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So turns out my problem was I did not get the passenger side axel in all the way. Had to pull the wheel and whack it a few times to get it seated properly. Because it was out I lost some fluid causing the burning smell. Put some fluid in the system and all is well.


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I just did this job ( and a slew of others) for the past week, and for me it was a nightmare. The tip I would give to anyone attempting this is that the hardest part was getting the axel to ***8220;snap***8221; into place and reason being is when you pull the old locking ring off the the original axel and put it on the new axel it gets warped and stretched and no longer sits snug to the axel shaft. Well do your best to bend and shape it to fit snug so it***8217;s easier to ***8220;snap***8221; into place. I did this by using two flat heads and squeezing the ring together shaping it to the shaft. I was worried my needle nose players would damage the metal, so I was trying to avoid that method.

I was hung up on that for awhile. Hope the next person has a better experience.
 

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i’m removing the front axles for the first time.. is the slide hammer flange still the best way to push them out?

i also found these videos but i am not sure about the pickle fork andy is using or how similar is the x3 jason is doing.




 

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I use my air chisel to push the axle out of the hub if I can't push it out by hand. To get it out of the dif I use a pry bar and a hammer on the flats of the cv if it's an original axle. I know on one side you can get the pry bar or a screwdriver into the space between the cv and the dif. Tap it in and use it like a wedge to move it far enough out to get a bigger prybar in and pop it out.

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I like the slide hammer flange and whatever will thread into it if the axle is stuck. But I've had pretty good luck with some penetrant and just pulling/pushing. I think I lightly tapped with a mallet and chuck of wood on one that was a little stiff to move. Benefits of dry, not so rusty Colorado!

I'd recommend a ball joint tool rather than a pickle fork if you're not replacing the control arms. I'm pretty sure even if you're super careful the ball joint will be trashed with the fork.

And in general the X3 procedure is the same (ie, free up the hub so you have play to pull the axle out), but it looks like the suspension component arrangement is quite a bit different. I can't say for sure since I've never seen one in person, but definitely looks that way from the videos.

Good luck!
 

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The Harbor freight ball joint tool will work on the xi outer ball joint if it isn't badly rusted. I had one ball joint that needed a pickle fork, sledge hammer and an oxy-acetylene torch. I was replacing the ball joint anyway. IDK if the ball joint tool would have worked, at that time I didn't realize it would have fit.
 

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I'd recommend a ball joint tool rather than a pickle fork if you're not replacing the control arms. I'm pretty sure even if you're super careful the ball joint will be trashed with the fork.
The Harbor freight ball joint tool will work on the xi outer ball joint if it isn't badly rusted. I had one ball joint that needed a pickle fork, sledge hammer and an oxy-acetylene torch. I was replacing the ball joint anyway. IDK if the ball joint tool would have worked, at that time I didn't realize it would have fit.

thanks i am going to try this harbor freight ball joint tool.
 

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Th


yep it fits barely half on the top of the bolt .. but that was enough. hammering according to the video instructions didn't really help. turning with a socket finally popped it free. the ball joint looks damaged now. i think i saw someone selling "lollipops" here as a preassembled replacement?
The Fly sells pre-pressed bushings in different configurations, stock, e36 M3 centered and I think poly. When I used the ball joint tool I'd tighten the nut and hit the knuckle as hard as I could and keep repeating until it popped. The ball joints weren't original to the car and had been installed with anti-seize.
 

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Great write up!

Question:

For the axle puller & slide hammer, will renting the tools from the local autozone work or is it a special order?


Vehicle specs: 2001 BMW 325ci 2dr
You must be working on a RWD car? Just changing the axle or doing the wheel bearing too? The axle puller you pictured will push the axle out of the hub. then you just need room to drop the dif side of the axle down to remove it. Not so hard on the right side but the exhaust is in the way on the left side. The rear axles that I've come across just pushed out by hand.
 

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Wood Composite material Tool Wire Concrete

Easy out


GEtting axle back in:
Use the gnk C-clip take some grease and pack the c clip and center it. That allows it some tension so that the clip sit flush and doesn't get stuck. Be sure to center it so it lines up smooth

Sort of like this video but center it
You dont even need to hammer it you can just give it a good push Use a rubber mallet if you have to hit it.
 
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