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Discussion starter · #42 ·
I'm constructing my smoker ...

In the event that I replace the hoses, are there upgrades which I can replace them with rather than the OEM ones?
 
P0171/4 and high fuel trims are usually fuel delivery (pump, filter), vacuum leaks, or sensors. With high mileage cars it can often be all three.

As mentioned above, high trims at idle suggests vacuum leaks (for the reason mentioned), higher trims at high revs suggests fuel delivery, because of progressive starvation as the engine demands more. High trims at both suggest sensors. But these are just directional.

There are certainly other causes - harness and connector issues, bad DCM, and bad gas/ethanol, but the three above are much more likely.

If you have these codes and/or high trims, you really should start by testing fuel delivery, as it is not hard. Low pressure is a failing pump, inability to hold pressure is filter. Then I recommend completely refreshing vacuum hoses, boots and gaskets. These cars are old and it can be silly to do one piece here and there. Once you have done this, do a smoke test or have one done professionally.

Finally, the sensors. You can't evaluate a MAF based on point in time reading. I suspect without more sophistication it is hard to test at all unless you can get a new MAF, plug it in, wait for adaptations to reset and adjust, then compare. O2 sensors can be evaluated if you have a known good sample dataset. When they start going they respond slower, which can be seen in a graph. My advice for the usual 150k+ miles crowd is just replace the MAF and precat o2 sensors.

If I were in your shoes I would replace the vacuum hoses, including the SAP and the hose that connects to the fuel filter. I would replace the dipstick o-ring, the DISA gasket, and the idle control valve seal. And I would replace the intake boots. I would at least inspect the other o-rings and seals for the injectors and sensors in the manifold. The combination of age and intermittent use has likely compromised it all. And replace the CCV if you haven't.

Rubber and plastics decay with heat, sun, and age, not just mileage. And your car is old.

And do a fuel pressure test. It is just not hard to do.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Can you change your maf reading to g/s and then tell us what it is engine fully warmed, idling, and all accessories off.
I tried to look at the different settings but cannot find how to change the units.
Can you illuminate a little, please?
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
The instructions for connecting the tool are correct. However I would do the process a little differently.

Attach the gauge to the Schrader valve
Turn the ignition to position 2 - don***8217;t start the engine
Read the pressure after pump has primed - should be 50psi
Turn off ignition
Wait 30 minutes
Read pressure - should still be 50 psi

If it doesn***8217;t reach pressure, it is the pump. If it doesn***8217;t keep it it is the filter. Could be both.
 
Discussion starter · #52 · (Edited)
Self-healing

Background: the car was seldom driven much by the previous owner

I have been driving it everyday since I got it and as of the last 2-3 days, the
  1. Short-term Fuel Trim (on both banks)
  2. MAFS rate
all look pretty normal for now after the engine is warmed up.

No more Pending alerts.
 

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Discussion starter · #53 ·
Im going to continue to monitor it while I construct the smoker and most likely start replacing the vacuum system tubings.
 
Just remember that your current fuel trim for each bank is Long Term + Short Term so a STFT of 0 may not indicate that everythings perfect, just that the air/fuel correction has steadied. Best to look at both short and long trims which is easy enough to add to your dashboard (you can also change them to digital gauges, I find the the needle dial gauges hard to read).

Definitely get a smoke test done when you can.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
By the way, what's the normal engine temperature range after the car is warmed up in like 10-15 mins of driving?
 
Discussion starter · #58 · (Edited)

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Discussion starter · #60 ·
Those are massive. Sometimes when you are removing the air box you can cause the bottom intake boot to slip off the throttle body. But you need to do a smoke test. That will show you where the leak is.
I've already found where the leak is in my last post.
Just to need to ID the part.
 
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