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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, here's my history. Got a 2000 328i a month ago. Drove it all the way back to Indiana from Texas and it drove great. No codes, so I thought. A few days later, I noticed it was idling rough until it got to temperature. It would be at 700 rpm's and then almost stall as it would drop to about 400 rmp's, but would catch itself and go back up to 700 rpm's. It would do this over and over (never actually stalling) until it was warmed up and then it was fine. It drove fine too. Then I started noticing it would actually drive really crappy before it was warmed, so I would stop, turn the car off, restart and then it would drive fine again. I thought something must be wrong, so I went to Auto Zone and had them check for codes, even though I didn't have a CEL on. They found 8 codes. I figured my CEL must have gone out or something, so I popped off the instrument panel to find that someone had taped the backside of the cluster card with black electrical tape to cover the CEL, among others!

Anyway, then I dropped the car off at the shop for 2 weeks while they fixed the rear sub-frame issue. (Dodged that $5k bullet!) When i picked up the car, they had cleared all the codes and it ran pretty good again. No codes for a few days. It still had the rough cold idle though.

Then, a few days later, i started to notice that when I would accelerate at low RPM's it would sort of cough and sputter a bit. It just wouldn't get up and go. But it was intermittent. When this started happening, i got the P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire code. Then, a few days later, my wife took the car for a while and when I got it back, it was running horribly at all RPM's, in all gears, all the time. I'd have it in 2nd at 3000 rpm's and would floor it and would give me maybe 1/4 power - sputtering and choking the whole way. So, i immediately took it to Auto Zone and found the following codes:

P0300 - random multi-cylinder mis-fires
P1470 - Leakage Diagnostic Pump Control Circuit Electrical
P0304 – Cylinder 4 Misfire
P0302 – Cylinder 2 Misfire
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P1397 - Exhaust Cam Position Sensor Malfunction
P1423 - Secondary Air Injection Bank 1 Flow Too Low
P1421 - Secondary Air Injector Valve Circuit Short to Ground

I've read a few threads on each of these, and there seem to be so many places to start, I was wondering if anybody had any insight specific to these symptoms I've described. I'm a DIY'er, but every project I do is the first time I've done it, so I do need some big time direction. Thanks to anybody who can offer their expertise and help me get her running again.
 

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would be good to know the mileage. for the misfires i'd have to say its the sparkplugs unless u already got them changed recently.

secondary air injector is the one that pumps air into your engine when the engine is cold. perhaps theres a leak somewhere in those pipes? its probably from wear and tear.
i'd also have to guess that your fuel pump is about to go out or some sort. Before mine completely died. it would have rough idles at initial start up too. THen it finally died one night and i had to get it towed and fixed = = wish i knew about it sooner.

someone correct me if im wrong
 

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My strategy:

First, check for water in the ebox as this can cause multiple faults all at once. Judging from the history, though, it is likely that there actually are a lot of problems that have been ignored and have backed up over time.

Cam sensor: could be causing misfire, is probably actually a bad cam sensor. Check connector and wiring to DME for problems (oil, poor connection, broken insulation), and replace sensor if connection is okay.

Misfire: if remains after cam sensor repl., check for air leaks and/or swap coils/plugs to begin with. Do a search for the common air leak places to check.

Secondary air: possibly the vacuum line to actuate the valve is broken, it is common to have it deteriorate due to exhaust heat. The short circuit code might indicate someone (or something, like a mouse) has been screwing around with the wiring, do an inspection and check for loose connectors.

LDP pump: Does not affect driveability, ignore for now while you fix the major problems.
 

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i bet you have a bad coil. also check out the intake boot, theres a little elbow thats on the boot that could be torn.
 

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what has been done to this car yet so far as maintenance? Sounds like you have coils going and some major vacuum leaks
 

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evap leakage would probably be the DMTL pump, easy fix. located under your car in the rear by thebattery box.
 

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switch out your coils that dosen't have a misfire and have it scanned again and see if the good cylinder has a misfire.then you can figure out if its the coil and which one it is. invest $50-$100 on a obd2 scan tool so you can do it at home and clear the faults to see if they come back.
 

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one thing can cause multiple codes so you may not have all those. one misfire can cause others to misfire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
what has been done to this car yet so far as maintenance? Sounds like you have coils going and some major vacuum leaks
Not much, have only had the car for a month, and 2 of those weeks it was in the shop getting the rear subframe repaired. I've replaced the coolant and "puller" aux fan.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
would be good to know the mileage. for the misfires i'd have to say its the sparkplugs unless u already got them changed recently.

secondary air injector is the one that pumps air into your engine when the engine is cold. perhaps theres a leak somewhere in those pipes? its probably from wear and tear.
i'd also have to guess that your fuel pump is about to go out or some sort. Before mine completely died. it would have rough idles at initial start up too. THen it finally died one night and i had to get it towed and fixed = = wish i knew about it sooner.

someone correct me if im wrong
The car has 171,000 miles. Thanks everyone for their input. I'll start trying stuff tomorrow and will report what I find.
 

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You are describing exactly what my car had, cold start problem, lots of different codes, loss of power, clear the codes, loss of power would go away (for awhile).

Turned out that mine need a new ECU, crazy for a (at the time) 6 year old car with only 55k on it.
 

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You are describing exactly what my car had, cold start problem, lots of different codes, loss of power, clear the codes, loss of power would go away (for awhile).

Turned out that mine need a new ECU, crazy for a (at the time) 6 year old car with only 55k on it.

SAME here. I got so fed up with it took it to a BMW specialist. Told me I need a new ECU. codes clear and BAM it runs perfect... until codes would come back then rough idle/power loss. But recently it hasent been acting up on me at all. :confused: So I guess i'll replace the ecu IF it does it again. cuz when it runs like that its horrible. cant even keep up with traffic.

Im glad to see im not the only one that had this problem. and makes me even more certain that it really is the ECU.

OP it may just be your ECU as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well, today I started with replacing all the spark plugs with the OE NGK 3199 (BKR6QUP). That went very well. Rented a torque wrench and OBDII Scanner from AutoZone (didn't even know they did that) to assist. After the job was done, I cleared any codes and scanned. Came up with P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire and P1470. I then swapped Cylinder 3 & 4 Coils to see what would happen, and low and behold, I then got a P0303 & P1470. By the way, the codes would trip after about 30 seconds of idling. I then figured I needed to replace the bad coil, now in cylinder 3. I then cleared the codes and drove around for about 15 minutes. Got the light pretty much right away and when I checked it after my drive, I got only a P1470 and a P1397. No P1303???? Should I go ahead and replace that coil anyway?

As far as the ride, it did improve, but it's still very rough with about 1/2 power or so on hard accelerations. Still has hiccups and hesitations, though now more noticeable in low RPM's. So, from these codes, where do I go from here? Do you think that a bad coil could cause all this???
 

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with the secondary air injection codes you might want to check for broken vacuum lines and such around the smog pump ( located by the washer fluid reservoir)
also double check the pXXXX codes for the actual BMW meaning on the internet. I have run into auto zones scanner bringing up the correct p code but the definition will be wrong. (bmw has a tendency to use different definitions for codes than the U.S. regulated OBD2 standard) so as an example a auto zone scanner will say p0111 emission small leak detected. bmws definiton for p0111 might be exhaust vanos actuator jam. very different situations. so double check that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Just cleaned my DISA, ICV and throttle body last night and checked all the hoses for cracks or holes (didn't find any). The DISA and ICV were pretty cruddy. ICV had some movement, but much more after cleaning. I figured, if these things weren't causing any of the thrown codes, at least it'd be good PV. Anyway, didn't change anything with how the car runs when I'm driving it. However, as I said before, my RPM's at cold start would bounce between about 700 and 400, and now they only bounce between 700 and 600 (sometimes 500). I guess maybe it helped something.

After this, ran my scanner and found P1470 and P0303 and P0305. Cleared, drove, ran again a couple times and only got P1470 and P0303. Do you think coil 5 is bad since it's been thrown a few times here and there, or do you think it's being cause by coil 3?

My next step I guess is to replace one or both of these coils along with the Exhaust Cam Sensor. We'll see what happens then. Any other thoughts or ideas?

Also, anybody know where the cheapest place is to get this stuff??
 

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99 e46,similar problems...it could be anything,unplug your MAF and see if the LOST POWER and ROUGH IDLE fades away. i changed my plugs and BOSCH coils and all is well now.i had changed my MAF but i put back the old one after doing the coils and plugs.
 

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Well, today I started with replacing all the spark plugs with the OE NGK 3199 (BKR6QUP). That went very well. Rented a torque wrench and OBDII Scanner from AutoZone (didn't even know they did that) to assist. After the job was done, I cleared any codes and scanned. Came up with P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire and P1470. I then swapped Cylinder 3 & 4 Coils to see what would happen, and low and behold, I then got a P0303 & P1470. By the way, the codes would trip after about 30 seconds of idling. I then figured I needed to replace the bad coil, now in cylinder 3. I then cleared the codes and drove around for about 15 minutes. Got the light pretty much right away and when I checked it after my drive, I got only a P1470 and a P1397. No P1303???? Should I go ahead and replace that coil anyway?

As far as the ride, it did improve, but it's still very rough with about 1/2 power or so on hard accelerations. Still has hiccups and hesitations, though now more noticeable in low RPM's. So, from these codes, where do I go from here? Do you think that a bad coil could cause all this???

When you do a spark plug and coil replacement, it is recomended that you replace them all at once.
PS: Just buy and OBDII code reader from bavauto.com. Saved me soo much money already.
 
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