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Discussion Starter #1
Today, my son and I removed the transmission in my 04 325i that I gave him to replace the rear main seal. Halfway threw, I was wishing I just sent it to the dealer for it. Lol. But, my main question is since the starter is sitting there free now because it only bolts to the transmission, how in the world do you get it to hold in place when you put the transmission back in since it's well below the intake with no access to it? If anyone here ever did this, please share your trick.

Thanks alot to everyone here!
 

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I think I reached up from underneath, but I am sure it wasn't fun. I do like to remove/attach the trans to the engine when both are out of the car.

At the risk of mission creep, maybe your car needs new coolant pipes? If you take of the intake manifold you can get easy access to starter and replace pipes, CCV, gaskets, and other goodies.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know my son was able to get his hand up there on it while I was taking the bolts out. Hopefully we'll have good luck with that. My ccv has been bypassed for years with no issues, so I dont even have those lines anymore. I also replaced the intake boot a couple years ago. I really just want to avoid pulling the intake.

I'm 99% sure that my rear main is what was dumping out all that oil. It was about 2 quarts a week, and it all seemed to be coming from the bell housing area. When I pulled the seal, it didnt look blown out. I hope I'm not doing all this for nothing.
 

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2004 330Ci 85k miles
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My ccv has been bypassed for years with no issues, so I dont even have those lines anymore. I also replaced the intake boot a couple years ago. I really just want to avoid pulling the intake.
He means the hard coolant pipes that attach to the engine under the IM.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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Yeah, yeah dats it, let the young un hold it.

Made much easier if you remove the left front wheel and unbolt the lt. FCAB. Now you can get your arm up there. Sort of.
 

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... My ccv has been bypassed for years with no issues, so I dont even have those lines anymore. ... I really just want to avoid pulling the intake.

I'm 99% sure that my rear main is what was dumping out all that oil. It was about 2 quarts a week, and it all seemed to be coming from the bell housing area. When I pulled the seal, it didnt look blown out. I hope I'm not doing all this for nothing.
Fair enough...If you're coolant pipes aren't leaking leave them alone
but the coolant pipes I was referring to are not related to CCV

Also, it's rare to hear of a rear main seal causing a leak of 2 qts a week..

Good Luck...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, we actually got the starter lined up easily and the trans seemed like it was in. I tightened all the bolts with my small battery impact, and the engine was jammed and wouldn't turn. It seems that we didn't have the torque converter all the way home. We'll pull it back out tomorrow and hope for the best that we didn't damage anything. If the front pump is damaged, I'll probably just take it to a shop to be replaced.
 

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Sorry to say, but you almost definitely trashed the pump in your tranny. When bolting the tranny to the car you should never pull the two together using the bolts. They should slide back together. With an automatic when the tranny and engine are mated there should still be a little bit of space between the torque converter and the flex plate. You should be able to rotate the torque converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That is exactly what happened. I will find out tomorrow if it can even be fixed. It appears to be an uncommon transmission in that car, but I found another trans in Atlanta. Looks like I may be taking a road trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Which one do you have? I have a spare GM tranny in my garage, but doubt it's worth it for you.
The green tag says GM ZV. It seems most are a zf. I'm in Maryland, and willing to travel if this trans shop cant fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So, all was finished on the car today, and took it out for a test drive. It waited a bit long to shift to 4th, and when it did, the trans light came on, and it stayed locked in 4th.

The code in the trans is 91 CAN torque reduction.

Any clue what that means? I couldn't find much on it. I am taking it back to the trans shop next week, and hopefully they can figure it out. I am not taking that thing back out of the car.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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That's usually a bad trans. Most but not all of the time.
What's the last 7 of your VIN?
What was the two digit (Now ZV) code on your old unit?
Could be a control unit/software compatibility issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'll have to get all that in a few. The trans was fine. I did the rear main and accidentally broke the front pump putting it in. I sent it to the trans shop to get the pump replaced.
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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I'm painfully aware of what happened along the way. I thought it better to keep quiet. I feel your pain bro.

Get me those details and lets find out about the trans version (2 letter code on the tag) and the compatibility with the control unit.
Often there are minor changes with respect to country, engine displacement, final drive ratio etc. that can muck things up when doing a used tranny swap.
Usually sort-able.
I will need the last 7.
 
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