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So... I went to swap out my axles today and my passenger side axle was too long. My new axle was 3/16" longer then my dead one on the inside splines. This caused a gap between the seal and the housing. Has anyone experienced this and/ or do I have the wrong one? I am fit to be tied!!,
 

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So... I went to swap out my axles today and my passenger side axle was too long. My new axle was 3/16" longer then my dead one on the inside splines. This caused a gap between the seal and the housing. Has anyone experienced this and/ or do I have the wrong one? I am fit to be tied!!,
Did you solve this?

And what aftermarket part/vendor did you buy/use that sent you the longer axle? Might help folks in the future if you let everyone know who sent you the wrong size axle (assuming that was the problem)

Sucks that it happened to you, but anyone reading this would benefit from not making the same mistake.

Hopefully, you've fixed this and you are back on the road.
 

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So i took this project on yesterday and took me way longer then it shouldve have. This guide is really helpful and was spot on. If you you dont have all the tools likw thw puller and slide hammer like me dont sweat it. Just take the rotor assembly off the strut and use a chisel and hammer to knock the old one out. Would definitely spend the money on the angled 16mm open ended wrench though for the sway bar links. Will make that procces so much faster. I ordered my ac cardon axle from rockauto parts and was a perfect fit. Also make sure it everything is buttoned up nice and tight. Thnx for the guide and hope my tips add to it.
 

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Did you solve this?

And what aftermarket part/vendor did you buy/use that sent you the longer axle? Might help folks in the future if you let everyone know who sent you the wrong size axle (assuming that was the problem)

Sucks that it happened to you, but anyone reading this would benefit from not making the same mistake.

Hopefully, you've fixed this and you are back on the road.

Yes, I was able to work things out. I had a mechanic friend look at it and thought it would be ok. The inner stub was/ is 3/16" longer than the unknown non oe part it replaced. 1000+ miles and all is well.


I bought the axle through Auto Parts International at $86 apiece.
 

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I did both,driver side was hard getting the shaft out of the differential,On the passenger side i tried something and it worked great,and got the axle out in no time,I wish I videoed it,but didn't, so ill try and explain it the best i can.
I put a ratchet strap around it like a lasso,wrapping it around the the piece with the flange where you put the punch or screwdriver, to knock it out,(clean it off and double wrap the strap,(putting the strap through the ring,instead of using the hook) and put the other end with the ratchet on something stationary,parallel to the car,or you could put a 2x4 or 2x2 piece of pine(framing lumber),cut to fit in the wheel well,(use a short strap)and just snug the strap with the ratchet so there is tension on it,and then use a punch or long screw driver,and pop it with a 3lb or 4lb dead blow hammer, or similar. Mine popped out on the 1st blow,I couldn't believe it.The 1st one took a long time,most of it,trying to get the axle out.
Putting the tension on it stopped the clip from acting like a spring,and absorbing the blow, many times, you will see guys in the videos,pounding on it,trying to get it out. it made the job so much easier.
Thanks for the tips even if I have not totally understood how you proceed (my english is not very good at all).

Anyway, I have done the job on front right side once, and due to a f...g hole in the bellow (is that the real name ?), the shaft went noisy. The thing is that we lost the invoice so it is not possible to return it :cry:
So I bought today a new one but I remember that getting the shaft out were a little hard, but for me the hardest was to reinsert it in the differential.

Any tips for that ?

Thx.
Cyril from France
 

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Either way you need to drive them in hard enough to seat the C-clip. I don't think there is a special tool, on the right side (exhaust) I used an air chisel with a curved bit. It wasn't perfect but I could hold the axle with one hand and drive with the other. The bit I used was like the middle one in this ad, but I ground the tip flat so it wouldn't cut, just push.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-Long-Air-Chisel-Set-3-Pc-68276.html
 

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Today I replaced my front axles, both sides hoping to take care of the vibration under acceleration, so now since I bought 04 325xi in June I have replaced 4 rotors, pads, pad sensors, shocks and struts, lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, CSI, and flex disc, now I have to chase down a antifreeze leak.
 

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I'm about to do the drivers side axle AGAIN, less than 2 months after I did tit the first time. rebuilt axle from FCP must have a hairline crack in the inner boot, spraying grease all over my new lower control arm. the lifetime warranty is nice, but that doesn't do anything for my labor and it being such a PITA.
 

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Hi

I have replaced my front axle. While I was in, I also replaced the "Shaft seal with lock ring". To get it out, I made a slide hammer with a threaded shaft. Hop, easy out :)

For the axle, I did not encountered any issue to get it out and in. Very surprised. No need to force.

And now, I dont have any humming noise any more.

Very happy. Thanks all for your tips.
 

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Hi

I have replaced my front axle. While I was in, I also replaced the "Shaft seal with lock ring". To get it out, I made a slide hammer with a threaded shaft. Hop, easy out :)

For the axle, I did not encountered any issue to get it out and in. Very surprised. No need to force.

And now, I dont have any humming noise any more.

Very happy. Thanks all for your tips.
I can't see how a slide hammer would work to get the axle out, I tried to pull my last axle out by yanking on it and the cv joint pulled apart and the stub stayed in the t-case.
 

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