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R u guys using the stree/performance or track valving?
 

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Wow ... tracking the street set up on full soft that's surprising I can't imagine how stiff the race would b
 

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Wow ... tracking the street set up on full soft that's surprising I can't imagine how stiff the race would b
It's street/track, so it's pretty stiff for a "street" valving. Depending on the track, I went up to 50% stiffness, but my open diff in the rear limits how stiff I can set the rear due to wheelspin coming out of corners.
 

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R u guys using the stree/performance or track valving?
Hey BDUB, I have a set on the way spec'd out with the race dampers and 10K front /12K rear springs. I won't be able to give you feedback of how they perform on the track until this spring, but you're welcome to come take them for a test drive once I get them installed.

Based on my research and discussion with Gary @ BW, the firmer of the 2 street varients is probably the way to go for you.

BTW: Did you get the sunroof installed yet?
 

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Hey BDUB, I have a set on the way spec'd out with the race dampers and 10K front /12K rear springs. I won't be able to give you feedback of how they perform on the track until this spring, but you're welcome to come take them for a test drive once I get them installed.

Based on my research and discussion with Gary @ BW, the firmer of the 2 street varients is probably the way to go for you.

BTW: Did you get the sunroof installed yet?
When I looked on the BW website it looked like there were only two valving options, Street performance and Track. am I missing one that's in between those two?

I installed the sunroof but for some reason it only tilts and does not attempt to slide. I haven't touched it since... I'm hoping to get my car into my garage and do some things this week and get it figured out then...
 

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Please correct me if I'm wrong,.......but these are an Asian made Coilover right ?


Rob43
 

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Please correct me if I'm wrong,.......but these are an Asian made Coilover right ?


Rob43
Yes, that's correct.

I don't know if your question implies value/quality judgement as is too often the case in forum chat. They're definately a price item, but they seem to get a lot a positive reviews and appear to be good value for money when compared to other options like Billy Sport/Koni / H&R springs or OE replacements. They appear to have a greater market presence and longer history in Asia and Australia. Country of origin can often be a good predictor of quality, but I don't see it as reason to automatically dismiss a product, and for my particular application I think the ISC kits make sense.

Over the course of 2015 & 2016, I'll be completing an SE46 build, while also tracking my recently acquired 330 as much as possible. The car has an all original, 14 year old 145K mile suspension and I'm not ready for the expense of the SE46 MCS setup just yet. I expect to get a couple of seasons out of the ISC setup and sell them when I'm ready to upgrade.

I did struggle a bit with the choice between ISC vs. tried and true Billy Sport/H&R race. Ultimately I wanted the flexibility to play with damping, height and alignment, and learn the effects of those adjustments on handling. For under $1K to my door, complete with camber plates, custom specified spring rates and valving, I figured the risk associated with an unknown brand was acceptable. We shall see.
 

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Yes, that's correct.

I don't know if your question implies value/quality judgement as is too often the case in forum chat. They're definately a price item, but they seem to get a lot a positive reviews and appear to be good value for money when compared to other options like Billy Sport/Koni / H&R springs or OE replacements. They appear to have a greater market presence and longer history in Asia and Australia. Country of origin can often be a good predictor of quality, but I don't see it as reason to automatically dismiss a product, and for my particular application I think the ISC kits make sense.

Over the course of 2015 & 2016, I'll be completing an SE46 build, while also tracking my recently acquired 330 as much as possible. The car has an all original, 14 year old 145K mile suspension and I'm not ready for the expense of the SE46 MCS setup just yet. I expect to get a couple of seasons out of the ISC setup and sell them when I'm ready to upgrade.

I did struggle a bit with the choice between ISC vs. tried and true Billy Sport/H&R race. Ultimately I wanted the flexibility to play with damping, height and alignment, and learn the effects of those adjustments on handling. For under $1K to my door, complete with camber plates, custom specified spring rates and valving, I figured the risk associated with an unknown brand was acceptable. We shall see.
:thumbsup:

cant wait to hear your results. Also when you bite the bullet and get some MCS I need to take a ride, I've been drooling over them for years. but like you said, I'm just not quite ready for that yet. Maybe follow suit with what your doing. Get some cheap <$1000 coilovers to hold me over for a couple years then upgrade...
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I wanted to update that I've finally been dialing in the ISC N1 adjustments for VIR. I've run a 2:12.111 and 2:12.307 recently on them using 80% front stiffness and 60% rear stiffness. Those settings really worked well with my set up and I'd probably crank them up more next time I'm on track. These things are seriously amazing bang for buck. Since I track my only car and daily/driver I leave 2/10s on the table in the brakezones and high speed corners so there's more time to be had. Between those just those two laps my hypothetical best is a 2:10.8. They gave me a ton of confidence in the upper esses and here's a video showing minimum/maximum speeds pulled from my aim solo data filmed at Nasa MA Hyperfest 3 weeks ago. It's only 2:42 long.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDZHJcfFJH4
 

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This is Great info.. I used a AIM this past weekend for the 1st time to start checking my times to dial things in a little better and was doing 2.13's & .14's but I'm on stock dampers with HR & springs & street tires.. I think I'm gonna have to pull the trigger on these.. I'm thinking about doing the BW RS in April so this looks like a good segway.. Thx again for sharing..
 

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Still enjoying this setup? How would you rate it for street use? I'm in a hurry to get some coilovers for my build project and this might work well on the touring I'm building if the rear spring rates can be adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
This is Great info.. I used a AIM this past weekend for the 1st time to start checking my times to dial things in a little better and was doing 2.13's & .14's but I'm on stock dampers with HR & springs & street tires.. I think I'm gonna have to pull the trigger on these.. I'm thinking about doing the BW RS in April so this looks like a good segway.. Thx again for sharing..
Definitely do Race School. Sooooo much fun. Practice starts are a blast and the SRE (simulated racing exercise) at the very end is unbelievable. If you attend, I won't be there (I'm instructing at NCCAR) but a bunch of my friends will be there as instructors and racers and I was just hanging out with the chief instructor Jason Crist today (and most weekends). He helped me install the ISC N1s that this write up came from.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Still enjoying this setup? How would you rate it for street use? I'm in a hurry to get some coilovers for my build project and this might work well on the touring I'm building if the rear spring rates can be adjusted.
I have solid fcabs (well a thin delrin insert) so my feedback is insanely more bumpy than oem or poly fcab* That said in Winter time (thank goodness it's over for where I live) it's like a 4.5 out of 10, they get pretty harsh. Now that weather is warmer they're like a 7.5-8 out of 10. On track I'd give them 9 out of 10. Overall for the price they're great. I love them. I think you can order different spring rates when you get them so ask Bimmerworld when you call for what they recommend.
 

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I just received these today and installed the front. I set the camber plates all the way negative and I noticed my driver side only has five hash marks from center where my passenger plate has six from center. They both are set on the 5th hash but the camber angle of my driver side doesn't seem to be as aggressive the other.

Also.. my camber adjusters don't appear to be the same as yours.

Can you confirm this? Because I am thinking I may have the wrong plates, maybe E36 or something.
 

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Some real pics of your plates would help us out.
Yes I know.. sorry, I didn't have any available at the time.

My drivers side is what I am having issues with.. standing behind the car the Camber angle just isn't as aggressive as the passenger.

It's very clear that they do not match the image you posted Jabela

 

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Yes I know.. sorry, I didn't have any available at the time.

My drivers side is what I am having issues with.. standing behind the car the Camber angle just isn't as aggressive as the passenger.

It's very clear that they do not match the image you posted Jabela
Is the length of the slot the same on each plate? It could just be that they changed their marking scale and you happened to get 2 different markings.

As to the camber, many things could affect it. Firstly you'll want to make sure the plates are pushed in until they hit the inner side of the factory camber slots. Then push in your struts on the plate slot.
In a perfect world they'll be even, but BMW put slots on the strut towers so that they could make sure they are even. So a proper alignment is still required.

Also, your camber will look worse if it's not on a level surface.

You may also want to angle your plates like I did (inside and back (ie. towards your stereo)) to gain caster as well. This will give you better dynamic camber, which is great since it causes you to gain camber when you turn (when you need it) without having too much for straight line braking.
 
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