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Can someone please help. I think my subframe is going, I heard this weird noise coming from the rear of my car as I pulled into my drive way. I've read somewhere that the recall expired in 2010, please tell me this isn't true. I'm freaking out over here, I'm not trying to spend $1,200 or whatever it cost to get it fixed. :banghead:
 

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Best bet is to go to dealer to have them verify it and give you documentation and then call and annoy BMW until they fix it.
It did expire.
 

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Unless your car had a CPO warranty, then the settlement ended in October 2010. If it had an extended warranty, then you have until 1 year after the warranty's expiration to make a claim. Which reminds me, I should probably have mine inspected before November...
 

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Do a search for this. There is a lot of information out there, and more than could ever be put into this single thread. Some of the threads tell you how to determine if you have subframe problems, others tell you how to go about the repair process with BMW, and others tell you how to fix the problem yourself or through a third party repair shop.
 

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Inspect yourself. Advanced/title search...for 'check subframe.'

I did a thread on this based on other threads I'd read. It's easy to see if it protrudes from the bushing. It still could be there under the bushing, but my guess is that if it's not visible, then it's probably something else going on.

Don't freak until you have something to freak about.

Listen to Miles, btw, ftw!
 

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same thing just happened to me, I just bought a 2000 328i with no clue about this common problem about BMW's. I'm already passed the due date as well and don't know what to do. I don't think I can afford getting it fixed
 

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I have a 323 and my subframe broke. Since I have the S-2 Dinan performance kit, it disqualified me from the recall because of the modifications. The total bill was like 5,500+ from what I remember...
 

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I took it to the bmw dealership in portland and after seeing the subframe, they said the didn't have the experience or tools to do the job so they referred me to a shop that they used all the time. I did some calling around and no one even wanted to touch it so I was stuck going with the stealerships referred shop.. PM me and I can tell you how I got it done for wayyy cheaper might not work for everyone but worth a shot
 

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Is the $5500 from the dealer or is it a third party Indy shop
$5500 is going to be through the dealer or dealer approved shop.

you can get it fixed for a lot less with a TMS welded in kit
 

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you do know that when they "inspect" the sub frame all they do is put it on a lift and look at it with a flashlight and say...yep its good when in fact the only way to tell is to take the entire sub frame off of the car which is about a 9 hour job and buffing all of the mounting points to see if there are any cracks where the sub frame bolts to the car, which is hidden by the bushings and everything attached. the only thing they will see is if its severe enough to have spread a good amount. its almost guaranteed that most people on this forum have slight cracks where their sub frame mounts. because of this i just purchased the turnermotorsport reinforcement kit to have them weld in when they change the sub frame bushings with power flex bushings.

the dealership isnt there to help you its there to waste your time and take your money, for instance when i was accelerating i heard a huge bang then the back of my car started bumping up and down and banging when i accelerated. took it to fields bmw in orlando since i was about a mile away, had to pay a mandatory fee for them to look at it since it was towed in, they said it was the differential. well 2 days later when i drove back down to orlando to get my college books out of the car since i forgot them and i saw the car sitting in the exact same spot as it was when the tow truck dropped it off. i told them they were full of sh!t and the car wasnt even looked at because i saw how it was parked with the back left tire on the line in the parking spot and the wheels were turned all the way to the left the same way it was parked when it got dropped off. I told them i want a second opinion and had it towed to PSI about a mile down the road, they looked at it and found out the guibo, and the centerline bearing on the driveshaft were shot along with the bushings on my diff, the diff itself was perfectly fine. i raised hell with bmw and finally got my money back after threatening to sue them if they didnt refund the money.


ever since then i will never trust the stealerships except the one close to me since my friend is a mechanic there and i request him to do all the work and diagnostics.
 

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How do I tell if this "popping" is subframe related. my 2002 325CI started doing what feels like a hesitation/pop/pull that feels like it coincides with gears shifts.

I don't know if this is the tranny or subframe related. I am the original owner and just hit 64k miles.

Car has been baby'd not beaten, I never did anything with the subframe recall inspection.

I'm getting the cracked windshield replaced tomorrow and was considering dropping it by the dealer, but not sure what to ask/tell to have them diagnose this problem or to not worsen it.
 

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you have to look under the car to make sure it's not the subframe, if it was tearing off like mine, you'll definitely see it. This will be my first and last purchase of a bmw, owning this reminded me of how much problems I had with my jeep
 

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can someone help me i have a 03 bmw 325i and when ever i shift from reverse to drive i can hear a clunk and can feel something not sure what it is
 

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can someone help me i have a 03 bmw 325i and when ever i shift from reverse to drive i can hear a clunk and can feel something not sure what it is
The clunk is usually the center support bearing on the driveshaft or the rear differential bushing is cracked. If doing the csb, do the flex disk coupling too (and make sure you know how to manage the details of this job if you're diying.)

...and yes, randomly asking in a thread from years ago won't help much usually. :)

Make your own post.

Also, since I guess you're new-ish from posting like this, I'll suggest realoem.com for all your part numbers.

Enjoy the forum!
 
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