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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, I have an e46 saloon which has some locking/unlocking issues.

The keyfob upon manually trying to lock the car on the door handle will not lock or unlock the car. The keyfob buttons itself does not work too.

But the car does lock/unlock properly from the inside locking button.

When i go for the manual lock/unlcok, it also feels really loose. Theres no resistance.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
 

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Hi, yes ive just tried this but i think my fob battery is dead. Illt ry fixing this and try the program fix again. Thanks
So I assume you are in the US. Does your key unlock the door remotely? Do you have a 2nd key. Note having a 2nd key is common but also the kiss of ... a lot of hassle usually.

Now .. for what I know of your situation.. Is that an OEM diamond BMW key with Trunk, Lock, and unlock buttons all in a row?
In the best scenario you would want to :
1.) Take your Key to an auto store like O'reillys with a key remote tester and test all 3 buttons. Its a simple light. You hold the fob nearby and the light blinks if you are transmitting. Take a working key for a different car with you .. so you can test the tester.

2.) The battery in 3rd party keys is usually a 2032 you can get at the drug store. the cover for that key pops right off using a dime. The BMW key will not easily open. It has a rechargeable battery inside That battery charges when the key is in the ignition. and is in position 2.
Let us know if you have a second key ... and if it works, & how your Auto store test comes out and what kind of key you have, so we know what to do next.
BTW the key will start the car even if the battery is stone dead. I assume you know that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I assume you are in the US. Does your key unlock the door remotely? Do you have a 2nd key. Note having a 2nd key is common but also the kiss of ... a lot of hassle usually.

Now .. for what I know of your situation.. Is that an OEM diamond BMW key with Trunk, Lock, and unlock buttons all in a row?
In the best scenario you would want to :
1.) Take your Key to an auto store like O'reillys with a key remote tester and test all 3 buttons. Its a simple light. You hold the fob nearby and the light blinks if you are transmitting. Take a working key for a different car with you .. so you can test the tester.

2.) The battery in 3rd party keys is usually a 2032 you can get at the drug store. the cover for that key pops right off using a dime. The BMW key will not easily open. It has a rechargeable battery inside That battery charges when the key is in the ignition. and is in position 2.
Let us know if you have a second key ... and if it works, & how your Auto store test comes out and what kind of key you have, so we know what to do next.
BTW the key will start the car even if the battery is stone dead. I assume you know that.
Thanks for replying.

No im from the UK.

I believe we dont have a second key for the car, but yes it is a diamond shape key. Lock, unlock, boot (trunk) which happens to lock and unlock fine manually.

Ill try both points and see what happens next 😁. I did some research too, and i suspect it might be the door lock mechanism which is faulty. This is because when i go for the lock/unlock, the mechanism feels loose.

Also, yes the car switches on fine with the battery dead in the fob.

Thanks
 

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If the locking button in the car works but your key doesnt, then it can’t be the door lock mechanism. If none of your key buttons work then I’d be thinking its a dead battery.

The key turning the car on is a separate system, which does not need battery power from the key
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If the locking button in the car works but your key doesnt, then it can’t be the door lock mechanism. If none of your key buttons work then I’d be thinking its a dead battery.

The key turning the car on is a separate system, which does not need battery power from the key
Ahh okay. The key doesnt manually lock the car in the door handle too. Would that also be a symptom of a dead key fob battery?

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Ahh okay. The key doesnt manually lock the car in the door handle too. Would that also be a symptom of a dead key fob battery?

Thanks
No. That would be a symptom of a broken link. Its a flimsy little piece of metal behind your lock. They all break. Good news here: You can remove that barrel by itself difficult actuator assembly behind it there's a video on fanatics (or on youtube?) its a single hex bolt holding it in above the latching mechanism & facing the back of the car. I am assuming the key does turn when you insert and turn it, correct ?

Have you checked the hall effect sensor .. which is embedded into the actuator box unfortunately.

Usually my first question to you would be similar to this test:
Would you mind doing this little test? I'm in a hurry this moment .. but it tells us if you hall effect devices are all working... they convey door open status to the GM5.

a.) Unlock all doors and close open doors 1 at a time. Does the interior light come on when you open the door?
After noting .. close the door, wait for interior light to go dark then try the next door.


b.) Kindly remind me if the key fob does unlock the trunk?
c.) Does the trunk button by your knee unlock the trunk?
d.) Does the trunk unlock button over your license plate unlock the trunk?
At the moment I think your controller believes the door is already locked. But we need to eliminate your FOB as source of trouble. Does it open the trunk?

Most people start using the mechanical key lock when the FOB goes on the blink. The little piece of metal fails quickly after that begins. I've heard older fanatics say BMW designed that as urgent entry more than a daily lock/unlock. From my OWN experience I believe that to be true.

Inside the actuator are 2 toy motors one for single lock, 1 for double lock. The mechanical key lock does not use those... all other methods do. I can send you a photo of one I opened once I get back from airport tonight.

Please take this opportunity to remove that barrel lock and see if that metal extender is broken. 90% that is it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No. That would be a symptom of a broken link. Its a flimsy little piece of metal behind your lock. They all break. Good news here: You can remove that barrel by itself difficult actuator assembly behind it there's a video on fanatics (or on youtube?) its a single hex bolt holding it in above the latching mechanism & facing the back of the car. I am assuming the key does turn when you insert and turn it, correct ?

Have you checked the hall effect sensor .. which is embedded into the actuator box unfortunately.

Usually my first question to you would be similar to this test:
Would you mind doing this little test? I'm in a hurry this moment .. but it tells us if you hall effect devices are all working... they convey door open status to the GM5.

a.) Unlock all doors and close open doors 1 at a time. Does the interior light come on when you open the door?
After noting .. close the door, wait for interior light to go dark then try the next door.


b.) Kindly remind me if the key fob does unlock the trunk?
c.) Does the trunk button by your knee unlock the trunk?
d.) Does the trunk unlock button over your license plate unlock the trunk?
At the moment I think your controller believes the door is already locked. But we need to eliminate your FOB as source of trouble. Does it open the trunk?

Most people start using the mechanical key lock when the FOB goes on the blink. The little piece of metal fails quickly after that begins. I've heard older fanatics say BMW designed that as urgent entry more than a daily lock/unlock. From my OWN experience I believe that to be true.

Inside the actuator are 2 toy motors one for single lock, 1 for double lock. The mechanical key lock does not use those... all other methods do. I can send you a photo of one I opened once I get back from airport tonight.

Please take this opportunity to remove that barrel lock and see if that metal extender is broken. 90% that is it.
Hi

The interior lights turns on and off after opening all doors and closing yes

The fob buttons itself dont open the trunk, but manually yes it works fine. By turning the key in the trunk keyhole.

The trunk button above the license plate opens the trunk easily too.

The key is able to manually lock/unlocj the trunk too.

The key does turn btw, when you put it into the door handle. Just very loosely.

Sure, please send the pic when you can 😁

Thanks
 

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Here's what you need to get the barrel out ... The way it works is .. you turn the Allen a few times, then pull on the door handle a little (I tried not to pry with mine .. I just kind of wiggled it a little) . You do that a whiel and out it comes. He's showing your the little tail I mentioned. In my case the actual casting was fractured. There on the "door" end. Its been a while so I don't recal how I handled it. I may have brazed it .. or replaced it with a casting from Salvage .. but of course I stayed with the barrel that fit my key.
Looking a the barrel (quick fanatics photos )
Video Jason at Shoplife TV .. at 6:00 he pulls off the Barrel

One more thing .. If you do decide to remove the door panel. There's a sound deadener sheet in there. the stuff sticking it on will ruin your pants and anything it touches. it will not wash out. BTQ be gentle removing the panel. If you manage it well .. the same nasty Beutynol sterate (something like that) is completely reuseable.
 
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