First there is no software that can "force" the SAP monitor to a Ready/Pass/Clear state. Not sure where you are getting this information.

Next, you state there were 11 trouble codes but no light and the codes were in accurate, this is crap. If there were codes, they were there for a reason AND it sounds like the SES/CEL/MIL has been disabled based on what you are saying about the car. The SES/CEL/MIL NEEDS to be functional for it to pass ANY state SMOG/Emissions test if the inspection is halfway coherent and doing his job.

The SAP Readiness Monitor is the fastest and easiest one to turn to a Ready/Pass/Clear state. It should be in a Ready/Pass/Clear state after the first cold start.

Your year car does not have a MAF based SAP system, it is a simpler system, but has a vacuum based Kombi valve.

Suggest you readjust your expectations and focus on fixing the car correctly and also make sure the SES/CEL/MIL functions properly as it sound like is has been disabled.

Everything you need to know about the SAP systems here:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1041726

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1023149

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=965526

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1052605

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1074847

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=106959

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1074847

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=106959

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1078986

 

jfoj rocks :clap:

 

BTW, the Readers Digest version is there are 3 basic areas where a MAFless SAP system can fail.

1. Airflow or lack of: pump does not run, impeller on pump spins, pump does not put out enough airflow. This tends to be pretty easy to narrow down.

2. Airflow control: Kombi valve stuck, vacuum hoses deteriorated, vacuum control valve damaged or connected wrong, small check valve installed backwards.

3. O2 sensors lazy: This is not as common as the above items #1 & #2. BUT lazy O2 sensors clearly can cause the SAP Monitors to not turn to a a Ready/Pass/Clear state.

What I just do not get so many people are buy 10+ year old cars that someone is selling for a REASON and they seem to expect to not need to do any basic maintenance on them. The OP purchased a 15+ year old car and seems to be perplexed that there are problems with it??? Realistic Expectations need to be considered. I am no expert on CA SMOG rules, but I thought that the seller was responsible for getting the vehicles SMOGed??

But at this point it is what it is. The OP needs to realize that it is not that hard to get the SAP system working properly. It may not even involve much money.

 

you are correct, the seller is responsible for SMOGing the car, unless the buyer gives the seller a pass which is not a good idea unless you know what you are doing. The SMOG test has to be completed within the last 90 days of registering the car.
OP, I suggest you go back to the buyer and have him/her fix. The law is on your side. It is their responsibility to SMOG the car before selling it.
IF the CEL has been disabled, you will not pass SMOG even if you fix everything else.

 

80 degrees is plenty cold to activate the system and get it to clear if it's working. It will clear up fast and easy.

 

jfoj posted this link but it's my thread, I was just where you are on this system this summer. I wanted to bypass the system. I am glad I ended up fixing it.

And it was plenty warm here this summer. Please start with your vacuum lines, ALL THREE of them. People sell cars for $2 of vacuum lines, sounds like you bought one such car.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1078986

 

For the OP benefit, the SAP is not triggered by an Ambient Air Temp sensor, it is triggered by the engine coolant sensor. The SAP will run if and when the engine coolant temperature is below 100-104F which is pretty much every morning after the car sits overnight in most locations. The SAP will run UP TO 90 seconds or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 100-104F.

The SAP system is actually really simple at the end of the day and pretty easy to troubleshoot.

As franz stated, many times the problem is about 3 feet of vacuum hose.

The OP car should be about ready for its 2nd set of plastic and rubber parts under the hood.

 

https://dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/vr/smogfaq#BM2537

 

Hello everyone, I realize there are tons of threads regarding the secondary air system monitor but none which have addressed my question.

So, instead of messing around with the entire secondary air system finding crusty vacuum lines, replacing MAFs, replacing secondary air valves which are perfectly fine, and other things, which software can force the secondary air system monitor ready from incomplete? I know there is a program that does it, just don't know what one does.

Just bought a 2002 330ci which had 11 trouble codes when I checked it but no CEL. Reset all the codes because none of them were accurate so I can pass California smog, after a couple drive cycles, all the codes are complete except for the secondary air system. I highly doubt anything is wrong with the Sec Air Sys, nor do I care if it is. I can live without it. I just need to pass smog. Some people have said the ambient air temperature should be pretty cold to get the monitor to complete but here in Southern California, the lows don't get under 70 and there is no cold weather in the forecast. I only have a limited amount of time to take care of this smog check.

And as of May, 2015 in California, vehicles 2000 and newer may only have the EVAP monitor incomplete. No other monitor except for that. The only way you can get an exemption for another code is taking your car to the dealer and getting a diagnostic report confirming that there is nothing wrong with your car and the monitor is inaccurate. And then, taking that diagnostic report to a state ref smog shop. (Very unlikely the dealer won't create or "find" a problem because of the monitor.)

Would this help you? :hi:

 

I ran into the same problem with my car here in CA. I didn't pass smog because the SAP didn't complete the testing. I drove it, I let it idle, I went through the full OBD2 monitor readiness drive cycle etc and still no SAP monitor completion. You can used the GT1/DIS/ISTA to force the SAP to run and complete the monitor test. INPA does NOT have the capability to do this, only GT1/DIS/ISTA can run the test plan. There are a few threads about what cable to order and how to install the software on here and other sites on the net.

 

:facepalm:

This is the dumbest thread or at least is heading toward the dumbest answers/suggestions.

First California has the strictest Emission requirements in the world. The SMOG tests are fairly comprehensive and you cannot easily get around the SMOG test by trying to reflash the DME or spoof the Readiness Monitors.

There is really NO NEED to try to use any software, it is really exists, to "force" a Readiness Monitor. The SAP system is fairly simple and it is the first and easiest Readiness Monitor to turn to a Ready/Pass/Clear state.

Unless the CA temps are over 100F day in and day out, the SAP should run for at least 30-45 seconds on cold start if not longer. If the SAP runs and there are no problems with the car, the SAP Readiness Monitors should turn to Ready/Pass/Clear state.

If anyone bothers to read all the links I posted almost all the issues are covered and it will not take the OP long to figure out what is going on.

The problem is "Generation Text" want immediate gratification and a software solution for EVERYTHING. Take a few minutes, roll up your sleeves and open the hood. I would bet within about 30 minutes or less the obvious problems can be ruled in or out.

My bet is this 15-16 year old car has the original Pre-cat O2 sensors and few if any of the rubber hoses under the hood have ever been replaced. Also when you get a car that you do not know the history on, you have to assume the worst and methodically work through all the systems and figure out what works and what is connected properly. You cannot assume anything has been done right on the car in the past 15 years.

 

With GT1/DIS you don't force or spoof a readiness monitor, it doesn't reprogram the car, it just runs a diagnostic test plan that runs the vehicle through the test procedures. This includes warming the car up to a certain temperature, then activates the sap pump to blow air into the exhaust manifolds. The diagnostic software shows the O2 sensor voltage and determines if enough air was blown into the system. If the system isn't working/functioning properly it does not pass the monitor. If the system is properly working it will pass and set the monitor. This is the standard way the dealer would start diagnosing a SAP issue. I too live in CA and my car is very well maintained, have owned it for almost 10 years now and am not a "generation txter", every vacuum hose, oxygen sensor, vanos, disa, icv, vcg, etc has been replaced/repaired. I was totally blown away when the SMOG guy said I failed because the monitor for the SAP was not set. I went home and looked over the vacuum hoses etc and found nothing wrong, tried the letting the car idle in accordance with the BMW OBD2 readiness instructions and no luck for a week. As a last resort I got my computer out and fund the diagnostic plan in DISv57 and ran the test, the air flow was sufficient, the valves functioned properly, and the replaced bosch o2 sensors worked flawlessly.

I see this site has not changed much over the years, just wait til Mango or some other jerk starts calling you names harping on changing your ENTIRE cooling system instead of answering your question.

 

Let me tell you this, I deal with the SAP quite often and what I am saying is the OP likely has a problem with his system. As he already stated, he could care less if the SAP system worked and would delete it if he was not in California. So there appears on the surface a lack of interest in properly resolving a problem with the car or even taking a few minutes to actually learn how OBDII and Readiness Monitors work. For someone that "flips" cars in California I would expect this to be something they would want to learn.

My issue is under almost all circumstances the SAP should clear very quickly IF everything in the car is working properly. There may be instances during the warmer weather in CA that the SAP will not run long enough, but I cannot believe the engine coolant temperature will be 100F first thing in the morning.

The thing is, based on what the OP stated on the 11 trouble codes that were "not accurate" and the SES/CEL/MIL did not work. This pretty much tells me the OP likely has a basket case on his hands. In this case, even if he had software to force the SAP to run, chances are the SAP Readiness Monitors would still be an issue.

One thing I can say that I have seen if you end up with one or more monitors not working, resetting the "codes" even if there are not any will RESTART the Readiness Monitor Cycle. The PROBLEM is ALL Readiness Monitors will be RESET so you run the risk of having to wait for more of the Readiness Monitors to turn to a Ready/Pass/Clear state. The situation is you may need to "clear" the codes a few times and see if the SAP does in fact clear.

What MAKES absolutely NO sense is the OP says the car was garage kept and everything under the hood looks brand new and has not been subject to extremes, but at the same times there were 11 inaccurate DTC's and the SES, CEL, MIL did not work. Something just does not add up here.

Again, even with GT1/DIS running the SAP cycle sequence there is no guarantee this will work if there are problems.

For $30 or less the OP can buy an OBDII smart phone/tablet App and graph the O2 sensors on warm up and see EXACTLY what is going on and see if the SAP is running and for how long. Additionally the O2 sensor behavior will be obvious.

If anyone would take a few minutes and read this thread, this was a textbook case the SAP Readiness Monitor not to turning to a Ready/Pass/Clear state.

Lazy O2 sensors were in fact the problem, not anything in the SAP system!

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1041726

An for someone flipping cars, especially in CA you should carry an OBDII tool with you, know how to use and and actually fix the cars properly rather than trying to railroad a car through a SMOG test.

The other problem here is I could CLEARLY see a lack if interest in getting the problem resolved. The OP has already stated he expects to pay "$500+ on useless parts that wont benefit my car in any way". The funny thing is there is no need to spend any more that about $150 or so if the SAP pump is working. Even if the SAP pump is working, I would bet the OP would get a used one on ebay or a junkyard, not purchase a new SAP pump. Also others implying that the maybe DME flash trickery or using GT1/DIS/ISTA may be the answer when it appears on the surface the car has problems.

The funny thing is so many people do not understand what is required for the SAP Readiness Monitor to a to turn to a Ready/Pass/Clear state. Following the "Drive Cycle" procedures does little to anything for the SAP Readiness Monitor. After to the first 90 seconds or 100F coolant temperature the SAP Readiness Monitor window has passed. It will not be able to run again until the engine coolant temperature has dropped below 100F again. All anyone needs to do is start the engine, allow it to idle for 90 seconds before driving the car, if the SAP Readiness Monitor does not turn to a Ready/Pass/Clear state after the first 2 cold starts, there is HIGHLY likely a problem.

The test routine is for repair shops so they can force the system to run after a repair so they do not have to wait a few days. Again in this case it is pretty clear that there is likely a problem that needs to be resolved before even a forced test will produce any results. If the problems are resolved, then running any forced test will not even be necessary.

I would be checking the 30 Amp O2 sensor heater fuse in the DME box, the SAP fuse and make sure the pump runs before I did anything. The inspect the vacuum hoses. Just because they may look good or even be new does not mean they are connected properly and that the small check valve under the intake was not installed backwards. A used 15-16 year old car has a lot of skeletons in the closest and they need to be flushed out.

I am trying to get people to understand that this SAP system is SIMPLE and easy to repair once you spend a few minutes understanding how it works.

 

I didn't post this thread without any knowledge or reading every single topic/thread that was posted as a reply here.

I clearly stated I don't care whether or not the SAP system works. I would delete it from my car if California smog wasn't so strict.

ALL I ASKED FOR WAS IF SOMEBODY KNOWS A SOFTWARE THAT CAN FORCE THE MONITOR TO RUN. (Thank you Mystert.)

Also, yes I realize the seller is responsible for smogging a vehicle but if you have any experience flipping cars especially in a place like LA, that doesn't always happen. I've sold many cars on craigslist with the buyers willing to smog it but I smogged them anyways to avoid legal consequences. If I absolutely have to fix something in the end, I will and I guess I'll just have to take the seller to court.

And to all the know it alls assuming I don't know how to work on a vehicle just because I want a software that can help me pass smog, I have never taken a vehicle to a mechanic in my life. I'm 19 and this is my 6th car that I have personally owned for my use and not to flip. (And I have got many thank you texts/emails from my buyers saying how much they enjoy/have enjoyed the car. Not to mention, compliments on how well I maintained it.)

I would rather pay less than $50 on a cable to help me pass smog than pay $500+ on useless parts that wont benefit my car in any way and just help my cat "warm up quicker." (And no, just because the monitor is not completing, doesn't mean something is wrong with your car. It can also mean the conditions aren't right. I've read threads about people spending $800 on their secondary air system and it still being incomplete. Then, they get their ECM values reset and after a cold start or two, it completes.)

 

Fair enough and good luck, but why wouldn't you pay $3 and just replace the vacuum lines and see if that works since you are obviously capable of doing so?

 

I'll give it a shot but highly doubt the vacuum lines are the issue. The car was garage kept it's entire life (meaning less wear and tear from the heat of the sun) and all the other lines/hoses look like new on the car.

 

After having a similar experience I replaced the larger hose along with the vacuum hoses and it passed emissions. There is no getting around it, it must be fixed in order to get tags.

 

5 feet is enough.

 

your car may have been garage kept, I have an 03 325Ci and it also was garage kept, but I am finding out, the hoses and rubber pieces that were OEM are crap after a few years. I had a horrible idle issue, replaced a few things here and there, THEN developed a vacuum leak. Replaced the oil separator, all the vacuum lines, etc, car runs AMAZING, and no SES. I know this isn't your problem, I was just stating the hoses crumble and could cause more of an issue than you may have previously thought.

 

Out of pure research and curiosity:

Would you be willing to test a software solution? We need people to test and you would be very welcome :thumbup: If you have an OBD interface, its taking ~6min do test it.

 

Explain the software solution please. I am aware of some of what you have been involved in.

However, I really do not think this car/poster is the best test case. It appears this person has no interest in fixing the car properly, or at least not from the initial post. The car clearly has some problems and these should be sorted out before worrying about anything else. Just calling it how I see it, not trying to start anything.

Also being a California car, there is really no work around for spoofing or disabling the system if the Readiness is listed as not supported. The SAP system has a purpose and it is to help with air quality and O2 sensor warm up.

Granted a lot can be tweaked in software, but just because something can be tweaked does not mean it is necessarily a good idea. So even if something can be tweaked and spoofed when not working correctly, in the long run it is not in the cars or the environments best interest. Do not forget, as they say most animals do not crap where they eat, or at least smart ones.

 

JFOJ have you ever used the BMW diagnostic software GT1/DIS etc? It appears you have not because you keep talking about spoofing or disabling things. GT1/DISv57 does not allow coding(aka reprogramming) of computer modules. The coding ability was removed from the software after v44 and even so the coding/reprogramming was very limited. V44 coding only allowed for updating software based upon the country the car was built/programed for by the factory. To DISABLE the SAP you would have to reprogram the car to a use an old EU DME software version. GT1/DIS is UNABLE TO DO THIS. Secondly, there is no SPOOFING involved. Instead of the car automatically running through the SAP monitor test, the technician or computer operator tells the car to run the test. If the system works, the test will complete and set the monitor, if the system does not work, it recommends what to inspect and repair in order to get the system to function properly. The GT1/DIS software is a powerful diagnostic tool capable to testing most if not all the electronic systems of the car but it is not a magical fix all program. It is a dealer level software and does not allow custom reprogramming other than comfort settings. Get familiar with what the software is ACTUALLY capable of before spreading misinformation about it spoofing and disabling emissions functions.

According to the BMW drive cycle, to set the SAP you need to let the car idle from Cold for approximately 2min 10 second. Maybe hes just hopping in his car and drive off to his destination instead of letting it idle properly. It could be as simple a solution as that.

Everyone on this site needs to deal with the fact that e46s are dirt cheap now and every 16 year old kid can afford a clapped out one.

 

I clearly know about GT1/DIS and so forth. I am not spreading mis-informaiton. There are multiple people responding in this thread and I believe on one response may have been offering to code out the SAP, but not 100% sure if this was the case because there is was not much info provided.

All you are mentioning is that the GT1/DIS has the ability to force the SAP test on the car. This may be useful in a shop environment after a repair has been made so the car does not need to sit over night and be started and driven under the conditions required for normal SAP operations. This is no different then the ability to clear Adaptions, it is so the shop/tech can confirm almost immediately if a repair was successful without having to keep the car and drive or return it to the customer and risk a come back.

Yes the ideal situation for the SAP to cycle and test properly is to start the car from cold and let it idle on its own for a few minutes. I have A LOT of detailed test information and data that I have gathered and I would say that 90 seconds seems to be the magic time window for the most port. BUT in severely cold conditions, the SAP will NOT run or may only run for at most 5 seconds, so there is a temperature window that is more ideal for the SAP to run and test itself.

I am responding the masses AND the way I respond on this forum and many others is in a way that people can learn and be self sufficient on fixing the problems with their cars with the basic tools and equipment and not over the top specialty hardware or software.

I think it is pretty clear we are dealing with a young "flipper" that is only interested in getting the car to pass a CA SMOG test so it can be sold. Not sure if this was an auction car or what the situation is/was. Reading carefully it appears this car has problems and even using the GT1/DIS sequence would not likely solve the problem,

Here is a CLASSIC case of a similar problem where the GT1/DIS program would have not solved anything and a simple smart phone OBDII App and some smarts prevailed.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1041726

You kind of answered the OP's question, but I believe he wants the problem to go away, not just have a routine to be commanded on. The SAP test routine is commanded on every time the car is started cold after the codes are cleared and in a way the same routine is run every time the engine is started cold to monitor the health and activity of the SAP system.

SOFTWARE IS NOT GOING TO SOLVE THE OP's PROBLEM IN THIS SITUATION. It gets cold enough where the OP is located at this time of year for the SAP Readiness Monitors to change to a Ready/Clear/Pass state if the system and pre-cat O2 sensors are in good shape.

 

I live in SoCal also have had personal experience with a similar situation as the OP and . Like is said before, my car is in pristine shape mechanically and at 213k. In the past 1.5 years I have replaced every vacuum hose etc when pulling the intake manifold to replace the plastic heater pipes located under it. It runs better than the day I bought it 8+ years ago. I preventatively replaced the battery, drove the car regularly for about a month before getting it smogged for registration renewal. Surprisingly it failed for not having the SAP monitor set. No check engine light, no drivability issues, no codes in the computer, etc. I was blown away that it didn't pass. For two weeks I let the car idle from cold for 2min 10s, 5min, 10, min, even 30min. Drove it through the drive cycle many times and no matter what I would do it wouldn't set the SAP monitor. The only way I was able to get it to set was to run the test via the GT1/DIS software. Once that was done, a quick visit to the smog shop and I had my smog certificate. To this day I have no idea why it wouldn't run on its own. Ive never had a issue in the 8 years of previous ownership.

 

High ambient temperatures can possibly cause a delay in the monitor from clearing because the pump does not run after 100-104F engine coolant temperature as I recall.

No need to idle more than 2 minutes for the SAP, it only runs for the first 90 or so seconds or until the engine coolant temperature of 100-104F is reached.

Also lazy O2 sensors can cause the SAP monitor to no clear as quickly and I have RARELY ever had any codes for lazy O2 sensors, usually failed/open heater circuits or blown heater circuit fuses..

I have not confirmed this, but if the O2 sensor heaters turn on with the key in position 2, you might be able to pre-warm the O2 sensors and I find if you reset the codes, even if there are not any, that this will kind of force the Readiness Monitor cycle to be quicker. I do not know the full routine used, but this is what I have found.

Clear codes, cold start idle for 2 minutes at the most. If it is during the peak Summer heat and your overnight temps are mid 80F, you may have some challenges.

 

My o2 sensors have about 30k on them and I had trouble setting the code. The kid in the OP could be experiencing the same issues as I did. Sure most BMW people are disgusted by the boy racer types that are buying these cars now, (lower it with big rims and window tint with no regard to maintenance types) but you gotta accept that they are part of the community now. Yes they annoying and dumb but they aren't going away.

 

Q

Wow, it's been a while since I made this thread. Have learned a lot in the past 2 years. Happened to find this thread on google looking for a mercedes software.

For those who wanted to know what happened with my car, yes I did find a software solution that forced the monitor to ready. None of the 11 codes came back after that. Car drove fine for 3 months and then started misfiring and going into limp mode. Threw 9 random codes mostly lean codes. Smoke tested the car with a $6 air pump and a cigar, disa valve was bad. Replaced it with an aftermarket URO valve and no more issues. Drove the car for 2 years only doing oil changes and CEL never came on. Since then, I've sold the car and bought a couple others. Now in the market for a stick shift E46 M3.

Sometimes you don't need to diagnose everything on your car just need to use your brain.

 

Wow, it's been a while since I made this thread. Have learned a lot in the past 2 years. Happened to find this thread on google looking for a mercedes software.

For those who wanted to know what happened with my car, yes I did find a software solution that forced the monitor to ready.

A "software solution" is no solution. It does not fix the problem!!!

Sometimes you don't need to diagnose everything on your car just need to use your brain.

You always need to use your brain, but I also try to get members to understand how to "Diagnose" because while you may fix something today with a simple or lucky guess, tomorrow may be a very different day.

Using software to work around a problem is not a solution, it is just delaying the inevitable. So many of these cars at year 10-15+ are poorly maintained, hacked up or Frankencars, have crap or Asian counterfeit replacement parts. You never know what you will be finding if you actually open the hood, inspect and diagnose things vs hooking a cable up to a laptop and expecting to "repair" a problem.

For those checking in here and that have questions about "codes", this is a very good explanation of how codes function, are detected and what tools are necessary to read them - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1126944

 

I had to replace the o2 sensors. Then on first start they were ready. Of coarse I replaced everything else first. Damn o2 sensors. If there original I would replace.

Sent from my SM-N900T using E46Fanatics mobile app

 

I assumed so, BUT, as this is a PUBLIC forum, you have to be careful how things get tossed around. Because then EVERYONE wants software to bypass or work around things rather than ACTUALLY repairing the problem!!! :banghead: Seems that FAR TOO many people think the only way you can repair is car is with manufacturer software, but is rarely needed. OBDII is what is really required for Driveability issues.

The SAP system is one of the EASIEST systems to diagnose, troubleshoot and repair. Unfortunately too many people look for bandaids and other solutions or just want to remove the SAP system all together. The SAP system has little to no impact on overall engine performance, it adds very little weight to the car and is actually easy to repair.

So my suggestion to ANYONE that runs across this threads is to REPAIR the SAP system, do not worry about software, this is NOT a solution.

I guarantee that I can diagnose and troubleshoot a problem SAP system and get it working with minimal parts, but if the car has a 3 wire MAF and original Pre-cat O2 sensors, chances are they are LONG overdue for replacement.

Yes, it is recommended they be replaced at 100k miles, I am finding cars with 200-275k miles with the original O2 sensors still installed, past the point that the 2nd replacement set of O2 sensors should have been installed!

 

02 sensors don't go bad based on Miles, they go bad based on hours of run time, fuel quality&type, maintenance etc, its a package deal.
I've had fleet rigs that got 250K on a sensor (Running all highway miles almost no city) and taxi's that cant get to 50K on one..
You can test the functions of the O2 (Part of what the SAP is doing with the ECU... )
The way to "test" an O2 is to read the voltage with a scope unless its really fouled or really shot.
(For the sensor that borderline maybe working 99% when running but sketchy when not heated up)
The alternative is to throw parts and $$ at it... After you've done the basics, checked hoses, checked controls, checked codes.
Don't totally blow off a hard reset and a clean diag to get a ECU right, Both my BMW's have had the computer glitch when there
was a secondary electrical event (Bad batteries and alternators) and the only thing that got them finally right after diagnosing
and repairing the issues, reset via software..

 

I've been using factory (and others) software to diagnose and test BMWs forever.
On some versions of DME you can run a secondary air test and get that monitor to complete.

I have NEVER seen the EVAP complete other than by itself, ever...