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2004 330i
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

My 2004 330i <80k km slid and hit a curb, got some major damage to the suspension, steering, and wheels, nothing really to the body. Repair is coming in over $7k Canadian, which is more than I paid for the thing. Major cost being steering rack with tie rod ends costing nearly $2.5k, other things being tie rods, control arms, and cross member. Total front cost being around $5k. Rear cost being cost being $2k. Worthwhile to go for the repair or put the money towards another car?

If you suggest going for the repair. Any alternatives to the OEM steering rack? Should I go back to OEM suspension or any alternatives you would recommend?

Thanks in advance
 

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2003/08 330i
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19 Posts
Personally, I'd do the work myself and keep the vehicle, assuming there's no frame damage.

I bought an e46, because while there are cars with better power to weight ratios and straight line acceleration, the e46 is one of the last good examples a drivers car: not heavy, focus on dynamics, lots of bits available to repair/upgrade and relatively easy to work on. A newer car will have less maintenance and cost less to own, but it won't be as enjoyable for my type of driving. An older car will be more visceral, but will also be a bit more of a deathtrap in a crash.

I bought the e46 and continue to work on it because it was the best balance of fun, projecting and safety for my type of driving. If there's a newer, lower maintenance, more enjoyable car for your driving style, go for that.
 

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Repair is coming in over $7k Canadian, which is more than I paid for the thing.

Major cost being steering rack with tie rod ends costing nearly $2.5k other things being tie rods, control arms and cross member.... Total front cost being around $5k.
Rear cost being cost being $2k.
Get all these parts used but good form junkyard ebay, then the total will be a fraction of that cost.
 

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2003 330cic, 2003 325iT
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Rack is $60 at a pick n pull. $150 on eBay. Tie rod ends from FCP Euro. Control arms and bushings are $500.
Rear end could be as simple as the lower control arms which are less than $100
 

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I would recommend the front wheel bearing on the impact side, as well. Probably the whole knuckle. Again, used parts are your friend here and none of this is difficult to replace.
 

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Before you do anything I'd make sure 100% that none of the suspension mounting points got moved out of spec. Even a few mm will make getting the suspension geometry align difficult to impossible.

Otherwise, buy OE quality parts from Lemforder, Meyle etc and fit them yourself. Being in the USA then you should be able to get it back on the road for less than a few grand ;)
 

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First things first, how hard a hit was it, personally I wouldn't spend a penny until I'd had the chassis/frame checked out by someone that really knows what they are looking for.

What initially might look like superficial damage can hide all sorts of issues and the possibility of it never driving right again and on top of that when the time comes to sell it on and you don't declare it can also open a whole another can of worms.

Work with the head and not as many people do the heart.
 

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First things first, how hard a hit was it, personally I wouldn't spend a penny until I'd had the chassis/frame checked out by someone that really knows what they are looking for.

What initially might look like superficial damage can hide all sorts of issues and the possibility of it never driving right again and on top of that when the time comes to sell it on and you don't declare it can also open a whole another can of worms.

Work with the head and not as many people do the heart.
This is a valid point. The suspension components are designed to absorb the impact so it hopefully doesn't damage the frame.
 

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OEM ///PLUS
2003 M3 6MT Slicktop
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23,971 Posts
My 2004 330i <80k km slid and hit a curb, got some major damage to the suspension, steering, and wheels, nothing really to the body.
as mentioned before buying replaced parts(if you DIY) be sure the chassis points aren’t damaged/moved.

now is the estimate the amount you’re getting from insurance to fix? or you fixing it out of pocket?
 

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E30M3 Race F10 535 R1150Rt M Coupe
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This is a valid point. The suspension components are designed to absorb the impact so it hopefully doesn't damage the frame.
BTW, BMWs are frameless and unibody.
There's front and rear subframes, which are somewhat easily replaceable.

The real fear is when mounting points like fcab and rcab move. Now there's big damage.
 

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2004 330i
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Before you do anything I'd make sure 100% that none of the suspension mounting points got moved out of spec. Even a few mm will make getting the suspension geometry align difficult to impossible.

Otherwise, buy OE quality parts from Lemforder, Meyle etc and fit them yourself. Being in the USA then you should be able to get it back on the road for less than a few grand ;)
Ok I will ask the shop about the mounting points.
 

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2004 330i
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
First things first, how hard a hit was it, personally I wouldn't spend a penny until I'd had the chassis/frame checked out by someone that really knows what they are looking for.

What initially might look like superficial damage can hide all sorts of issues and the possibility of it never driving right again and on top of that when the time comes to sell it on and you don't declare it can also open a whole another can of worms.

Work with the head and not as many people do the heart.
😅 Well hmm it was going fairly quick, it actually spun around and it kept sliding until it met the curb, the side curtain actually went off...😭

I have taken it to a BMW specialty shop in the area with good reviews....so hoping they know what they are doing.

I'll ask about the chassis/frame. There inspection does say they might find other issues once they start removing stuff.

I had no intention of selling so definitely not thinking about that now, unfortunate due to the relatively low kms on it.
 

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2004 330i
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
as mentioned before buying replaced parts(if you DIY) be sure the chassis points aren’t damaged/moved.

now is the estimate the amount you’re getting from insurance to fix? or you fixing it out of pocket?
Unfortunately, I don't have access to a garage currently to DIY at the moment but in a month or so I will...so if I don't get it done at the shop I'll attempt to diy it.

It will be out of pocket, didn't have more than basic coverage on it.
 
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