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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!
I am new to the forum so bear with me!

My newish (2000) 318i has a fault code " 171 Check, fuel supply system (EUIII code: P0170)"

Anyone have any ideas?
There is an intermittent hissing sound when the engine settles from a rev, and a large hiss when I turn the engine off. - Are these noises normal? Or is it an air hose leak causing the noise and the fault code?

I made a video of the noises (you might have to listen closely) -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB4HyjWo2bE

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Welcome!

First, got to say that many here know that air hissing and fault codes are so commonly asked about that there will be hundreds of threads mentioning both...just yours for the asking through 'search' button above...and many seem to gravitate to 'newish' problems not ones that have been discussed to death.

Second...there are some very common air leaks that do cause issues...among the most favorite are the lower air intake boot just off the throttle body...that elbow to the icv gets cracked...many diys on this...trick is getting it off...often if it's original, you need to get to it from under the car...or use a 6 (maybe 5mm) socket to loosen it...then reposition the clamp facing front of engine on the top so you can get to it with a long screwdriver parallel with ground.

Third, not knowing your mileage or what you've done with your car (or if you're not original owner...do you know what previous owners have done)...it's hard to know what all it could be.

Use a section of 1" diameter hose (approx) about 4' long as a stethoscope to isolate location of sound better...get someone else to start car and turn it off and see if you can get to the neighborhood of hiss better.

My CCV hose from VC to CCV valve had a crack and that hissed also...

Any air getting into intake after the MAF will be an issue...engine getting unmetered air and that messes things up.

That's a start and hope it helps. Also, don't get impatient if you can avoid it...out of the 150K members...many here know tons...and many here will also be on other forums...and many here also remember who's been naughty or nice...just like Santa. Be nice and you'll get far more from here than you can imagine...search the archives and you'll get even more. DIY tutorials on everything. I've become really active for about the last year or so and already have probably saved $5000 or more...prolly much more...in labor costs alone...and have a drip free, hiss free, car running like brand new with 200,500 miles on it! Just saying!

Enjoy!

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome!

First, got to say that many here know that air hissing and fault codes are so commonly asked about that there will be hundreds of threads mentioning both...just yours for the asking through 'search' button above...and many seem to gravitate to 'newish' problems not ones that have been discussed to death.

Second...there are some very common air leaks that do cause issues...among the most favorite are the lower air intake boot just off the throttle body...that elbow to the icv gets cracked...many diys on this...trick is getting it off...often if it's original, you need to get to it from under the car...or use a 6 (maybe 5mm) socket to loosen it...then reposition the clamp facing front of engine on the top so you can get to it with a long screwdriver parallel with ground.

Third, not knowing your mileage or what you've done with your car (or if you're not original owner...do you know what previous owners have done)...it's hard to know what all it could be.

Use a section of 1" diameter hose (approx) about 4' long as a stethoscope to isolate location of sound better...get someone else to start car and turn it off and see if you can get to the neighborhood of hiss better.

My CCV hose from VC to CCV valve had a crack and that hissed also...

Any air getting into intake after the MAF will be an issue...engine getting unmetered air and that messes things up.

That's a start and hope it helps. Also, don't get impatient if you can avoid it...out of the 150K members...many here know tons...and many here will also be on other forums...and many here also remember who's been naughty or nice...just like Santa. Be nice and you'll get far more from here than you can imagine...search the archives and you'll get even more. DIY tutorials on everything. I've become really active for about the last year or so and already have probably saved $5000 or more...prolly much more...in labor costs alone...and have a drip free, hiss free, car running like brand new with 200,500 miles on it! Just saying!

Enjoy!

Doug
Thanks!
That hose listening device idea is great!

Sorry if I came across as impatient. (Only have the car a week!!)
 

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Thanks!
That hose listening device idea is great!

Sorry if I came across as impatient. (Only have the car a week!!)
It is...and I give full credit to another fanatic for sharing it...I'm just passing it on.

Yea, impatience doesn't work too well here unless you like getting flamed or incomplete advice.

When things sound wrong they often are and knowing the source goes a long way to not only fixing problems but saving money as well!

So, try to locate and let us know what you think...I'll help as I can and know others will too...we seem to love puzzles and challenges!

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Welcome!

First, got to say that many here know that air hissing and fault codes are so commonly asked about that there will be hundreds of threads mentioning both...just yours for the asking through 'search' button above...and many seem to gravitate to 'newish' problems not ones that have been discussed to death.

Second...there are some very common air leaks that do cause issues...among the most favorite are the lower air intake boot just off the throttle body...that elbow to the icv gets cracked...many diys on this...trick is getting it off...often if it's original, you need to get to it from under the car...or use a 6 (maybe 5mm) socket to loosen it...then reposition the clamp facing front of engine on the top so you can get to it with a long screwdriver parallel with ground.

Third, not knowing your mileage or what you've done with your car (or if you're not original owner...do you know what previous owners have done)...it's hard to know what all it could be.

Use a section of 1" diameter hose (approx) about 4' long as a stethoscope to isolate location of sound better...get someone else to start car and turn it off and see if you can get to the neighborhood of hiss better.

My CCV hose from VC to CCV valve had a crack and that hissed also...

Any air getting into intake after the MAF will be an issue...engine getting unmetered air and that messes things up.

That's a start and hope it helps. Also, don't get impatient if you can avoid it...out of the 150K members...many here know tons...and many here will also be on other forums...and many here also remember who's been naughty or nice...just like Santa. Be nice and you'll get far more from here than you can imagine...search the archives and you'll get even more. DIY tutorials on everything. I've become really active for about the last year or so and already have probably saved $5000 or more...prolly much more...in labor costs alone...and have a drip free, hiss free, car running like brand new with 200,500 miles on it! Just saying!

Enjoy!

Doug
Do you have any ideas on what is causing the big hiss when I turn off my engine at 1:20?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone for the help!! I just changed the crank case breather hose and valve - and when I started the engine the light went off (I didn't even have to reset it!!) I got the hose online at this ebay shop -
http://stores.shop.ebay.ie/C3BMW__W0QQ_sacatZC3BMWQ5fQ5fW0Q51Q51Q5farmrsQ5A1QQ_sidZ105749298QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14?_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=4
The hose was about ***8364;30 all in from the ebay shop and I got the valve at a BMW dealer(I happened to be passing) for ***8364;50!!!!! - trade!!!!

When i took the hose off it was very soft and badly perished -
http://i46.tinypic.com/10xtspc.jpg

And the inside of the hose was disintegrating -
http://i45.tinypic.com/iojcxz.jpg

The valve was quite dirty from all the bits of hose (I broke open the old valve) -
http://i50.tinypic.com/2rx9z09.jpg

And I also found a small tear in the valve rubber as well -
http://i48.tinypic.com/ve7urb.jpg

Hopefully that is the problem solved, now I just need to figure out the AC error code!
 

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Glad you got that part of car fixed...and I'll accept my portion of your thanks!

On the AC...be careful with that. You do not have the right equipment to diagnose or fix many parts of ac...and if you try, you wouldn't be the first to turn a reparable AC into a non-reparable one.

Just because there are diys here, doesn't mean you should try them all. An ac compressor installed is prolly $1500 or so in the states...and there are other parts of the system that can be a problem too. But mostly, for $100, you can get it tested, charged, and lubricated properly and that should be it for you.

There are diys on charging from the cans you get in auto stores, but again, you really need expensive equipment to diagnose. You might get lucky and fix on your own with a simple recharge...but you also might get unlucky and you'll wish that you didn't try to save $80 on the $20 can and then have to pay $1500 or more to stay cool.

A good mechanic is worth his or her weight in gold...that is, if you like your car and are comfortable admitting that you don't know everything! Also, treat them really nice...once you find a good one...respect them, trust them, take their advice, and...my best advice...bring them donuts or the like periodically!

HTH

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Glad you got that part of car fixed...and I'll accept my portion of your thanks!

On the AC...be careful with that. You do not have the right equipment to diagnose or fix many parts of ac...and if you try, you wouldn't be the first to turn a reparable AC into a non-reparable one.

Just because there are diys here, doesn't mean you should try them all. An ac compressor installed is prolly $1500 or so in the states...and there are other parts of the system that can be a problem too. But mostly, for $100, you can get it tested, charged, and lubricated properly and that should be it for you.

There are diys on charging from the cans you get in auto stores, but again, you really need expensive equipment to diagnose. You might get lucky and fix on your own with a simple recharge...but you also might get unlucky and you'll wish that you didn't try to save $80 on the $20 can and then have to pay $1500 or more to stay cool.

A good mechanic is worth his or her weight in gold...that is, if you like your car and are comfortable admitting that you don't know everything! Also, treat them really nice...once you find a good one...respect them, trust them, take their advice, and...my best advice...bring them donuts or the like periodically!

HTH

Doug
Haha! Donuts go a long way!!

About the ACU error code, I found a funny noise in the engine bay that might not be normal, I think it is from a heater control valve - (obviously it only does this when the climate control is on)
I think the part is an electric water valve.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1ytCRTgjKc&feature=player_embedded

Does yours make the same noise?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Glad you got that part of car fixed...and I'll accept my portion of your thanks!

On the AC...be careful with that. You do not have the right equipment to diagnose or fix many parts of ac...and if you try, you wouldn't be the first to turn a reparable AC into a non-reparable one.

Just because there are diys here, doesn't mean you should try them all. An ac compressor installed is prolly $1500 or so in the states...and there are other parts of the system that can be a problem too. But mostly, for $100, you can get it tested, charged, and lubricated properly and that should be it for you.

There are diys on charging from the cans you get in auto stores, but again, you really need expensive equipment to diagnose. You might get lucky and fix on your own with a simple recharge...but you also might get unlucky and you'll wish that you didn't try to save $80 on the $20 can and then have to pay $1500 or more to stay cool.

A good mechanic is worth his or her weight in gold...that is, if you like your car and are comfortable admitting that you don't know everything! Also, treat them really nice...once you find a good one...respect them, trust them, take their advice, and...my best advice...bring them donuts or the like periodically!

HTH

Doug

I just went for a drive, - the light came back on....

Same code - 171.

Oh man....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm after changing the fuel filter -45 euro(!) (It was a big one though)

I followed a DIY thread from this site.

When I popped the hose off the old one petrol sprayed everywhere! - There was loads of back pressure in it, it was like a super soaker! About half a liter sprayed out into a waiting bucket.

I blew through the old and new one to compare them, - the old one was like trying to inflate a tyre, whereas the new one was like blowing through a straw. - Big difference!

The filter must have been the main problem after all!
I took the car out for a spin and it runs great, also, my fuel pump is whisper quiet now! - Brilliant!

That looks like the problem is solved!
(I should wait a while to see if the code comes back, if it does I will post an update)
 

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You figured it out yourself...great. I didn't pick up any hint from you about something related to fuel blockage...glad you did!

I believe that with changing fuel filters, many will pull fuse for pump and turn to pos 2 or something like that to relieve pressure...and then afterwards, prime pump a couple of times...turn to pos 2 for 5 secs...then off...then on again...then off...then start. Just fyi in case it took a while for car to start after fuel filter replacement...next time you'll know. Think it's an 'every two years' replacement item, but seems most leave it alone until it causes trouble.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You figured it out yourself...great. I didn't pick up any hint from you about something related to fuel blockage...glad you did!

I believe that with changing fuel filters, many will pull fuse for pump and turn to pos 2 or something like that to relieve pressure...and then afterwards, prime pump a couple of times...turn to pos 2 for 5 secs...then off...then on again...then off...then start. Just fyi in case it took a while for car to start after fuel filter replacement...next time you'll know. Think it's an 'every two years' replacement item, but seems most leave it alone until it causes trouble.

Doug
I took out fuse 54 (fuel pump I think) and started up the engine, it ran for a while then died off (from lack of fuel i thought) then I just started work.

While browsing through threads looking for a solution, one of the many responses said that "Sometimes the fuel filter can cause that code".
I had asked my mechanic to change all filters etc and give a full check over and service, but after looking at the receipt I saw the fuel filter wasn't done, so I did it myself.
I'm glad I the hoses and valve are changed though, - they were well on the way out.
All of this has been a steep learning curve - I only have the car a few weeks! - I bought the car knowing the faults/codes, - just not exactly what was causing them!
 

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Great thread mate - i have the same car/year/engine... im suffering from having no power from when i first start the car - it just wont go until i give it a chance to warn up... Have you ever had that? By the way - How loud is your car when your first start it in the morning? Does the secondary air compressor come on every time?

Well done for solving your issue by the way!! Im on a mission to get rid of my orange dash light pain!! What can i say, You have inspired me!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Great thread mate - i have the same car/year/engine... im suffering from having no power from when i first start the car - it just wont go until i give it a chance to warn up... Have you ever had that? By the way - How loud is your car when your first start it in the morning? Does the secondary air compressor come on every time?

Well done for solving your issue by the way!! Im on a mission to get rid of my orange dash light pain!! What can i say, You have inspired me!
My light came on a short time later....

Now I have codes 141 125 171!!!

And recently my car is running exactly as you described!!
 

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Thanks for the reply mate... Sorry to here that its back on.

I definitely have the 171 error code. Im going to read them again... but it looks like im going to have to take it in somewhere for some help! Please keep me posted hopefully we have the same problems!

What are the other codes that have come up?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Any update here?

Not really.

The car runs fine since I gave the MAF a proper clean (tutorial on youtube)
But code 171 is still up. (Along with a couple of others)

There is a tapping coming from, what I hope, is a cam follower when the engine is cold, so I am going to try an oil flush next time I change the oil to see if that cures the noise - might even get rid of code 171 (fingers crossed!)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Any update here?
I got the 171 code off - finally! I ended up replacing the MAF with a genuine BOSCH one for about 200 euro (after having tried TWO cheaper inferior makes (MEAT& DORIAN). With the cheaper makes there was a flat spot at about 1500-2500 rpm.

The car has loads of power now.

The tapping is now gone, - I put injector cleaner in the petrol tank and it cleaned out the injectors (carbon deposits etc).

I bought oil flush but haven't used it yet.
 

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Thats great news mate, well done! - thanks for the update, much appreciated... not to rain on your parade but how long has the code been gone? what convinced you that it was the MAF?
 
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