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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Background info here

http://www.e46fanatics.com/features/feature.php?news_id=40

Use this at your own risk. There might be better ways to do this, but this is what I did.

<p>1. If your car is lower you might need to use ramps to get the jack under the car.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/1.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_1.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>2. Use a floor jack and the center jack point.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/2.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_2.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>3. Put jack stands under the stock jack locations.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/3.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_3.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>4. Remove the wheels.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/4.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_4.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>5. Remove the under engine cover. There are some plastic plugs up front and screws underneath. The screw layout is going to vary depending on model.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/5.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_5.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>6. Drop the engine cover.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/6.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_6.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>7. Here you can see the both the control arm mounts
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/7.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_7.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>8. Drivers sides mount. You can see how the chassis brace is in the way of the rear bolt.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/8.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_8.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>9. Remove the driver***8217;s side bolt for the rear brace.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/9.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_9.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>10. Remove the front drivers side bolt for the brace.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/10.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_10.jpg"></a>
</p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
<p>11. Remove the passenger side rear brace.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/11.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_11.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>12. I used a jack to hold the brace up while I was loosening the bolts.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/12.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_12.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>13. Remove the last bolt that is inside the center jack point.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/13.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_13.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>14. Brace is now lose.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/14.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_14.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>15. Here you can see the two bolts that hold the carrier in place. (with brace still installed) we need to remove these.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/15.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_15.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>16. With the bolts removed we need to remove the carrier. I use a Dreamel tool to start cutting the rubber. The bushing is oil filled so have something to catch it.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/16.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_16.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>17. I finished off the cutting with a utility knife.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/17.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_17.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>18. Pull the carrier and outer part of the bushing.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/18.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_18.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>19. Here is the carrier part off the car.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/19.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_19.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>
20. Next we need to remove the rest of the bushing still on the control arm. We will use a three jaw puller. I rented this from AutoZone.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/20.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_20.jpg"></a>
</p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
<p>21. Here the three jaw puller is installed on the control arm.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/21.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_21.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>22. The control arm nice and cleaned up.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/22.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_22.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>23. Next we need to press out the bushing. I made a ***8220;tool***8221; out of a 2 ½***8221; pipe cap that I ground down to fit.
<b>EDIT</b> - Here is another way to remove the stock bushings - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=486189&highlight=Powerflex
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/23.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_23.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>24. You can see how I made it just fit inside the carrier.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/24.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_24.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>25. I rented a ball joint press from autozone, with my ***8220;tool***8221; and an impact wrench I was able to press the steel sleeve out.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/25.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_25.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>26. Here are the two carriers free of the OEM bushings.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/26.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_26.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>27. The left over stock parts.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/27.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_27.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>28. I cleaned up the carriers and sanded the insides according to the powerflex instructions.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/28.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_28.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>29. I again used the ball joint press and pressed in the power flex bushings. I took the purple inner section of the bushing out while pressing it in. It was a two step process to press the bushings in. The first time I could not use the spacer sleeve that comes with the press because there was not room.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/29.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_29.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>30. With the bushing pressed in half way I added the sleeve so that the bushing could properly seat on both sides of the carrier.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/30.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_30.jpg"></a>
</p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
<p>31. Bushing installed.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/31.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_31.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>32. Install the inner bushing part. I use white lithium grease to lubricate the two parts.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/32.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_32.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>33. The bushings all ready to install.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/33.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_33.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>34. Everything bolted back together. Carrier to frame rails takes 44 ft/lbs and the chassis brace to frame is two stage. First tighten to 43 lb/fts then tighten another 90 degrees and another 30 degrees. (per the Bentley manual).
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/34.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_34.jpg"></a>
</p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
K-DOG said:
Nice DIY, when you were getting the new bushing on, did you hammer it onto the control arm??

BTW, since it was such a PITA to take out the OEM bushings, doesn't that say something about their durability....After thoroughly reading this DIY, I think that the OEM bushing is already pretty damn overengeneered...
The bushings went right on for the most part. I might have used a block of wood to bang it on a little but it wasn't very hard at all.

Yes it was a pain, no it says nothing about the OE quality. The inner rubber part of the bushing itself isn't hard to get out (see attachment with it missing). What is hard to get out is the steel sleeve. I actually pressed the rubber part out when I was trying to figure out what I was going to do. Then I beat on the steel part with a hammer and tried a couple other things before making my "tool"
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i would think you would want 59mm for a 60mm bushing or 65mm for the 66mm bushing. I didn't really measure mine, just ground some off, test, grind, test until it fit.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
gokcer said:
Or you can just buy the kit with Bushings & Brackets for $99

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=31126757623
You know those are just OE replacements, right? If you are interested in replacing old OE junk with new OE junk that is the way to go, if you are interested in actually improving something then the power flex are the way to go.

If you got the bushings on special for $60 you could probably have the bushings pressed out and in by a shop for $40 or so and you are basically at the same price but with better parts.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Glad you are giving it a try.

I used an angle grinder but a bench grinder, dremel tool or something else might work also.

The lip on the new bushings just gets pushed through. A ball joint press requires a $105 deposit but is fully refundable when you return the press, so it actually doesn't cost you anything to rent it.

Good luck,
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Sorry you had a problem with my techniqe. As I said I am not sure it is the best way but it did work for me.

Not really an easy install because of the OE sleeves but otherwise it isn't too bad.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I don't know what you are talking about. Bimmerworld runs these on their E46 world challenge cars.

Brett knows his stuff but so does bimmerworld.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I guess I would still have to disagree. Having one of the first sets of bushings from bimmerworld installed in my car for near 6 months now my real world experiance is what I am going based on. I drive my car hard and on less than idea roads with no issues as of yet.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
nospam said:
Tim, what are your feelings about the design differences of the bushings? Sorry about the edit above.
For the positives of the power flex bushings you covered why their design seems good. As for the down sides I simply don't see them. What does it matter if the outer sleeve isn't metal, the carrier is. I also don't see what the difference is if they are pushed in or not. The design of the out portion is such that it is very difficult to remove once in place and I do not see it coming out while driving.

I guess the things that they eliminated I do not feel were needed but was the way that the factory designed them to take into account the oil filled center section of the stock bushings.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
nospam said:
Good news, bmwbushings.com's E46 solution should be ready in about two months. I have been talking with a few different tuners, its seems only Bimmerworld are fans of the powerflex bushings. I'll post more info on bmwbushing's solution soon.
Sounds interesting, looking forward to seeing what they come out with.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Rdizzle said:
I know a damaged control arm bushings will cause your car to shake while braking but I have a different issue. When going highway speeds (60-65 mph) my steering wheel will sometimes sway left, then sway right, then sway left again! It's nice and straight when I'm going slow though...this only happens at highway speeds.

Could this be caused by bad CA bushings as well?
Sure, or it could the control arm ball joints, or just be tire tramlining.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
msphynx said:
i don't know about this being a good DIY without the proper tools. I'm seeing that alot of people are greasing up things in order to get bushings in. This leads to things like slippage that some have experienced (could also be poor desgin).
Coming from an aviation maintenance backgroun I just know bearings and bushing are NEVER greased. You must use the proper tools to both pull the old and press the new, and of course they must go in perfectly, if your angled at all you jeopardize the integrity of the parts.
The two parts of the bushings (inner and out sections) per the instructions should be greased and even have grease retaining grooves in them.

There should not be any grease on the control arm itself and grease shouldn't be used to make the outer bushing fit into the carrier.

Tim
 
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