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I also had my car aligned recently.

Right now it's at
0 deg toe all around.
-3 deg front camber
-2.5 deg rear camber

It feels good but haven't had a track day with it yet. However, I think -2.5 rear camber may be too much, especially with an open differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I also had my car aligned recently.

Right now it's at
0 deg toe all around.
-3 deg front camber
-2.5 deg rear camber

It feels good but haven't had a track day with it yet. However, I think -2.5 rear camber may be too much, especially with an open differential.
My run-of-the-mill tire shop couldn't get less than -3 camber up front because they didn't mess with the adjustments up top, they got the rears within factory spec though.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
2:17.3 VIR Full Course

I wanted to give an update about track time. The weekend before Thanksgiving was the Tarheel Chapter's fall HPDE and it was a ton of fun. The A-Group was filled with fast drivers which made passing and being passed everywhere a ton of fun.

My last lap of my last session, after doing a lot of exercises with my instructor and being creative with my vision the previous sessions, I finally got into the 17's and turned a 2:17.3, 1.2 sec faster than my former fastest. I feel like there's more there, particularly if nothing else reducing weight by not having an instructor in the car. I was entering the upper esses going 120mph but slowly scrubbing speed down to 100mph before over-slowing to 85mph for turn 10, definitely something to work on, but the car felt so great on these shocks everywhere.

I've attached two pics from RaceStudio2 of the lap for anyone interested or able to critic with the limited amount of data it provides just being a picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
New times on repaved VIR

I just completed the BMW CCA Club Race School at VIR Thursday and Friday, it was an awesome time and I encourage any upper level drivers to attend one in the future if you want to get into racing or just raise your level of driving awareness around other cars that will be side by side in corners, passing with no point bys, practice race starts, and so much more fun and top notch classroom instruction.

Anyway, to show you that a $950 set of coilovers can handle fast times, here's my new best on VIR Full Course 2:14.10

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BWRUObTHhQ

I have more time to gather in the brake zones on better pads, I was on EBC Blue Stuff for these days and they suck. There's other spots I can gain time too if I can get data to analyze which I didn't have at this event.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I can't edit the instructions now but I wanted to add this for people who bought the kit and haven't done this washer fix on the rear shocks. During 3-wide drills at my recent race school, I started getting really weird hopping in tight right hand corners. Come to find out, there the bottom of the shock bolts to the rear hub, the eyeball that has the bushing in it that the bolt goes thru worked it's way off the bushing and I was riding on the spring alone. Thankfully that didn't result in any damage and was certainly obvious enough to stop the car, get under it and look around. It was evident what happened immediately so I took the factory bolt out, found a washer bigger than the shock body that fit, pressed the bushing back in with a c-clamp, retorqued my bolt and was finished. I just did the other side last week, it hadn't moved at all.

I've attached pictures from the track fix, the otherside is just as explainatory, remove bolt, add washer, retorque and your done. You'll probably need to use a jack under the wheel or brakes to get the suspension back in line for the bolt and the shock to match up.

I let Bimmerworld know and they are appearantly including a pair of washers in the kits they sell now. Appearantly it's a fairly common thing to do on the rear shocks (as common as this kind of thing could be).
 

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I can't edit the instructions now but I wanted to add this for people who bought the kit and haven't done this washer fix on the rear shocks. During 3-wide drills at my recent race school, I started getting really weird hopping in tight right hand corners. Come to find out, there the bottom of the shock bolts to the rear hub, the eyeball that has the bushing in it that the bolt goes thru worked it's way off the bushing and I was riding on the spring alone. Thankfully that didn't result in any damage and was certainly obvious enough to stop the car, get under it and look around. It was evident what happened immediately so I took the factory bolt out, found a washer bigger than the shock body that fit, pressed the bushing back in with a c-clamp, retorqued my bolt and was finished. I just did the other side last week, it hadn't moved at all.

I've attached pictures from the track fix, the otherside is just as explainatory, remove bolt, add washer, retorque and your done. You'll probably need to use a jack under the wheel or brakes to get the suspension back in line for the bolt and the shock to match up.

I let Bimmerworld know and they are appearantly including a pair of washers in the kits they sell now. Appearantly it's a fairly common thing to do on the rear shocks (as common as this kind of thing could be).
Thanks for the info. I haven't had this happen yet, but I have a track weekend coming up so will do ASAP.


On another note, in the winter my suspension became all hard and crashy, as if I had adjusted them to full stiff (they were full soft). It became apparent that in freezing temps the shock fluid is becoming very viscous and basically unbearable. Next winter I'll probably switch back to stock. Every little bump felt like I was running into a curb.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Thanks for the info. I haven't had this happen yet, but I have a track weekend coming up so will do ASAP.


On another note, in the winter my suspension became all hard and crashy, as if I had adjusted them to full stiff (they were full soft). It became apparent that in freezing temps the shock fluid is becoming very viscous and basically unbearable. Next winter I'll probably switch back to stock. Every little bump felt like I was running into a curb.
I didn't notice that severe of a difference. Check with Bimmerworld if that's something they can service under warranty and maybe get a rebuild on the house.
 

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so far i got no complaints on the ISC Coilovers. They ride great, handled well at Buttonwillow Raceway. Best Bang for the buck i have to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
so far i got no complaints on the ISC Coilovers. They ride great, handled well at Buttonwillow Raceway. Best Bang for the buck i have to say.
agreed. I'll be back at VIR this Sunday with PFC 08's to see what I can squeeze out of the brake zones to improve upon my 2:14.10 I ran in April. I'm very impressed with how well this suspension works considering my car weighs 3,550lb with me in it and I'm on the Hankook street tires. I have some conti slicks I'm waiting to put on after I burn thru the Hankooks and want to gut my car wo save weight but it's still my daily... I could see me entering club racing on these shocks, eventually.
 

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agreed. I'll be back at VIR this Sunday with PFC 08's to see what I can squeeze out of the brake zones to improve upon my 2:14.10 I ran in April. I'm very impressed with how well this suspension works considering my car weighs 3,550lb with me in it and I'm on the Hankook street tires. I have some conti slicks I'm waiting to put on after I burn thru the Hankooks and want to gut my car wo save weight but it's still my daily... I could see me entering club racing on these shocks, eventually.

Your fast time of 2:14.10 is the Exact same fastest time I ran in my race car below in my signature, congrats. I know you were really moving ! :thumbsup:


Rob43
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Your fast time of 2:14.10 is the Exact same fastest time I ran in my race car below in my signature, congrats. I know you were really moving ! :thumbsup:


Rob43
Cool! Thanks :) hopefully I break that with the PFC's and eventually get out there on a square set of slicks. I'll have my own AIM Solo this time so I'll get to look at the data and find where I can get more time.
 

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I didn't notice that severe of a difference. Check with Bimmerworld if that's something they can service under warranty and maybe get a rebuild on the house.
I'll give bimmerworld a shout. Could you tell me the size of that washer you used?

Have you ever felt that the minimum stiffness setting is too high? Specifically for the street? I feel like I would want to set it at least 10 more clicks to soft for the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I'll give bimmerworld a shout. Could you tell me the size of that washer you used?

Have you ever felt that the minimum stiffness setting is too high? Specifically for the street? I feel like I would want to set it at least 10 more clicks to soft for the street.
I run full soft up front with 20% stiff in the rear . Make sure you're not riding on the shock, that could make it seem too stiff/jumpy. I just got a PM from someone who adjust their rear spring to the settings I included in the install and their rear shock tube shorter and said it took away all his jumpy-ness.

I don't know what size washer I used, I just took the bolt out and went thru the can of spare washers/bolts I had and found one large enough for the bolt to fit thru flush and the outside diameter large enough to cover the eyeball on the shock body. here's the passenger side photo
 

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I run full soft up front with 20% stiff in the rear . Make sure you're not riding on the shock, that could make it seem too stiff/jumpy. I just got a PM from someone who adjust their rear spring to the settings I included in the install and their rear shock tube shorter and said it took away all his jumpy-ness.

I don't know what size washer I used, I just took the bolt out and went thru the can of spare washers/bolts I had and found one large enough for the bolt to fit thru flush and the outside diameter large enough to cover the eyeball on the shock body. here's the passenger side photo
I'm noticing most of the harshness from the front end. It's hard to tell if it's shock stiffness or if the spring is bottoming out or overextending. There is very little travel in the front end which concerns me.

I think I'm pretty good in the rear end. No harshness or anything. I could probably increase stiffness back there, but I don't want to lose corner out grip with my open diff.

Maybe I'll ask bimmerworld or just try a few washers.
Thanks.
 

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OK so i have recently bought a set of godspeed mono rs coil overs and after a month of having them installed i took the car to get it aligned finally... and they told me they couldn't do it because my right tie rod was broke at the joint connected to the rack and pinion and they think that by me putting in the new suspension caused this... also they said that for some reason my right front strut is trying to pull itself out of the mount? what would cause this? i have a pic to show what i'm talking about.
 

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^ A good thing for you to install would be a Strut Bar that has a 360 degree mounting plate, it will Really support those 3 bolts plus stiffen up your shock towers.


Good luck,
Rob43
 

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I know its been ages since you installed your kit, however I found some sort of issue and i'm not really sure of the answer. You see I am installing a new set of ST coil-overs on my M3, and the problem concerns how the strut body sits in the strut clamp. For my first attempt ,because it just seemed correct, I installed the struts exactly how you did. The strut only seated deep enough to reach the first flare in the shock body. Once installed the strut itself actually did not reach the bottom of the clamp and the clamp would not grip the strut tight enough to keep the whole assembly from falling to the floor. this is when i knew something was wrong. after a bit of online research and inspecting of the scuff marks on the old struts, I've come to the conclusion that the strut actually sits much deeper in the clamp then demonstrated by myself and your DIY. The highest alignment pin (assuming your ISC shocks have an alignment pin, mine had only one as opposed to the OEM 2.) actually sits inside the gap where the ends of the clamp come together. not flush with the top but slightly below, the strut body will actually come out of the bottom of the strut clamp slightly.

Now that being said I'm pretty sure due to adj ride height it may not be an huge factor. I'm not really sure how it would affect the install exactly, the fact that your clamp stayed stuck to the strut without you having to over-torque I assumed is good. But you did mention the car doing some strange things, so it got me thinking.

cheers,
 

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I know its been ages since you installed your kit, however I found some sort of issue and i'm not really sure of the answer. You see I am installing a new set of ST coil-overs on my M3, and the problem concerns how the strut body sits in the strut clamp. For my first attempt ,because it just seemed correct, I installed the struts exactly how you did. The strut only seated deep enough to reach the first flare in the shock body. Once installed the strut itself actually did not reach the bottom of the clamp and the clamp would not grip the strut tight enough to keep the whole assembly from falling to the floor. this is when i knew something was wrong. after a bit of online research and inspecting of the scuff marks on the old struts, I've come to the conclusion that the strut actually sits much deeper in the clamp then demonstrated by myself and your DIY. The highest alignment pin (assuming your ISC shocks have an alignment pin, mine had only one as opposed to the OEM 2.) actually sits inside the gap where the ends of the clamp come together. not flush with the top but slightly below, the strut body will actually come out of the bottom of the strut clamp slightly.

Now that being said I'm pretty sure due to adj ride height it may not be an huge factor. I'm not really sure how it would affect the install exactly, the fact that your clamp stayed stuck to the strut without you having to over-torque I assumed is good. But you did mention the car doing some strange things, so it got me thinking.

cheers,
I'm not sure about your ST coilovers, but there's no way the strut clamp should go higher than the flange/step on the strut.
When I put the base of the strut into the clamp, it was already a snug fit.

If your ST is similar to the ISC strut, then either your strut diameter is too small, or there could be debris in the clamp preventing it from closing properly.

 
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