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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this is a hot topic and I've read several threads about this issue.

My car is an '02 330ci with 60k miles on it and was driven by an 80 year old guy, my hopes are the body/subframe connections are in great condition.

Should I:

1) sell the car while it's still in perfect condition or
2) upgrade the chassis before the issue occurs? If I upgrade it, what's the best kit to upgrade the chassis/subframe so I never have to fix the body falling apart.
 

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'03 E46 325i with 6MT & LSD
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Best way to fix it is the redish method. Look it up on their side search redish motorsport. Fantastic group who know what they're doing when it comes to repairing our pos cars. They're based in UK, but are willing to help/guide international customers and the workshops.

Summary is their reinforcement plates with some additional stitch welds and finally the foam injection. As an extra precaution you can add an internal (trunk area) full reinforcement as well, but I can't remember the link for that. Search for it on m3forum.net

In saying that, this would be massive overkill for a mildly Street driven car
 

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Well you wouldn't know if it's in "perfect condition" unless you get underneath and inspect it yourself. It could be cracked and you wouldn't even know it. If you were to upgrade it Turner Motorsport and Redish Motorsport has a kit available. The Turner kit is cheaper (about $120). I installed the turner kit in my 328i and it seems to be holding up fairly well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
KendrickC: I'll check m3forum.net for more information.

GreekYogurtGod: Totally agree about "perfect condition".

I'm an capable of all normal work on a vehicle, but I haven't welded on a car. Hopefully I can figure this out.

Thanks for the responses.
 

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KendrickC: I'll check m3forum.net for more information.

GreekYogurtGod: Totally agree about "perfect condition".

I'm an capable of all normal work on a vehicle, but I haven't welded on a car. Hopefully I can figure this out.

Thanks for the responses.
If anything you could take everything apart yourself and get a mobile welder or a friend who knows how to weld to do it for you. That's what I did. Ended up costing me around $300 with the kit+welder. Took me about 3 days to do it. I think if it's cracked you could actually just epoxy it but i'm not entirely sure. In my case there was a fist size hole in mine because the mounting point broke off so I had no choice but to weld it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If anything you could take everything apart yourself and get a mobile welder or a friend who knows how to weld to do it for you. That's what I did. Ended up costing me around $300 with the kit+welder. Took me about 3 days to do it. I think if it's cracked you could actually just epoxy it but i'm not entirely sure. In my case there was a fist size hole in mine because the mounting point broke off so I had no choice but to weld it.
Is the body aluminum?
 

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It is, and the issue that is that it is too thin, with too few supporting welds to the rest of the body mean that is is very susceptible to fatigue.
 

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2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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your chances that is is failing are low. but i would just inspect it from time to time.
if it does show minor cracks in time then i would do reinforcement plates or the trunk-floor bar that Vince at m3forums is making. catching it early allows you to not have to do as much work.
first stage of preventive work that can be done is the epoxy foam on the left rear crevice on mount side. but if you get a massive tear later on that side the foam makes it much harder to fix because you can't weld with it in there as it's flamable.

i would not sell for worry it might get a cracks later in it's lifespan.
 
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