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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started the car and drove to store, all was well.

when I started car to go back home, CEL came on. I always ignore this because it always comes on and then goes away whenever I get fuel. Some emission error.

However 5 minutes into the drive at a stop light, all of a sudden the battery light and red oil pressure light are on . I stepped on gas to pull over on shoulder but realized car was off. So restarted and managed to drive all the way home no problem.

scanned the car with pasoft and got both the inlet camshaft sensor twice and also crankshaft sensor code.

The camshaft is easy to replace so I can do that however do I need to replace crankshaft also? Because it seems like a pain, need to remove entire intake manifold.
926522
 

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A bad crank sensor would cause the car to not start at all if I'm not mistaken.
 

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If the engine stalls while the key is in Position 2 (RUN), then the battery and oil lights are expected. They do not indicate any fault, other than the key being on while the engine is off. During the time before Engine Start and when you turn the key to RUN, these lights come on, when the engine stops running (a stall) then the lights turn on again. The stall should have resulted in the Check Engine (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Light being on as well, the ABS and a few other lights should also come on with Key ON, Engine OFF.
 

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The Crank Sensor is yellow, it is not the cause of the stall. The status indicator of the Cam Sensor is not visible, but it can be the cause of the stall if it is red. The Tank Vent Fault can be red, but it will not give a stall. You see the check boxes along the left side margin, they are filled with red or yellow. Red boxes are active faults, and the cam position sensor is the only one that can be red and result in a stall.
 

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scanned the car with pasoft and got both the inlet camshaft sensor twice and also crankshaft sensor code.

The camshaft is easy to replace so I can do that however do I need to replace crankshaft also? Because it seems like a pain, need to remove entire intake manifold.
It sounds like you only need the cam position sensor. I think the crank sensor code is just a side effect of a rough engine caused by bad cam sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry for the bad photo, but all the colors were YELLOW and none were RED. Just was in a rush and took a bad photo.

These camshaft and crankshaft sensor codes weren't there a month ago when I checked, just all this emission codes and exhaust temp codes that I had for years.

Anyone know if the Febi brand that they sell at Napa is OEM? What about Vemo? Dorman? I can try the local wonderful BMW dealership however I have a feeling they will want like $500 CAD for this sensor and most likely won't be in stock. Whenever I need any part they tell me its in Germany and to go to Pick n Pull instead.
 

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The yellow codes mean that the fault was measured and stored while the car looks for more instances of a fault.

If the CEL is not on while the engine is running, then none of the codes you reported caused the stall.

Get a good OBD 2 scanner. You can get an ELM-327 module from eBay or Amazon, then get Torque Pro or OBD Fusion from your app store for your device. The module gets plugged into your car, it will send engine management data to the app to be displayed on your phone or tablet, Without getting bogged down in details, the total price for this stuff should be about $30 for the module and the app. It will give data that can be graphed, it will also give you the engine codes in the OBD 2 format, and it will reset the engine computer then track the Readiness Monitors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The CEL was on when it stalled. However the CEL is on sometimes due to the fuel tank ventilation emission errors. Those come and go. Usually they appear when I get fuel, then go away and don't come back until I refuel again.

So the CEL might of been on due to the bad camshaft sensor OR emissions, can't tell which because I didnt have a scanner connected at the time.

I do have those ELM327 wifi scanners, however I used PaSoft because I figured it would be more accurate. I drove another 50KM since this happened and didn't get any stalling issues or rough idles or anything. Is it possible the issue can be intermitant?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So can't you just unplug the crankshaft sensor and drive around like that as long as both the intake/exhaust cams sensors are working?
 

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No, a bad crankshaft position sensor will not cause a no start.
DME will revert to using camshaft position sensors for timing.
Interesting. Is there a year cutoff to that? Because my 11/02 build M54 wouldn't start when sensor went bad.
 

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So the CEL might of been on due to the bad camshaft sensor OR emissions, can't tell which because I didnt have a scanner connected at the time.

I do have those ELM327 wifi scanners, however I used PaSoft because I figured it would be more accurate. I drove another 50KM since this happened and didn't get any stalling issues or rough idles or anything. Is it possible the issue can be intermitant?

I think you need an OBD 2 scan tool, the ELM-327 plus the app is about as good as it gets, and the codes it spits out follow the OBD 2 specifications.

Are you saying that the CEL is not on now? The evap system fault will not cause the engine to die, but the crank and/or cam sensor certainly can, but the fault that makes them kill the engine does not usually cure itself. I suppose you could have an active fault but not have the MIL on, but that is illogical in my head. If the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light, also called the Check Engine Light) is on, then you will see what the scan tool displays as an active fault or a pending fault, the active fault is the reason for the MIL, the pending fault is an instance where a value was out of range but then came back into range so the engine computer is just holding it in memory waiting for it to go out of range again, it's Pending.

The engine computer spits out data, and the scan tools display the data.

The accuracy of the data is not dependent upon the display device, but the value of the data is dependent upon the degree of translation that is needed -- most of us know what P0300 means, but few might recognize the hex code that means the same thing. You are throwing out hex codes when we can help you best with the OBD 2 Codes. I have an actual scan tool (Innova 3100e, I think) that tells me which codes are actively causing me grief and which are waiting to sneak up on me later, pending.
 

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Notice, too, that the cam sensor (41 hex) and the evap system (FA hex) both appear as DTC (active) and Shadow (pending). Given the information presented so far, my money is on the cam position sensor as the source, Having said that, the crank sensor is also reporting, No Signal, and together the cam and crank sensor fails might point to a wiring issue or the ECU. My Bentley Manual for the E46 does not give any useful information as to the pinouts to check. (I have an E36 Bentley that is far better at giving useful information on the schematics for the car.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When I scanned for codes I cleared the CEL and drove around for 40-50km without any CEL. Then the CEL appeared again, I scanned for codes and it was the emissions again, not the cam/crank sensors.

From what I understand its most likely the camshaft sensor and it'll replace that first and see if it comes back in the next few days/weeks. From some posts it seems its a rare issue and only happens once a month/once a quarter.
 

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As for which brand of camshaft sensor to buy, stay away from Dorman. Absolute junk. The supplier of the sensors to bmw was VNE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Couldn't find any store selling the OE sensor. Basically need to order it online somewhere. Even dealer didn't have it in stock.

So went to pick n pull and took it from there. I noticed that the one from pick n pull is an upgraded sensor from my old one.

My old one is 12141438081 and its not completely cylinder shape there is larger diameter towards the plug and the piece that goes inside the engine has a smaller diameter.

The one I got from pick n pull has PN 12147539165 and it seems it was used in middle of 2004. This one is fully cylindered.

So anyone know if these 2004+ Sensors are more reliable? I am trying to determine if the sensor was already replaced in that Pick n pull car however I didn't get the year. However if the part was manufacteured in mid 2004, does that mean only a 2005 would have this new part and any other year it would have to be a replaced part?
 

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Can't speak to the reliability question. I can tell you the part changed numbers 3 times:
12 14 1 435 350 6/26/1998
12 14 1 438 081 10/25/2004
12 14 7 539 165 10/26/2004>
 

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So can't you just unplug the crankshaft sensor and drive around like that as long as both the intake/exhaust cams sensors are working?
It will run in emergency mode, as without the crank sensor the ignition timing cannot be optimized since this relies on the high resolution encoded pulses, and the one-pulse-per-turn cam sensors are very low resolution signals. It also might not be able to detect cylinder misfire as this also depends on the speed sensing of the crank signal.
 
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