Hi , Im currently doing some research on my next purchase. I've narrowed it down to Euro CSL headers and Status Gruppe headers. I originally wanted to purchase a set of Agency Power headers until I found out they are discontinued. I wanted to please get some feedback from experience after install and the difference besides pricing. I know it will definitely sound louder with either of the set of headers I decide to purchase. Question : Is it recommended to wrap your set of headers? Thank you.
AlexM3NY
I agree with the use of the factory Euro setup.
Plug and play.
I rather loathe the amount of trapped heat inside the engine bay of a E46 M3. Wrapping is cheap but a nasty job and must be performed fastidiously. Conversely a quality thermal barrier coating (Swain Tech is the best IMO) is the way to go. Most usually applied to the outside.
Here's the reason for the wrap and/or coating: You're installing headers for increased performance. You're not about to drive the car like your grandfather, are you?
Therefore there's going to be elevated heat levels under the hood. Best to capture them some and send the heat further downstream.
We did once run into caveats of copious use of the TBC (thermal barrier coating) on a special car we built decades (still running strong) ago:
E30 M3 S-14 engine. The guy wanted an engine that produced good power and longevity for a track only car.
After much thought we devised a plan. Increased displacement/compression ratio. Larger cams and head porting. Better airbox and upgraded exhaust headers and ALL the way back. Elevated RPM threshold.
In order to control some of the common variables inside the engine/exhaust we used Swain Tech to apply coatings throughout the engine.
Friction reduction coating was applied to the piston skirts and all of the bearings: Cams and bottom end.
TBC was applied to the Piston tops, combustion chamber and the face and inside of the exhaust valves and the exhaust runners in the cylinder head.
The TBC was also applied inside/outside the exhaust header.
This did a few things very well:
Retention of heat for slightly more HP during the combustion process. But more importantly keeping the heat away from transferring into the cooling system via the usual path of heat transferring into the cylinder head cooling jackets.
(No cooling system upgrades were needed!)
Now we had an engine that had MUCH higher exhaust temperatures at the bottom of the collector of the header. Good and bad thing. The fix was to use a higher quality exhaust system built to withstand the increased temperatures. We used Inconel.
Also the use of the friction reduction coatings worked very well.
Did we go over the top, well sure. But this little 2.5L engine runs great and remains reliable over a decade later.
Plug and play.
I rather loathe the amount of trapped heat inside the engine bay of a E46 M3. Wrapping is cheap but a nasty job and must be performed fastidiously. Conversely a quality thermal barrier coating (Swain Tech is the best IMO) is the way to go. Most usually applied to the outside.
Here's the reason for the wrap and/or coating: You're installing headers for increased performance. You're not about to drive the car like your grandfather, are you?
Therefore there's going to be elevated heat levels under the hood. Best to capture them some and send the heat further downstream.
We did once run into caveats of copious use of the TBC (thermal barrier coating) on a special car we built decades (still running strong) ago:
E30 M3 S-14 engine. The guy wanted an engine that produced good power and longevity for a track only car.
After much thought we devised a plan. Increased displacement/compression ratio. Larger cams and head porting. Better airbox and upgraded exhaust headers and ALL the way back. Elevated RPM threshold.
In order to control some of the common variables inside the engine/exhaust we used Swain Tech to apply coatings throughout the engine.
Friction reduction coating was applied to the piston skirts and all of the bearings: Cams and bottom end.
TBC was applied to the Piston tops, combustion chamber and the face and inside of the exhaust valves and the exhaust runners in the cylinder head.
The TBC was also applied inside/outside the exhaust header.
This did a few things very well:
Retention of heat for slightly more HP during the combustion process. But more importantly keeping the heat away from transferring into the cooling system via the usual path of heat transferring into the cylinder head cooling jackets.
(No cooling system upgrades were needed!)
Now we had an engine that had MUCH higher exhaust temperatures at the bottom of the collector of the header. Good and bad thing. The fix was to use a higher quality exhaust system built to withstand the increased temperatures. We used Inconel.
Also the use of the friction reduction coatings worked very well.
Did we go over the top, well sure. But this little 2.5L engine runs great and remains reliable over a decade later.
Euro/CSL over SG any day if the week, getting products from SG is like pulling teeth, their customer service is the WORST ever I can almost guarantee their Chinese made headers make no more power than Euro headers.
IMO you either go Euro or full on Supersprint headers for these cars, there really isn't much in between that is worthwhile. Get the Euros and you'll love it, simple install, no aftermarket fitment issues as well as a more sporty exhaust note (rasp).
Yes your cabin will smell like fuel especially at a stand still without cats so source a Euro section 1 as well if possible, they have gone up quite a bit.
If you insist on aftermarket and don't want to shell out for Supersprint try Megan/AA or another "eBay header", but avoid SG like the place, its ashamed they can't get it together, they do have some nice products such as the SCZA.
IMO you either go Euro or full on Supersprint headers for these cars, there really isn't much in between that is worthwhile. Get the Euros and you'll love it, simple install, no aftermarket fitment issues as well as a more sporty exhaust note (rasp).
Yes your cabin will smell like fuel especially at a stand still without cats so source a Euro section 1 as well if possible, they have gone up quite a bit.
If you insist on aftermarket and don't want to shell out for Supersprint try Megan/AA or another "eBay header", but avoid SG like the place, its ashamed they can't get it together, they do have some nice products such as the SCZA.
I think it's 10hp, 333 vs 343 no?
Euro cars have a different tune as well - not sure how much of it plays a role.
A big chunk of the gains is from the tune, yes. Headers alone make a huge difference, but not so much in the peak #s (let's say 10hp).
It will make a huge difference to your butt dyno. The midrange is greater, besides the gains up top.
Euro cars have a different tune as well - not sure how much of it plays a role.
A big chunk of the gains is from the tune, yes. Headers alone make a huge difference, but not so much in the peak #s (let's say 10hp).
It will make a huge difference to your butt dyno. The midrange is greater, besides the gains up top.
Midrange torque is what this car needs, IMO, more than top end power. Does anyone have overlapping torque curves of US v ROW headers, tuned v stock to compare the power delivery? That would help clarify matters for me. Mine has a tune which I felt bumped the midrange torque. I couldn’t care less about the top of the curve though as I don’t spend much time driving there. But the Torqueless Wonder could use some help below 4500RPM.
maw
maw
Lots of hate toward Status Groupe and it seems like for a good reason, I personally know a few people running their headers and they haven't had any problems with them. It seems like getting the headers is the issue, It looks like they have them in stock so hopefully it won't be an issue. Their headers are made in the USA so probably better then eBay headers. Euro headers are a great option but I wouldn't expect the most power gains.
Where did you guys (and girls) get the Euro headers from?
Also, what did you do about the cats in order to pass emissions?
My CEL is on and it's the cats that are throwing error codes, so I guess after 140K, it's time to replace.
Also, what did you do about the cats in order to pass emissions?
My CEL is on and it's the cats that are throwing error codes, so I guess after 140K, it's time to replace.
eBay.co.uk for euro headers. Try and get a later model set. The later model sets are exactly the same as CSL.
I ended up finding the agency power headers from a guy that never got them installed. So lucked out. Sorry you couldn’t find them. I’m very happy with the outcome, quality was good but minor adjustments to make them fit my installer said. I’m running catless with borla rasp eliminator section 1 and 2 and Eisenmann sport exhaust. Have other upgrades but keeping it simple. Def feel the hidden power when opening up the throttle even without forced air. Next focusing on handling.
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