BMW E46 Fanatics Forum banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
That kit doesnt have an OE or OEM tank. Based on my experience and comments on this forum, I would not waste time and money installing anthing else. I can't speak to the other parts but per post 18 some brands are more recommended. Hence my suggestion to use it as a shopping list. Maybe fcp will do upgrades.
 

·
Registered
2004 325i automagic
Joined
·
2,382 Posts
Hence my suggestion to use it as a shopping list. Maybe fcp will do upgrades.
I agree. People should feel free to put their own 'kit' together using either genuine or quality OE or OEM.

Also, those 'kits' aren't cheaper, there is no discount you are losing by substituting different brand water pump or by not buying everything in the 'kit'. FCP Euro doesn't lock you into it, it just adds everything into your shopping car where it can be modified however one wants.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
That kit doesnt have an OE or OEM tank. Based on my experience and comments on this forum, I would not waste time and money installing anthing else. I can't speak to the other parts but per post 18 some brands are more recommended. Hence my suggestion to use it as a shopping list. Maybe fcp will do upgrades.
Good to know, I thought the kits were genuine or oe. I didn’t notice the tank wasn’t an oe when I bought mine or I would have gotten the oe one. That kinda bums me out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2004 325i automagic
Joined
·
2,382 Posts
G48 coolant is the same as Genuine BMW, it6even blue. G05 would work too, but it's clear. NAPA should be able to get both.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Pentosin also has a compatible coolant: PentoFrost NF

It looks identical to the genuine BMW, but it's much more expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Is the red bobber still floating in coolant? How far below the rim is the top of the float roughly?



If the light just came on, top up with distilled water until you can find the right coolant, and also figure out the leak. It makes sense to use just distilled water for now if you will be opening up the system again soon anyways to replace things.

If you haven't already, take a look at the cooling system guide:

Thanks for the cooling system guide link – just what I need to read! (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,083 Posts
The Coolant Light can come on if you're down a few tablespoons. Don't panic.


I'm sorry, but this is not true. The "don't panic" part is true, but the "few tablespoons" part is not. The float that you use to confirm that you have filled sufficiently doesn't know "a few tablespoons." And, it has to be at the bottom of the chamber it fits into and then the low coolant light still won't come on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,083 Posts
IF you seldom check the coolant level, then it's entirely possible that some has simply been consumed over time. Yes, the system is supposed to be closed and none should ever be consumed, but the fact is, the system is not really very closed, and having small amounts be consumed over extended periods of time does not mean you have something to worry about. You can safely top the system with water so you can go home, then get the proper coolant and keep some mixed so you can add it as needed. Coolant has various chemical formulations, and some to not play well with others (they do not mix well) and this can lead to a gooey mess that you would rather not have. I recall a warning about phosphates and nitrites, or some such thing, that you want to avoid mixing together, but I can't find the warning now to quote it for you.
 

·
Registered
E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
Funny, or complicating, thing is almost a year ago while I was just checking around my engine look a good owner I checked the coolant and that measuring “float shaft” just fell off where it attaches to the float and disappeared down into the expansion tank! – I did some forum searching and theres a history of this happening with those shafts over time, the joint corrodes away. This screws up how the float operates and the float riding up and down on the coolant and tripping a kind of electronic trigger is actually what sets off the low coolant warning light. This meant that the expansion tank was fine, my whole coolant system is fine – it’s just that the warning thermometer gizmo was broken. And then the warning light would come on and off on and off irregularly when I was driving around. The only fix is a new expansion tank – not that big or expensive a deal for me working on it myself but still would take ordering parts and time. So I finally got comfortable just ignoring rhe warning light while keeping a good eye on the engine temp both with gauge and sometimes digitally through that nifty hidden series of clicks you can do with the odometer buttton. At one point I do remember thinking So how will I know if I do have an actual leak if I can’t trust the warning light? I kind of put that out of my mind and it turns out that’s exactly what has happened. For some reason my coolant is low! – Now my mission is find my leak.
100% correct. The shaft that is the visual indicator is also attached to the float register for the warning light. Sometimes only the red upper half is recalcitrant, other times it takes the whole bloody thing.

Find the leak.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 BMW 330XI
Joined
·
106 Posts
I had low coolant issues and noticed it was leaking from around the top of the expansion tank. It would only leak sometimes.... I found out after much trial and error that the cooling system was not bled properly by previous owner which was causing the coolant boil over and was leaking from the bleeder screw. Drained coolant, (replaced water pump while I was at it) filled and bled system. Boom, no more leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
I had low coolant issues and noticed it was leaking from around the top of the expansion tank. It would only leak sometimes.... I found out after much trial and error that the cooling system was not bled properly by previous owner which was causing the coolant boil over and was leaking from the bleeder screw. Drained coolant, (replaced water pump while I was at it) filled and bled system. Boom, no more leaks.
I would have expected that to be the cap.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 BMW 330XI
Joined
·
106 Posts
I would have expected that to be the cap.
You're right, I have picture evidence that it was from the cap. I'm an idiot lol. Either way, properly bleeding the system eliminated the mysterious disappearing coolant/leak.
 

·
Registered
E46 '04 330Ci convertible 740K km
Joined
·
589 Posts
I would have expected that to be the cap.
Coolant cap. If it is really old that it cannot properly seal cooling system when engine is hot (I am not talking of valve yet) then car inevitably gonna get overheating issues - losing pressure on hot engine lets coolant boil.
If cap is new and you lose coolant trough valve as it releases excessive pressure, it is also bad sign as temp at which valve activates is 120C if cap is 2.0 Bar calibrated, and 114C for 1.4 Bar cap - which mean you already have overheating issue. So replacing cap is as important as replacing ET.
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top