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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

After 5+ year the OEM battery in my 2008 335i gave up (Temp here has been in single-digit didn't help either). So after searching around the various forums I finally figured out the aftermarket direct replacement will be the H8-AGM type and wanted to share my experience for public benefits. :thumbsup:

I got mine from AutoZone but I believe exact same battery (with different brand) can be purchase at Advance Auto Parts and other fine automotive part stores.



The fitment is perfect. I just have to cover up the rear vent hole (only front vent is connected). And I didn't bother w/ resetting the computer as I don't want to invest on BT at this time and I refuse to give my $ to the stealership. :banghead:









 

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Nice thread! Was the front and rear vent connected to the old battery? If it was, you should be able to find a way to connect both vents, to avoid excess fumes from accumulating in the car.

What are the ill effects of not "registering" the battery at the dealer? I thought they substantially affected the running of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Only the front vent tube is connected to the old battery. I just tape over the rear vent so no fume should be in the car.

I do not know what exactly 'registering' the battery really means to the battery and the car, but so far I face zero issue. I'll update this forum as time goes on.

Thanks
 

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If you don't register the battery, the car's computer will still think you have the old one in and won't charge it correctly. There's probably some other stuff too, but the basic effect is it will significantly reduce the life span of your new battery. You don't have to go to the dealer to get it registered, anyone with the knowledge of coding these cars can do it. Sadly, I have no clue how to though. You could probably go to some indy shop and they should be able to do it.
 

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The Bentley Reply

"Register battery replacement" to notify vehicle power management (software in the engine electronics and intelligent battery sensor) that a new battery is fitted in the vehicle."

"Without new battery registration, CAS and vehicle power management does not run properly and this can lead to function limitations; for example: reduction or deactivation of individual consumer functions." (whatever that means)

"During battery registration, the following operations are performed:
Current mileage is stored
Stored values from old battery (charge status, current, voltage, temperature, etc.) are deleted.
Power management is initialized."

Scottsdale BMW told me there would be a 1 hr labor charge, but when I took it in, it only took them 5 minutes ... no charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks mkov

Funny how this reminds me of today's chipped inkjet cartridges. You know if you don't buy OEM cartridges the printer will complain endlessly. :rolleyes:

There's just too much noise / black magic / snake oils on the various forums about this topic and I have not seen many definite and verifiable information on the negative effects of not doing battery registration. There are a lot of opinions, single-instance events that gets overblown, and very little factual information around the topic. What I know are:

  • This aftermarket battery costs less than $200 w/ tax.
  • The Duralast battery has 3 yr warranty. That's my minimum lifespan of the battery even if the charging system is completely out of wack and killed the battery before that I'll have a 100% free replacement
  • New battery from dealer + registration costs $500 or more.
  • OEM battery lasted 5 year (from my experience)

So going OEM route, the running cost of the battery will be at least $100/year approximately (which is very expensive running cost of a car battery, if you ask me). Assuming worst case scenario where this aftermarket replacement battery died because the registration wasn't done, it will costs me at most $66/year running cost. Still coming out on top. Of course that assumes nothing else goes wrong because of it. :)

I'm currently in a tight budget (huge Vet bills, which is a different unrelated story) so I can't be spending $ unless it's really needed. What I think would make the most sense at this point is to call around to see if an indy shop can do the registration for cheap. Otherwise I'll leave it as is and see if there's really black magic and snake oil.

"Register battery replacement" to notify vehicle power management (software in the engine electronics and intelligent battery sensor) that a new battery is fitted in the vehicle."

"Without new battery registration, CAS and vehicle power management does not run properly and this can lead to function limitations; for example: reduction or deactivation of individual consumer functions." (whatever that means)

"During battery registration, the following operations are performed:
Current mileage is stored
Stored values from old battery (charge status, current, voltage, temperature, etc.) are deleted.
Power management is initialized."

Scottsdale BMW told me there would be a 1 hr labor charge, but when I took it in, it only took them 5 minutes ... no charge.
 

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I read unless you replaced your OEM with the exact same battery you will need to register it for the reasons described above. Most places charge $50.
 

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No there's no need to replace with exact same OEM battery. But however, even if you use an autozone battery, it's still a good idea to register it. I'm not sure the exact brand/model number, but there are other batteries with the exact same specifications as the OEM battery, and you can use those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
From what I can tell it doesn't matter what battery you replaced with, OEM, non-OEM, same spec, diff spec. All supposed to be registered.

One week so far, not yet registered, zero problem. :) Lets see how it goes.
 

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From what I can tell it doesn't matter what battery you replaced with, OEM, non-OEM, same spec, diff spec. All supposed to be registered.

One week so far, not yet registered, zero problem. :) Lets see how it goes.
I need a new Battery, for my 08' 335i.
Any problems, with non-OEM? Or...


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

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Hey guys, just wanted to weigh in on the aftermarket issue.
There are several reasons to register the new battery. Most of them have been pointed out here.
However, there are a few you are missing. The main purpose of registering the battery to the car is to ensure
the proper voltage, reading, and charge type to the computer. The factory battery is a glass mat battery (AGM).
However, many aftermarket users decide to go with a lead acid battery (still in a H8 size) due to cost (whole other issue haha).
When you register the battery to the car, it asks you what type of battery is being used, and also logs when it was replaced.
You select either a AGM or Lead acid battery and the car will choose the appropriate charge settings. Most issues come into play when
a lead acid battery is used in place of the AGM battery and it is never registered. I do not know the technical reasons why, but I have
experienced several customers getting batteries at NTB, Mom and Pop Shops, and other shops not necessarily experienced with BMWs and the lead acid batteries are destroyed in as soon as 2-3 weeks.
One other interesting fact... Once the battery has been logged to have been replaced 9 times (maybe 8, I cant recall), the PCM has to be replaced.

My shop uses a Snap-On Verus with the full Euro package, and is completely capable of battery registration. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO GO TO THE DEALERSHIP.
Hope this clears a few things up!
 

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After market battery

Thanks, that does help.
The Dealer said I needed a new Battery, I brought it home and tested it.
The battery has 11.9 volts on it.
I'm thinking, I can wait awhile to replace it.
Or does the (AGM) batteries go down quickly?
 

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If you have a battery reading 11.9v, it needs to be replaced. Now is not the time to be cheap. BMWs (european vehicles in general) have very complex electrical systems that rely on a
constant voltage. A good battery should be putting out a constant 12.6v. There is a good chance you will start running into electrical issues soon. Also, running a car with a weak battery can
cause unneeded stress on the alternator. The risks are not worth putting off the cost of a new battery.
Its time to bite the bullet. Make sure to get a AGM battery as suggested (and equipped) from the manufacturer. As stated previously, you can use lead acid, but the cost difference isnt very
substantial if buying the part yourself.
 

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Thanks again for your help.
Just changed out the battery, with an AGM style battery.
Now I just need to find a place that will register it.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

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If you have a battery reading 11.9v, it needs to be replaced. Now is not the time to be cheap. BMWs (european vehicles in general) have very complex electrical systems that rely on a
constant voltage. A good battery should be putting out a constant 12.6v. There is a good chance you will start running into electrical issues soon. Also, running a car with a weak battery can
cause unneeded stress on the alternator. The risks are not worth putting off the cost of a new battery.
Its time to bite the bullet. Make sure to get a AGM battery as suggested (and equipped) from the manufacturer. As stated previously, you can use lead acid, but the cost difference isnt very
substantial if buying the part yourself.
Putting a meter on my parked car battery produced 12.3v. The car was parked for several days and then driven on a short trip. When I parked it I got a "low battery" dash light. Later I took it for a longer ride before measuring that 12.3v.

Trouble or normal given the circumstances? I could leave a trickle charger on there for a few days.
 
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