine running was 11.8? That's not enough.
 

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I went to turn my car on to leave and it won't start. But it did, it got me to the smog place.
So it stranded you at the shop. It had took care of you, and so you need to take care it too. You got tp the shop alright, but the batt was discharged (alternator didn't charge it I think) and you could not start it again.
Charge up that batt overnight, then when the engine running, measure to see what voltage at the batt. Report or being stranded again, and again.
 
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