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Fitment questions, for Work Meisters

992 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  cigma2312
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Recently took delivery of my “new to me” Work Meister 3p wheels and looking for some tips on fitment.
Wheel Specs: 18x8.5 32ET & 18x10 35ET - 5x114.3
72.56mm hub oddly enough
Tire Specs: 225/40/18 & 245/40/18

Rear Fenders are rolled a decent amount, but not flat! Some of you die-hard BMW purists may be utterly disgusted about these wheels/specs of these wheels and I quite frankly just don’t care.

Since these are 5x114.3 wheels, I went ahead and bought 5x120 to 5x114.3 adapters that are 14mm thick (all around), bringing my ETs to 18 and 21. I’m not too worried about the fronts, as they’re 8.5” wide (maybe I should be idk), but the rear is 10” wide and sticks out like a sore thumb. Because of that, I purchased camber arms for the rear too, but yet to buy any camber plates for the toe caster. I want “Hella-Flush” kind of fitment (whatever that dumbass term is), so I wanna know how much camber I would need to run in the rear & front for that flush look (with some stretch) and to avoid crazy rubbing at the same time.

In each picture you see below, 10mm spacers were on the hubs.

Ignore the plastic bumper, I’m wrapping the car in Sherwood Green very soon.
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In each picture you see below, 10mm spacers were on the hubs.
I see no pics.
18x10 with an et21 in the rear? maybe if you stretch a 225 out back - the 245 will still rub
You'll need max camber, and at that point, why run a 10 wide if its on its edge

I see no pics.
You should be able to see now
why run a 10 wide if its on its edge
It's a form over function thing, I frankly find it absurd that people LIKE to make their cars harder to drive and operate. To each their own, sure it's got the look sitting in a parking lot. But if BMW made the ultimate driving machine, tilty wheels make them the ultimate parking machine.
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It's a form over function thing, I frankly find it absurd that people LIKE to make their cars harder to drive and operate. To each their own, sure it's got the look sitting in a parking lot. But if BMW made the ultimate driving machine, tilty wheels make them the ultimate parking machine.
I’m going for a show car look that’s still drivable and solid performance, not a track car. Sure maybe 10” wide is a little crazy? That’s why I’m asking for tips or input if I should just relip or manage to get away with it without it looking like a JDMsadboyz car. Lol
I’m going for a show car look that’s still drivable and solid performance, not a track car. Sure maybe 10” wide is a little crazy? That’s why I’m asking for tips or input if I should just relip or manage to get away with it without it looking like a JDMsadboyz car. Lol
An extra inch and a half, all being suspended off the oe hardware on aftermarket adaptors? Sure, if you drive it on and off a trailer. Extra stress of added distance is gonna be extra strain on an already old car. Talking about subframe reinforcement control arms, trailing arms, tie rods, alignment. Just to be drivable on the street. Let alone legal.

Tldr;

You will need extra work to make those fit. Let alone drive able over 25 mph. But people do this
and it works so don't let that stop you
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I run a 245/45/18, falcon 660, apex 18x9 et35 square set up all they way around for track and auto x, you have to roll the rears a good bit to make them fit, you can pull the rears out a good bit but if your trying to go that aggressive you might just want to get a wide body kit, k2 industries has a few ones for the sedans
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I don't know if you finally did this. It's extremely hard to get answers on non m fitment. The ones that have aggressive wheels don't share and the purists get mad if you run anything wider than 9 inches. I'll leave my experience. I have a 2004 325i. I am currently running 18x9.5 +22 TE37SL on 255/35 Nankangs. I have fitted 5mm spacers all around because i was shopping for new wheels and wanted to see if they would fit. My with the spacers my specs were 18x9.5 +17 which is 2mm less aggressive than what you're running. I am on BC BR Coilovers and have rear camber arms. My camber up front is -3 degrees and -3.9 degrees in the rear. I did shave the rear fenders and removed the bumper bracket and the stud that holds it. I don't have rear toe brackets. I'm currently maxed out on rear camber anymore and I'll need the toe brackets to correct it. I have almost 10k miles on this and tires are not over worn or anything weird if you have 0 toe you won't have crazy wear. I am thinking of starting of thread on my wheel fitment on all 3 of my non m e46s once I figure out how to post pictures.
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answers on non m fitment
That's because the fitment from the factory gives you all the grip you need with the non-m platforms. I am running the 17" zhp setup on my 330ci and I havent felt the need for more tire. I haven't even squeaked a corner yet.

Plus the majority of the forums users are not exactly about the race inspired cosmetic enhancements. To each their own.
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